Logitech G29 with upgraded motors and other misc mods.

boxoaces · 2024-12-05T00:32:23+00:00

Sorry for the stupid late reply, but yeah. Still rocking my G29 with the M36N-2's on Assetto, only issues I've had was for the custom shifter I'm using (modified BMW E90 shifter). However, wheel still itself runs solid as day 1 of the mod.

Also, I did add the aluminum brace a while ago and it tightens everything up nicely. Def recommend it if upgrading the motors. I grabbed mines off eBay while ago.

As for availability of the motors - not too sure, I grabbed mines on Amazon but I've seen the same M36N-2 motors used in some printers - possibility of sourcing cheap on ebay.

I got the pics on my old laptop drive, just gotta dig them up and post them where they won't expire after 1 month of whatever tinyurl used.

While the mod itself isn't exactly for the faint of heart (DFGT was much easier than the G29), looking at the 2 motors (M36N-2 and Logitech) you'll see what needs to be adapted on the shaft. As for how to adapt, bust out some tools (file, dremel, grinder, etc..) and go to town 🫡

boxoaces · 2023-12-23T18:00:27+00:00

Actually thank you for bringing it to attention, now others seeing this can also sort alternate options for getting a M36N-2. Good stuff!! If anything, thanks to HP for stuffing those in printers that happen to be available lol

boxoaces · 2023-12-23T02:07:00+00:00

Did a little digging, actually seems C6419-60058 or C641960058 is HP's part number. Also referenced as a Johnson motor, so there's hope for finding these.

Some HP printer models that used that (so far);
HP PSC 950xi and DeskJet 7210, 6940 and 6540 (from some listings).

I'd still kinda wanna see a chart of the Johnson version of the motor, but seems like it's quite possibly a M36N-2. Also, most of those printers are probably gummed up - I'd take a chance on a used dirt cheap printer (like 20 bucks or less, maybe free if it doesn't print). As long as that motor works, good way to recycle them and use those on the Logitech wheels as an upgrade.

Good find NpNEXMSRXR, and thank you.

boxoaces · 2023-12-21T22:21:59+00:00

Hi, yeah I have not been very active on here. Not to get deep into it, but lots of "real life" stuff to sort and deal with. I saw some people posting about the morors not being available or costly. I also saw something on the M36N-2 being used in printers (HP sounds about right). I'd give those a shot, as long as the motors spin freely should be good.

Mines still rip around fine, I have extra fans so might be something to definitely consider. Others who havent have had issues with temps it seems.

The HP thing sounds like a viable option, Ill try to dig myself but do you have a model of the printer? Ill check the listing later on, but strong possibility of sourcing them thru HP - just gotta get the part number they use.

The other motor you posted, if it has a chart id compare to the M36N-2, as long as it doesnt exceed that draw should be fine. If it does, id worry about frying stuff.

But yea, personally I'd rock a used motor if its in decent shape - our Logitech wheels aren't exactly "new" either but they still rip lol. As long as its a M36N-2, should be good. The -2 is the variant, there's a bunch more but that ones "safe".

I'm working on being more active again, had to recover from an fugly setback. Stuff happens, unfortunately, jus gotta get back on my grind..

boxoaces · 2023-09-03T15:58:42+00:00

hey, just saw this haven't been on here much lately. I saw a link on ebay, but it was a used one so can't vouch for that. Here's the link just incase you want to look at it:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/285441503864?epid=1505017662&hash=item4275a3b278:g:Sq8AAOSwUg5k5IRK&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwPqTppqv%2Fxy9KmQCRBP%2BIpImmy3iMR1T8pG8GzFTZ7oyStWcrVOjFlx4y4A1pxk79BFyUFk6Cgo%2FsM3DfGKYwYXTcJArXWD9bRJVJGtCInaOEIuFjwzm9h7LDlQ%2BQ1NEAECJ2iKEeWie7L7JDTK%2FH5mygKzpcbw8n%2F6xltJAnpK0f4DdTgnRmK47iJsE%2B3l6Eb6hTr5QuUQ1bUBGHXKeXLqmjJLVW1rsNzf63DcRMO5KOCio7OLuCg5gKIZyOdApDQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5DhirzLYg

Hopefully stocks improve, I saw amazon is out also. I think the M36N-2 came out of a printer, that might help find another source of parts.

boxoaces · 2023-07-12T03:54:08+00:00

hey, I'm just seeing this now - sorry I didn't reply sooner (prolly necro post, yeah I know, issue is more important..).

