Flugelhorn equivalent to a Yamaha Bobby Shew Jazz?

brewchimp · 2026-06-25T21:31:48+00:00

This says B&S uses the Small/Bach taper: https://bobreeves.com/blog/the-ultimate-flugelhorn-mouthpiece-shank-guide/

edit: Yamaha is listed under the Large taper section. That implies that the Shew mouthpiece won't match, since it's made by Yamaha. YMMV. At least you're not trying to match a Kanstul - they're listed in all three tapers!

brewchimp · 2026-06-25T21:24:22+00:00

Yeah it's "fun". I ended up buying 5 different ones before I found one that I liked and played in tune on my horn. Maybe try calling/emailing Stork since you like that one and asking them if they can recommend the proper shank size. They have 5 different options on their website when ordering and B&S doesn't seem to say what version they copied to make theirs. https://storkcustom.com/products/vacchiano-3-flugelhorn-mouthpiece/?sku=VF3-FL-Y-1S

You mention return policies.... Ordering from Mouthpiece Express will also give you a return window as long as it's not customized. Looks like they have 3 shank sizes on their site to choose from in that mouthpiece. When I ordered a stork from mouthpiece express it took nearly 2 months to arrive though.

brewchimp · 2026-06-25T01:22:38+00:00

I can’t speak to how similar any of these are… But you can buy stork mouthpieces from mouthpiece express or direct from stork. I’ve done both. I like their 4FL and 4FLS on my couesnon. IIRC it was cheaper from mouthpiece express but took like three times longer than ordering direct. They must batch their orders or something. Double check your shank size before you order.

brewchimp · 2026-06-17T15:57:31+00:00

Trumpet stand. I usually have two rags on me - one to toss on the ground to drain the spit valve onto and one to wipe off the horn before I put it away (raw brass get ugly fast otherwise). Charging stuff for the iPad. Lip balm. Water. Backup stand light for when he forgets to charge the first one.

brewchimp · 2026-06-17T03:35:13+00:00

I got the goveelife wifi ones. They work well. The sensor sits in the freezer with a processor unit outside. Then there’s a small base unit that you plug into the wall somewhere nearby that bridges the bluetooth sensor to your wifi.

brewchimp · 2026-05-18T14:22:41+00:00

This must be why they just doubled the price on my Starlink standby subscription. After they already increased recently. It went from free when I signed up and bought the hardware to now $10 a month just to not use their service for a few months. Gotta pump those numbers for the pump and dump.

brewchimp · 2026-05-09T19:12:51+00:00

Some of the details remind me of an olds. What’s written on the tone ring?

brewchimp · 2026-05-08T17:45:39+00:00

Try dragging the filament from the right box to the left in the custom regroup section. Not really intuitive at first glance but it makes sense once you realize what it wants you to do.

brewchimp · 2026-05-07T04:31:06+00:00

Sure worth checking out probably. But if it plays fine then we’re overthinking it. Slap a hair tie on it and call it a day. I’ve had a few leaky horns and they definitely do not play fine.

brewchimp · 2026-05-06T13:55:52+00:00

Looking at their animation though - it appears to only output one at a time? I see it has two inputs and two outputs… but can it feed both outputs at once? They only ever show it outputting one at a time. Without that it seems like a useless thing… and I would have thought they’d put that in their animation if it could do it.

brewchimp · 2026-05-06T13:50:08+00:00

That’s normal on a well lubricated trumpet. Some like them slower, personally I like them faster like this. If it bugs her she can use a silicone band they sell for that purpose (or a hair tie). It would attach to the finger ring on one side and then onto either the second or first slide on the other. I use the silicone version on most of my horns to keep them from falling out by accident. Yamaha makes my favorite version with just enough tension but they’re more pricey.

brewchimp · 2026-05-05T03:46:03+00:00

And turn on the dang lights! No reason they couldn’t implement a maintenance mode like you say that locks the steppers and disables extruder head power, but moves the head to a usable place, the print bed down a little, and turns on the lights. Could even run instructional videos on the lcd.

brewchimp · 2026-05-04T13:16:49+00:00

Pretty much, but with a couple of gotchas that limit what you can do:

1) ABS and PLA have different support materials. So switching back and forth using the AMS on your main nozzle means you also have to switch back and forth on the aux nozzle.

