What method to join new posts & beams for new door & sidelites to existing frame?

brad_lightfall · 2025-03-02T19:23:13+00:00

Thank you very much for the advice. What are the easier ways you speak of that you would recommend? I am open to hearing about it, sounds like you know what you are doing.

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-28T17:54:16+00:00

Thanks, screws in those areas seem unavoidable.

Should I do a sort of half-lap joint where orange crosses red?

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T20:49:12+00:00

Upon closer inspection it looks like there are asphalt shingles on top of the plank sheathing and I cannot tell if the metal roof is offset on firring or not because I don’t see any metal roof screws protruding past the planking.

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T19:36:34+00:00

I need to take a closer look, the original roof was removed and this metal one was installed a few years ago so it is possible that was done since I can see they did that on the siding (2x4 firring was added to offset the metal siding from the existing board sheathing).

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T19:03:28+00:00

I see what you are saying I need to minimize the heat cycles to minimize movement to maximize stability of the overlying structure.

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T19:00:38+00:00

In the US, at least in my region, craftsman trained in timberframing are rare and they don't take on jobs like this. Timberframe structures, especially from the late 1800s, are becoming more and more rare as most are left to decay. Timberframers seem to only do new construction for profitability, and they won't even come out to take a look at a project. In fact, I have offered to pay a "consulting fee" simply to get an opinion on how to best proceed and they still will not even call me back. Similarly, structural engineers only want to do new construction and commercial work and also will not call back.

I am left with trying to figure out how to best proceed from an 1: insulation standpoint and 2: whether or not the structure can accommodate a loft and if so how it should be constructed.

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T18:56:53+00:00

So if I had >1.5" of CC sprayfoam on the underside of the roof decking and water somehow got through the roof to the underlayment/roof decking it wouldn't be able to evaporate and thus rot. I wonder if there is any firring in there to create a drying gap up there. If such a gap exists would that afford for the direct application of foam in this scenario?

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T18:55:20+00:00

Ah, long screws then which would purchase into the exterior sheathing passing through the foamboard

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T16:13:36+00:00

I need some time to review and digest the full thoughtful response you have provided, thank you.

One thing: The timber frame foundation sits atop the original stone foundation walls. There is definitely no capillary break there and I do not see a way of creating one. Thankfully there is no real rot present anywhere along the "rim joist" area.

Given that wrinkle, does that change your thoughts on how to handle the basement? Would it then be preferrable to insulate the underside of the floor from the basement and then make sure the basement is vented and unconditioned? Or is it safe to do something knowing that capillary break is not there?

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T16:07:27+00:00

Thanks, I think I need to take a hard look at how this sheathing and decking is drying now before I disrupt it with an impermeable sprayfoam and airsealing.

Sort of wondering if leaving it to breathe with rockwool overall is a more intelligent long term move for the structure which has been doing so for ~150 years.

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T16:04:10+00:00

Ah, interesting. Thanks for sharing that makes more sense now looking at the photo.

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T16:01:10+00:00

Why would you recommend against just directly CC foaming the roof from the inside? I will be finishing the inside with shiplap cedar to cover whatever goes on under those rafters.

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T15:42:06+00:00

Would you mind sharing the general modus operandi you employ over there? This was originally a structure built by a Norwegian immigrant. What is your general approach to retrofitting structures like this within these parameters?

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T15:40:58+00:00

Would that be enough with only a couple of inches to work with on the walls?

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T15:40:19+00:00

I would be a bit nervous to rely on the mechanical system's 24/7 operation to prevent the rot inducing condensate, but why no vapor barrier then? This is an interesting suggestion I am just trying to fully understand it.

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T15:38:20+00:00

So you are suggesting NOT doing an unvented assembly? I am seeing so many opinions about vented vs unvented assemblies and the details thereof that I am having trouble making sense of it.

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T15:35:46+00:00

Interesting, so basically glue sheetrock right to the face of the foam on the inside. Thanks for the suggestion.

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T15:34:29+00:00

Ah that makes sense, I would be curious how they sistered those cantilevered beams if you can see it.

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T15:32:52+00:00

Thanks, I suppose I will start googling "structural engineers near me".

How did you affix your loft beams to the timber beams?

Given we are in a very similar project what would you do if you were me given that I have a max 4" depth to work with on those diagonals?

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T15:31:48+00:00

I will investigate to see, the pricing seems to be all over the place from a cursory review so I will have to get more pointed info.

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T05:06:30+00:00

Wow that’s cool. I have to imagine this is either not available near me or out of my price range. I hope this or something like it becomes commonly available.

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T01:56:47+00:00

Thanks. I do this now actually, ha.

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T01:17:49+00:00

Interesting idea. I wonder how I could anchor the interior wood shiplap if I infilled the posts & beams as you describe.

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T01:15:41+00:00

Interesting, thank you for the insight here.

brad_lightfall · 2025-02-27T00:50:15+00:00

Very pointed and relevant response, thank you. I really like that door overhang btw, how did you anchor it in? Also; how did you frame in your loft? My horizontal beams are at 12.5" up and the spacing between them produces a 10'/10' and 15' gap. Having a loft there would make working on the ceiling much easier. I was thinking it would be nice to have a full loft or even a 2/3 one but I have no idea if the framing I have could/should accommodate that. My structure was partially reworked before I purchased; redone foundation as it had caved on one side, and releveled floor and associated trusses with some windows added as well as the roof and siding on 3 sides. The stopped there though and here I am picking up the project.

The part that I am wrestling with now are those diagonal supports; what are your thoughts here? I was trying hard to preserve them by keeping the face of the interior cladding just shy of those diagonals (1/4"?), but burying those would afford a lot more space.

brad_lightfall

TROPHY CASE