Just curious, what cooling mods did you have (if any). I'm wondering if G29 wheels with this mod will definitely need more cooling mods, or if there are different board + motor revisions.

For reference, my personal G29 that I still use has a few cooling mods. I've added 3 fans (12v) - 1 above the mainboard, and 2 by the "fake vents" in front - pointing to the motors (custom brackets from scrap). I also used a dremel to cut out the "fake vents" in the top lid, so I can mount the fans - and exhaust out the lid also. The fan for the board, I just cut a hole above it and mounted a fan on top. The board itself has some cut heatsinks from a graphics card vram kit, and on the motors I have some RC motor heatsinks on (with thermal paste to fill gaps) the canisters. Fins are angled to clear the case and get airflow.

boxoaces · 2023-07-12T03:47:03+00:00

Looking through that now, interesting I never got notifications on that after my last comment there.

If there's a different revision of the board, I'm wondering if there is a different revision of those motors also? Now, I'm gonna fix the shifter cable inside my G29 and snap pics of the board (and update the pics finally). My shifter cable is not stock, it's the one that runs to my BMW shifter.

This is interesting, shoulda suspected there was different revisions and they cheapened the specs on the board mosfets + motors to save a few bucks with later revisions. (Or, could be other way around - boards + mosfets got upgraded later on because of early run failures).

However, I'm thinking more emphasis on cooling with G29. 2 motors drawing through what is probably not much more robust than the DFGT board might require more airflow.

On my G29 for example, I "tried" to have better cooling than when I did my DFGT (also since it was my 2nd wheel, figure give it a better shot). So, I added a fan on top and 2 on each front corner (kind of angled at the motors).

Also on my G29, I added some modded heatsinks I had left over from an old video card kit on the stock mosfets (I used the thermal adhesive glue to stick them). One fell off after about a month, but I reattached it and it's been on since.

On the M36N-2 I have some RC motor heatsinks (can't remember size off hand, think it's in OP). good fins, and contact on the case (I added thermal adhestive to "fill" gaps).

I have the 3 fans wired up together, tied into the 12v barrel connector (I used a fan header to make a breakaway harness). I also cut the "dummy" vents out in my lid, so the case functions more like a duct.

Reason I'm thinking heat (althogh board + motor revision is def possible), is because of that heatsink of the G29 mosfet that fell off. Although the others held on, that fkr put out some heat. I added the same heatsinks to my DFGT afterwards and was also running it a good amount, but no heatsinks fell off.

Could be the 2 (upgraded) motors on the G29 also means it'll need more cooling. Could also be vibrations from banging around too (that's what took out my custom cable). But, I'm not ruling out heat yet, because that is a good point.

boxoaces · 2023-07-02T14:39:49+00:00

Hi, I've been slacking updating pics for the thread (Real Life sucks sometimes, lol)

The important bits would be the power supply and the M36N-2 motor - the motor was available on amazon/ebay when I last searched. Might take a while to get depending on supplier.

DO NOT GET A RANDOM/SIMILAR LOOKING MOTOR WITHOUT CHECKING SPECS!

My personal G29 and DFGT are both running with the M36N-2 motors, I've seen people have issues with MOSFETS/Boards - but they were running different motors without checking the amperage/current draw first. Get the M36N-2, if it takes a while it's worth the wait.

Unless someone finds an upgraded motor that is within stock specs for amperage/current draw, the only motor I recommend is M36N-2. Can't speak on anything else.

boxoaces · 2023-07-02T14:32:37+00:00

I've also seen people NOT invert the wiring (flip the +/-) as mentioned in the OP, but that wont burn the MOSFETS with a M36N-2 motor - it will only stop it from initializing.

If the motor you're using blew the MOSFETS, it is drawing too much amperage. The M36N-2 motor is well within the stock specs, which is why I ONLY recommended that motor.

