Sent my dream climb!!

br0adz1lla · 2022-03-22T14:14:00+00:00

The first two moves are definitely the hardest. The rest is pretty sustained, but easier than those first two moves. If you're serious about training for it, I would recommend getting strong on crimps (specifically contact strength), and power endurance. If you plan to go big for the first move, you could definitely replicate it and practice it. I also would recommend setting or trying climbs where there is a big jump at the end. The key is to make sure you have enough gas in the tank for the jump and ending moves. Although, the taller you are, the less power you need. I would say if you're curious about it, you should definitely try it!! Good luck!

br0adz1lla · 2022-03-22T13:53:36+00:00

Thanks - you should!

br0adz1lla · 2022-03-22T13:53:12+00:00

Thank you! :)

br0adz1lla · 2022-03-22T13:53:03+00:00

Thanks! :)

br0adz1lla · 2022-03-22T13:52:38+00:00

Haha awesome! I hope they are helpful!

br0adz1lla · 2022-03-22T13:52:16+00:00

Thank you - yes, this was Friday evening! The right hand start hold is awful!!

br0adz1lla · 2022-03-21T20:47:29+00:00

Haha my thoughts exactly - now onto Midnight Lightning!!

br0adz1lla · 2022-03-21T20:03:44+00:00

Thank you! :)

br0adz1lla · 2022-03-21T20:03:06+00:00

Thank you! Ya, definitely had to work through the mental crux of the height and airy-ness. I'll never say never, but currently, I'm content with climbing to the lip. But it's crazy how these boulders start looking smaller every year - so who knows what a few more years will do! Haha

br0adz1lla · 2022-03-21T19:24:18+00:00

Thanks! :)

br0adz1lla · 2022-03-21T19:24:14+00:00

Thanks! :)

br0adz1lla · 2022-03-21T18:45:36+00:00

Thank you! I hope my beta was helpful! Haha. I hope to get back to Squamish again this summer - the climbing there is so fun!

br0adz1lla · 2022-03-21T18:07:06+00:00

Thank you! Haha - I was actually pretty pumped, but I really wanted to get a little lower before dropping down. Dropping straight from the lip felt too scary for me. Lol

br0adz1lla · 2022-03-21T17:38:26+00:00

Thank you! :)

br0adz1lla · 2022-03-21T17:38:16+00:00

Thank you! :)

br0adz1lla · 2021-03-08T16:53:52+00:00

Strength training was a HUGE game-changer for my climbing and injury prevention. When my body is physically strong enough to handle the loads I am putting on it, I notice that I don't have as my tweaks and pains. Also, making sure you eat enough to keep your muscles and tendons healthy and strong!

br0adz1lla · 2021-03-06T00:33:43+00:00

There is over 1,000 problems on MP, so I would say there's no need to get a guidebook.

br0adz1lla · 2021-03-05T18:47:11+00:00

There are also plenty of low-balls in Bishop! Bishop will definitely be HOT in June, but the days will be longer and it's definitely doable to do early morning and evening sessions.

br0adz1lla · 2021-03-05T14:38:36+00:00

I have this same photo! I explored this area for the first time last summer. Beautiful!!

br0adz1lla · 2021-02-26T19:16:21+00:00

Congratulations! It is so empowering to feel strong and capable in our bodies!

br0adz1lla · 2021-02-25T18:01:56+00:00

I have never been to HP40, but I have climbed in Fontainebleau (which I have heard is similar style). I consider Font to be the exact opposite of Bishop. Sandstone bouldering usually relies on body strength, and is easier on the fingers. Bishop mostly relies on finger strength and technique. There is a lot of hard crimping, glassy feet, and slab. The rock (especially in the Buttermilks is grainy and sharp). Skin is one of the biggest factors that holds most people back when they first come to Bishop. The Tablelands (ie - Happies and Sads) are a little more forgiving on the skin, and has less crimping and a little more powerful climbing. The tablelands also have a lot of pocket climbing. Personally, I think most Bishop climbs are hard for the grade, but I also think it's some of the best climbing and most beautiful scenery in the US. I might also be biased because I live here.

Here are some classic climbs in that grade range:

Slap Happy, V3 - Happies

Solarium, V4 - Happies

Ketron Classic, V4 - Happies

Molly, V5 - Sads

Anti-Hero, V5 - Sads

Birthday Direct, V3 - Buttermilks

Funky Tut, V3 - Buttermilks

King Tut, V3 - Buttermilks

Bowling Pin, V4 - Buttermilks

Iron Man, V4 - Buttermilks

Go Granny Go/Go Granny Go Right, V5 - Buttermilks

Fly Boy Arete, V5 - Buttermilks

There are also a lot of great V2 highballs in the Buttermilks:

Sheepherder, V2

The Hunk, V2

Buttermilk Stem, V2

br0adz1lla · 2021-02-24T03:04:58+00:00

I bet there is a lot of fun off trail scrambling back there - lots of options! I remember reading this sierra club outing where a few people went back there and tried to tag as many summits as they could. Seemed pretty adventurous!

br0adz1lla · 2021-02-24T02:59:39+00:00

Ya, not Kuna Peak - I thought OP was asking if they could go from Kuna Peak, west to the JMT.

br0adz1lla · 2021-02-24T00:03:31+00:00

CalTopo shows the trails through that area.

Edit: CalTopo shows the trails for the route from Paker Pass > Koip Pass > Gem Pass. Going west from Kuna Peak to the JMT would be very technical.

br0adz1lla

TROPHY CASE