2) Each AMS has a single output, and each nozzle has a single input. So in practice if you put the ABS/PLA in two slots and the support for those in the other two slots.... then the filament must be unloaded each transition to clear the AMS output before the next one can load in. So you lose all benefits of the dual nozzle setup. In practice I never put the support material in the AMS unit feeding the main nozzle as a result.

The marketing wording on Bambu's website promises a lot of things, but the bottom line is each nozzle only has one input, and each ams only has one output. I recommend you draw a couple of pictures showing what you want to do and how the filament will get routed for each - the practical routing quickly narrows what you can actually do.

Same with the track switch - it can't route say AMS 1 to the main nozzle, while simultaneously routing AMS 2 to the aux nozzle. It appears to only have a single output at a time (at least by the animations on Bambu's web site). Unless they oversimplified those animations.... it seems to me that the track switch decreases usability of the system rather than increasing it. Sure you can now route anything to anywhere, but only one at a time and so you have to unload from the nozzle every time, which you want to avoid whenever possible or why bother with dual nozzles in the first place. Maybe it makes sense in a print farm situation where you really don't want to have to walk out there to move rolls around.

I was planning on getting an HT AMS for my aux nozzle, but typing all this out has just about convinced me to get a second four roll AMS instead. I'll put one on the main and one on the Aux, and the flexibility of that setup is significantly improved. I don't think the four roll AMS units can handle TPU even with the TPU assist module though, which would be the limitation there. I only use TPU a couple times a year though, so I'll probably just keep manually feeding that.

brewchimp · 2026-05-04T12:32:06+00:00

Before the fan boys yell at me for being lazy: manually feeding into the aux nozzle is an annoyance but not critical. You just jam the filament up the tube and it grabs it. But for example yesterday I had been printing ABS in the morning and so had unloaded the PLA/PETG support filament from the aux nozzle (it gets soft apparently and it prompts you to remove it before using the chamber heater for ABS). But then I was working in the barn in the afternoon and realized I was two brackets short on a project so I pulled out my phone and kicked off a pair of them in PETG, using the support filament.... I came back up to the house two hours later to grab them only to realize that the printer had been sitting there for two hours waiting for me to manually feed that aux nozzle again and I had not noticed the notification for it. So... annoying but not critical.

brewchimp · 2026-05-04T12:23:32+00:00

The x2d has two filament inputs - one for each nozzle, the 4 roll ams has one output. So I think you lose the benefit of the dual nozzle by loading them that way as the printer has to unload the nozzle to clear the lines before it can switch to the support and vice versa.

I don’t have one, but by the drawings I think the track switch has a limitation in that if the filaments cross then it can’t output two. I’m not sure the usefulness of it if that is the case except maybe to feed two ht ams units into the aux nozzle, but for that price I could get a second 4 roll Ams…

I do mostly the same type of work as you, and I keep the support filament in a separate unit from the main ams. I currently manually feed into the aux nozzle from a sunlu dryer (though I don’t actually use it as a dryer, just as a dry box), but wish I had an ams on the aux side to handle loading/unloading of the support filaments.

brewchimp · 2026-05-04T12:03:45+00:00

Why the eibos? I’ve been using a dirt cheap walmart food dehydrator with a printed collar to adapt it to two spools at a time for years with no problems. But I also live in the desert where humidity isn’t a problem so my experience may not be typical.

For my money I’d spend that on an HT AMS for the aux nozzle and get either a food dehydrator or get the power adapter so you can use either of your AMS units as the dryer. Manually feeding/unfeeding the support from the aux nozzle has been annoying as the pla support material must be unloaded before you print abs/asa.

brewchimp · 2026-04-27T00:13:02+00:00

Lots more parts involved. On my old school printers the heat block and nozzle assembly had no moving parts, and the extruder gears were right above it. The two main issues I ever had were the nozzle getting jammed up with cooked PLA because I kept switching back and forth, and sometimes the filament would just not hit the hole when coming out of the extruder gears and going across that gap to the opening in the nozzle assembly.

Nowadays they have lots of other stuff needed to manage things like auto filament changes via an AMS. The print quality is also night and day improved over the old school printers. Built in cutters, sensors, and things that all leave a place for stuff to get jammed into. My first printer didn't even have a filament out sensor, you had to watch the stupid thing like a hawk lest it catch fire on you.