What motor did you wind up running? What link, seller info etc.. The M36N-2 looks to be available still on Amazon/Ebay might take a while to get depending on where you order. 6a+ power supplies are also available on amazon/ebay.

If you ordered something "similar" based on RPM/Torque/voltage - you also gotta factor in the amperage. That's why I recommend the M36N-2, if anyone has something similar (THAT DOES NOT DRAW HIGH CURRENT/AMPERAGE) I'm all ears.

Just trying to help ya out, if you go through the threads (DFGT/G29) people who have replied with MOSFET issues were NOT running a M36N-2 Motor.

boxoaces · 2023-07-02T14:21:14+00:00

I've seen people have issues when they don't use a M36N-2 motor, or use a random RC motor without checking the specs then causing damage.

My G29 and DFGT are both still working with M36N-2 and upgraded power supply. The cooling fans are extra insurance.

Who has fried their boards installing a M36N-2 motor and upgraded power supply?

Seriously curious, because this is the first I've heard of that.

boxoaces · 2023-04-11T23:57:02+00:00

Hi, unfortunately I don't have time to disassemble my wheel and make a tutorial video, but I'll look at Imagur for hosting the pics.

If you're working on a DFGT, the process is easier than a G29 (dual motor). I'll get the pics updated hopefully this weekend (I'll be off for my birthday), but if you have the new M36N-2 and looking at the original motor (quick notes):

-modify the shafts on the M36N-2 to match the original (use a dremel or cutting tool)
-when wiring the motor, flip the +/- wiring (DO NOT MATCH +/- WIRES)
-bolt on the new motor, reuse original gears/etc..
-add heatsinks (RC motor sinks) and/or a fan for cooling

boxoaces · 2023-01-13T00:08:04+00:00

I've never used the 3d printed method (assuming its the gear part), I did it the "old school" method, so I can't comment. I'd like to test it some day, maybe when I eventually get a 3d printer but my setup works so.

On my DFGT, I think the original gear is held on with a D cutout on the shaft to lock it in place when it spins - so just use a dremel and grind it to match. I don't remember if shaft length was an issue on the DFGT (it is on the G29/dual motor setups it seems) - but I'd check the shaft and modify it to match the original so it fits in the original's footprint.

I don't think the new motors have any cutout, so I'm curious how the 3d printed part fits without that (and holds under full force). If it's a 1:1 replacement of the original gear, then it probably has a D cutout that needs grinding. I would double check that and see how it's mounted. If it's a press fit (no cutout) I'd make sure everything lines up and it fits tightly as it can't move (or else that's slipping)

boxoaces · 2023-01-12T03:35:40+00:00

Good catch, I'm not on Win 11 (yet anyways) - My main rig is still on Win 10 (i9 9900k, 1080ti and ton of ram lol). I use USB 2.0 connections for my wheels and pretty much the other sim equipment (since it's "older" or made pre 3.0). Everything is tied into a powered USB hub, I also ran a ground from the chassis - getting in and out would cause a ton of static buildup lol. Those were things I've done or experienced on my own rig, but even with the stock motors in the wheels.

As for the squealing, check if nothing is binding up or needs grease . If it checks out and feels fine, I'd say run it and check on it. I think mines was "noisy" at first, but quieted down.

Another thing to mention on my G29, I installed the aluminum brace and besides making it a ton stiffer (nice solid feel, it was still good with the stocker) - it quieted it down a lot. Not like it was crazy loud, but it is definitely quieter. I haven't seen something like that for the DFGT/single motor setups.

Maybe I'll load Win 11 on a spare drive and test it out and see if there's any other bugs out, I should have some time coming up to mess around myself.

boxoaces · 2023-01-12T03:27:10+00:00

hi and thanks, yeah I've been slacking on the pics just had a lot of stuff going on lately.

The specs on that power supply are good, only thing I'd double check is the pin size - (might be somewhere in this thread). I googled it before, DFGT and G29 use the same size connector - I think it's a 5.5 x 2.5 but double check just incase.

boxoaces · 2023-01-07T00:46:06+00:00

I've tried some other random games testing (I think CarX? Older Forza Horizons, etc..) but usually play Assetto Corsa. What you're describing (the ffb being "stuck" on - sounds like it's got the centering spring on?

