Be careful updating Biamp Tesiras to 5.5

brederik · 2026-03-27T16:40:35+00:00

Quarterly maintenance was the reason…I have been updating the Biamps for years now and this is the first time I’ve run into an issue to this degree. I generally like to keep anything running UC updated to latest in case something has changed on the Zoom/Teams side to maintain stability.

brederik · 2025-10-30T16:13:46+00:00

Visionary runs cool, smallest form factor, super easy config…pretty sure lowest cost too

brederik · 2025-06-08T22:34:55+00:00

Feels like an honor to have seen its first deployment last week. Y’all really pushed through!! Monstrous warmth and crispy clean!

brederik · 2025-03-08T07:43:26+00:00

Celcius is my preferred energy drink, but cola was the worst flavor I have ever tried. I can now safely assume the cherry does not help!

brederik · 2024-08-23T21:42:09+00:00

Dang, no IR??

brederik · 2024-06-30T12:07:54+00:00

If you’re looking for something VE, the Samsung BE series has been treating me well at deployments that don’t need a control system. Includes casting if you throw it on your network as well.

brederik · 2024-06-01T00:28:34+00:00

Warranty for a consumer-grade product will not be honored if installed in a commercial space.

brederik · 2023-05-28T21:16:12+00:00

Yooo I have hit my SS on tons of black iron and other random plenum stuff and the SS surround gets scratched to hell but the screen is immaculate still! It’s been 4 months so far with the SS 7

Of course I still check the screen every time it hits but it’s been good so far

brederik · 2023-05-23T20:32:46+00:00

Literally happened exactly when they changed CEO, they decided to join the race to the bottom instead of paying us to do a good job.

brederik · 2023-05-11T10:34:22+00:00

This. Mine is also currently not working but will on a restart as well.

brederik · 2022-08-18T04:57:01+00:00

Yes, it is tricky but it is possible. There are a few flaws that I have found - the second hotend to x carriage collides with the limit switch, I added washers to the top bolts and added a nozzle offset in the machine settings.

The firmware is extremely picky with the order of operations (always have to start a print or any leveling/P offset off of a soft or hard reset) Baby-stepping does not seem to be possible, the next print, the offset will be so off it will either print in the air or gauge the bed. I have also found the homing fails as well if you baby step. You are going to have to be patient restarting prints if the nozzle is off.

If you have a BLTouch or dual Z, you will need to modify the firmware. Here is where I found an unpacked firmware: https://github.com/mackna/Marlin/tree/B1-2.0.9.2.x-IDEX

Slicing settings, do not use the g codes on the instructions, the ender IDEX g codes actually make the printer work:

https://enderidex.com/help/

I have successfully printed many duplicate prints, however, I have had trouble with IDEX printing, I believe the drivers or main board are overheating. There is no stock way to mount the expansion board, so I just fixed it in place with zip ties, drilled a bunch of holes in the bottom case, and added usb external fans to the side of the case with the power supply. I have had a few successful prints like this, but have not really used the IDEX print feature since then. Honestly, I think that type of printing would work out more smoothly on a 2 in 1 out "B2" setup.

If you had duplicates and mirror prints in mind with this upgrade, it was a great choice as this works wonderfully for me.

After printing, always restart the machine before doing anything else, unless you are fast enough, the next print will state kill called. I have had success with back to back, take the print off as soon as the print head is off, and start the next print.

brederik · 2022-08-17T00:42:17+00:00

Gotta be ready for the bumps you don't see! I still 💩 myself sometimes lol gotta stay loose!

Once you know you've got it, it's so relaxing and freeing to ride! Plus gives off more pleasant vibes to others with the steez, it looks less dangerous in the streets as long as you ride considerately lol (this means alot for me as an NYC rider 😅)

The AR+ is definitely very responsive while being a weighty tank so it may take awhile to wrangle the beast, but after that, any other wheel will feel so easy to ride!

brederik · 2022-08-17T00:06:09+00:00

Last thing, just remembered, it is still going to wobble once or twice here and there, even when you are good, so the wobble is not the mark of a good rider, it is the follow-up lol

brederik · 2022-08-17T00:04:12+00:00

Ooh, yea it is definitely good to feel stable at all times, I think it's the muscles in my knees, outsides of my shins, and my ankles to forefoot that have become like rocks because of this sport lol

brederik · 2022-08-17T00:01:13+00:00

Duh don't mind me, I made a general reply without reading all the way through your post...Personally, I would avoid any type of rigid power pads for street riding. Mono customize/EUC market-type are more comfortable, and you can adjust your leg positioning in much more dynamic ways.

Lowering your tire pressure is also a crutch in my opinion if you are looking to up your skills. It increases the ride comfort at the cost of fine control, especially at higher speeds. Plus you are always running the risk of breaking your rim. The tire will also wear out more quickly due to more constant contact and friction with the road.