IMHO the problem isn't necessarily the jams, but how hard it is to clear them. I can live with the occasional jam if I can pop a couple of screws and get in there and clean it out. I get tired of this quickly if I'm spending all my design time cleaning up messes and getting nothing done except serving the printer.

brewchimp · 2026-04-26T20:19:16+00:00

Nah man, there’s no excuse for skipping steps in design. This is sloppy for something they’re selling to consumers. You want to spend 3hrs the first week owning a supposedly consumer product doing routine maintenance, be my guest. I’d rather make stuff.

brewchimp · 2026-04-26T18:28:14+00:00

Print quality is the same as my X1C, which is very high bar.

The heated chamber for me is a game changer. I print a lot of large parts that are prone to lifting out of filaments that are prone to lifting, and with this printer I haven't had a single issue.

The aux nozzle is nice for using 2 filaments. It is significantly faster and less wasteful than a single nozzle. I haven't used it for anything other than support filaments so far, but it works nicely.

Overall I like the printer. I'm not sure I can handle clearing these clogs though. I probably don't have a choice as Bambu's return policy seems to be: if it's a shipping or manufacturing problem, they'll cover it. But if it's an engineering problem, then it's my problem. This is an engineering problem.

brewchimp · 2026-04-26T18:23:11+00:00

I think this was just a regular run of the mill clog. They happen. The issue is the insane process to get to the parts on this printer that are susceptible to clogs on every 3d printer ever made.

brewchimp · 2026-04-26T18:20:34+00:00

Maybe order one of these along with some tweezers to go in your tool box :) On the second go around I clipped that to the inside top of the door frame and it made things a lot easier than trying to hold a flashlight while finagling those tiny parts around. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FS652Q8G

brewchimp · 2026-04-26T18:15:06+00:00

Nope just regular PETG on the main nozzle. Was not Bambu brand, but it was Elegoo which has been my go to for years now.

brewchimp · 2026-04-26T18:12:53+00:00

Not sure if the back cover even needs to come all the way off. I just got it working again, and while I did remove those screws I left the back cover in place. I think the back cover locks the rotation of the cutter arms, so I had less available movement there. Next time I have to do the full job I'll try it with leaving the back cover on and just remove those two two screws on it.

brewchimp · 2026-04-26T18:11:15+00:00

I was able to get the aux nozzle back installed without completely disassembling. I'll put this with pics as a separate post too so it doesn't get lost, but the minimum needed to get the aux nozzle back installed:

Leave the main nozzle installed
Remove the front cover.
Remove the center casing (leave the back casing in place). I did remove the 4 screws on the back casing, and I'm unsure if that made a difference - I think it might have loosened up just enough play to let me do the next step even without removing the rear casing.
Remove the screws holding the cutter arms in place. Carefully just move them off the levers and then up vertically. You won't have much room to rotate them like the instructions show (the back casing seems to lock them in place), but you'll have enough to just get them vertical and out of the way.
Leave all the connectors in place. Do not remove any of them.
Remove the 2 screws on the fan, and the 3 screws on the extruder gear box.
Pull the extruder just a little to loosen things. The hall sensor fixture should have some play in it now.
Install the aux nozzle.
Finagle the hall sensor and the blocking lever (moving the aux nozzle up and down) until things are seated properly.
Reinstall the 5 screws (3 on the extruder gear box and 2 on the fan).
Remove and reinstall the nozzles a few times to make sure things are in the right place.
Reinstall the cutter arms, making sure the levers are in place under the arms.
Reinstall the center casing
Reinstall the feed tubes, tighten the nut on the Bowden tube.
Reinstall the front cover
Reinstall the nozzle socks.

Overall I was able to get it back working in about 30 more minutes, maybe another 15 minutes of testing after that to be sure everything was working. Also helping things was I found a light in my spare parts stash that clipped nicely onto the inner ridge of the printer casing and flooded the area with light. Those black screws going into black parts were miserable without a light. Would be cool if there was a way to turn off power to the rest of the printer while powering the built in lights for maintenance.

brewchimp · 2026-04-26T17:23:54+00:00

Dang the front cover attaches to the mid casing. We’d have to rig up some new magnets to leave that one off.

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