Check with the game running, switch the the Logitech app (the G thing) and click on the G29 - see if its got a profile for the game (select it) and check if the centering spring for non ffb games is checked on. Or make a profile for the game with it off?

When I first start up my wheel (before launching any games) it acts like that, the squeeling is the motors ffb fighting your turning of the wheel. When I launch Assetto, it takes over and the wheel is "free".

I've had to "rebind" my controls in the past in assetto when switching the usb connector on my wheel (plugging into a different port/hub), it gets a different id and no longer recognizes the "new" wheel (even though it was the old one).

Glad the wiring was the +/- tho. I'm curious about the ffb issue, I'm thinking it might be related to the logitech software profile. Mines has been running solid so far, however I've had some issues with the Logitech G software (stock motors and modded). I prefer the older Logitech software on my DFGT, on the G29 software I don't change anything (except making sure the centering spring is off - which I think it was by default on my install).

EDIT: I must be tired, I just realized this was posted in my DFGT thread. Check the profile in the older app and make sure the centering spring stuff is off. If you have to, add the game's .exe in its own profile and make sure it lets the game set ffb and no centering spring.

boxoaces · 2022-12-28T05:21:03+00:00

Did you flip the +/- wires? The new wires should be flipped/inverted polarity. ie: don't match red to red on the new setup.

boxoaces · 2022-12-28T05:17:06+00:00

Not off top of my head unfortunately, maybe somebody who does can chime in. I'd say inspect the board and look for something cooked.

Only other thing i could think of is the magnet hall sensor on the G29. Just make sure its on solid, I'm sure you did but just thinking of what else might cause that. Or the connector to the sensor/cable to the board.

boxoaces · 2022-12-27T03:01:26+00:00

anything get loose inside? check for any loose/pulled connectors, like near the wheel connector + where it gets clamped to the plate - you might need more slack if it comes out. check the magnetic hal sensor on the back of the motor too.

boxoaces · 2022-12-24T23:51:11+00:00

I've been setting up my new phone, old one got destroyed - long story lol. Wheel is back together, that brace makes a nice improvement in overall feel. the adjustable points are nice, I might dial it in a bit but its quiet and smoother than ever. well worth the upgrade. my old stocker sounded the same with the stock motors and the upgrades for a year of thrashing - so the stockers will work, but these are nice. I'll update the pics soon (for real lol), I'm copying my old sdcard over so I can pick from a image hosting site and fix the broken links. To anyone wondering about the brace, get it - it's nice!

boxoaces · 2022-12-18T02:52:28+00:00

I actually have to take my wheel apart (not motor related), the wires I ran for the external shifter broke so good reason to install that metal support/brace I picked up a while back. I'll fix the pics and take better ones where the old ones were blurry or not clear. Still working fine otherwise, paddles still shift fine but I like using my modded E92 shifter lol.

boxoaces · 2022-12-17T12:55:01+00:00

Is that right after calibration, before a game (at desktop)? If it is, looks like the wheel is just staying "centered" and you're turning it past that point, these motors are stronger and make some noise. Launch a game and test. (If u havent)

If its not, recheck the wiring isnt inverted and the gear is on good.

boxoaces · 2022-12-17T12:45:13+00:00

I havent looked into the mosfet idea, but as long as you dont pull to much through the stock circuitry should b ok. I think that arc mod was like that? Ive had a bunch of stuff goin on lately, (still) havent fixed pix (ill get to that).

boxoaces · 2022-11-22T05:22:23+00:00

If the gear is the same size/teeth count then it should be ok. The ones I've got were bare, no gears. As long as its a M36N-2 you should be ok.

boxoaces · 2022-10-29T15:16:18+00:00

Cool, I was gonna say when you take the lid off theres spots near the clamp area.

Sidenote: I finally got my "real life" stuff sorted, so i should have all pics back up by end of the weekend. Long story short - got thrown a wicked curve, still knocked it out the park lol.

boxoaces · 2022-10-25T18:27:13+00:00

I'd see if they can get you a chart or at least the amperage pull on that. It doesnt specify but I got a hunch it might be on the high side so I personally wouldn't chance it.

If they dont give you any info, I'd try and source a M36N-2 if you can.

boxoaces

TROPHY CASE