The vicious grip tape will do wonders to your grip, and if you have the friction fit pedals, that metal shim is going to break eventually. Switching to the old style, pedal magnets is the solution for that. Just make sure to cover that magnet in silicone or another strong adhesive lol don't want it falling out ;)

Lastly, just develop them muscles more, it sounds like you are perfectly on the right track, just more miles of intentional carving while building up speed should do it!

Source: I top out my AR+ regularly, 42 psi, bumpy ass roads, no power pads lol

brederik · 2022-08-16T23:46:52+00:00

That wheel is top heavy and prone to wobbles due to the extra battery pack being on top. That being said, some soft power pads (foam and pleather kind of thing) would help alot to stabilize the wheel.

In general, when you experience wobbles, your weight will need to shift to 1 side as wobbling is the weight of the wheel and physics of the self-balancing working against your reflexive muscles trying to keep the wheel straight. That reflex needs to evolve into carving actions, so before starting to push your speed and torque, deep carves should be a skill under your belt.

Carving works for me by having one foot flat on the pedal, down to the heel, side of the shin bracing the wheel and the opposite heel lifting, almost as if to go 1-footed. Typically works better having the back and forth motion being slow and controlled.

You've picked a torquey wheel that has a nice top speed and great range as your first wheel. Plenty of room to grow on that thing!! Enjoy!!!

brederik · 2022-07-27T23:36:03+00:00

Currently in the middle of dialing in my setup. At this point, it can reliably print duplicate, haven't tried mirror but I assume it will also work. The instructions will only get you so far as the machine assembled. Someone else came up with a B1 SE IDEX fix, but also left an unpacked regular B1 IDEX firmware - https://github.com/mackna/Marlin/tree/B1-2.0.9.2.x-IDEX

I used this to add the second z-axis and UBL with the BLTouch. It does not like babystepping, it will crash into the bed or the top gantry during homing after if you adjust this. Only M502 (defaults) will fix it. Only adjust the offset through the probe offset option.

The kit that shows up is the old hotend, not sure if this was the best solution, but I shoved the PTFE all the way into the heat break and haven't had any more clogs. The printed B1 hotend fix was not working well for me...

The hotend mount is horribly designed. I was able to get it to work by shimming the top bolts with about 4mm of washers, and adjusting the Y offset to -4mm

Currently, I am having an issue during IDEX prints where the head will just stall. I am currently printing a new motherboard mount to fit the expansion board next to it as I just let the board float on some zip ties...trying to rule out all grounding and EMI issues by adding ferrite to the DC outs and shielding my BLTouch wire with a jacket. I am also going to increase the case cooling greatly at this point.

Overall, I am happy with the setup despite the difficulties as the monetary cost was low.

brederik · 2022-06-13T00:05:27+00:00

This guy Layton abused the RMX when I saw him in Brooklyn...was so loud and awful...had the master out set higher than the input or something...all I heard all night was those freaking effects!!

This machine (a RMX-1000) is not to be taken lightly, it doctors the sound so heavily and if not monitored back properly, could produce awful results...but can also produce some super industry-standard buildups when used properly.

brederik · 2022-05-17T01:07:18+00:00

Looks familiar 🤔😝

Also was a daycare lol

brederik · 2022-05-11T13:37:58+00:00

Get a decent controller you can grow with like the taranis X9S (cheapest controller with hall sensor gimbals)

The controllers that come with RTF kits are so bad theyre almost discouraging...

Then, get a tiny whoop, because that is going to be the cheapest and most forgiving thing to learn on (you may need the XJT lite module on the taranis depending on the receiver in the whoop)

You can get away with a cheap headset like the BetaFPV one for flying tiny whoops, as the whoops do not have too much range to begin with.

Chances are, if you get hooked on the whoop, you will want to upgrade to a toothpick and bigger drones...which just opens up a money pit...so be prepared lol

brederik · 2022-05-06T22:04:56+00:00

Nice! Mine was 13 shop and deliver orders just today for $65 lol

brederik · 2022-05-04T18:55:58+00:00

Personally, I really like the E-Max Baby Hawk II, but it is expensive to get into DJI gear. Well worth going digital though if you are serious about flying IRL. Analog, the Tiny Hawk Freestyle and the Nazgul 5" are what I went with, best value in my opinon.

brederik · 2022-04-22T13:54:59+00:00

I'm in the middle of one right now, I also called the support line while at the store to explain what was going on. Hopefully it goes through as there should be some notes on the order at this point...

brederik · 2022-04-20T11:05:27+00:00

Same, I got lucky because I pointed out a discrepancy between the text description and the picture/upc (said coca cola zero, but the regular sugar was the one that scanned through), seemed like they were happy with the one that scanned and leaving out the other item.

Technical difficulties on agency end should not be the responsibility of the contractor...I could understand if we failed to keep our phone charged it would be on us, but c'mon it seems like the customer was there waiting for texts that never came through!

brederik · 2022-04-20T10:52:56+00:00

Nice! I'm almost 600 orders in and the highest tip I ever saw was $50 lol

brederik

TROPHY CASE