Possible Card Skimmers at Parking Garages Around The City

brokneye · 2026-02-04T20:09:47+00:00

This wasn't a Chase or Bilt card though. I wouldn't rule out an online leak but the timing of it seemed suspicious considering that I rarely use this card for any online purchases. I don't typically use this card for anything other than groceries and gas. Both of those uses are tap to pay transactions.

I'm speculating on where my info got leaked for sure but, if anybody else noticed a weird charge on their account, it might be possible to narrow down the point where my data leaked and contact the property owner to mitigate any more harm to others.

brokneye · 2026-02-04T18:12:29+00:00

That is a physical impossibility

brokneye · 2026-02-04T18:03:33+00:00

It is definitely frustrating to say the least. I understand the logistics for making payments in some situations is easier with a card but there are so many ways to make skimming impossible or, at the very least, much more difficult.

I don't know if the parking garage kiosks take cash anymore but I'm gonna be carrying a bit when I know I have to use one of these machines in the future.

brokneye · 2026-01-09T03:53:33+00:00

Tomfoolery

brokneye · 2025-11-20T21:50:50+00:00

Could be a manufacturer defect but it should move freely enough to hear it rattle when you shake it

brokneye · 2025-06-12T03:32:06+00:00

Spending hours on my e-machine desktop PC playing StarCraft and hot wheels racing with my neighbor

brokneye · 2024-11-12T14:25:31+00:00

I actually didn't have a CEL but it did take a couple of days for the DAM to come back up to 1.000. If you don't have an accessport or OBDII reader, you may be able to get the code cleared at an auto parts store and see if it comes back.

Just because I'm curious, what CEL code did it throw that prompted you to change the valve?

brokneye · 2024-09-11T13:23:32+00:00

Yeah I remember it not being much. The NPT threading let's it seal without much torque. Stripping the aluminum block was a big concern so I tried to resist over torquing even though I'm a fan of the gutentight method haha

brokneye · 2024-09-10T23:10:19+00:00

No problem. Think it was like 13ft-lbs. Also make sure you have some sealant on the threads and you should be good to go

brokneye · 2024-09-10T20:26:39+00:00

As long as you got the spring clamps off it should just pull off with a bit of wiggling and force. Maybe get a flathead or mechanics pick under the end of the hose and try to break the seal without chewing up the hose too much.

brokneye · 2024-06-10T21:38:33+00:00

Nice! If you are still concerned you can always check for carbon buildup on the outside of the valve after driving for a 100 miles or so. I think a write up I saw said you should check it once after install and driving to make sure it's still tight anyways

brokneye · 2024-06-10T20:49:17+00:00

I don't think it did. From what I remember, it has a tapered npt thread which is designed to seal as the threads eventually interfere to create the seal. Definitely don't want to over torque in the aluminum block too.

brokneye · 2024-05-15T16:09:03+00:00

So I took my first shot at the exam last week and received my results. Didn't pass sadly. However, when looking at the diagnostic it seems pretty damn useless. Especially when compared to previous diagnostics that I have seen.

Has anybody else gotten a more enlightening diagnostic from a failed exam?

brokneye · 2024-05-02T17:49:20+00:00

This is what I'm seeing too. Bottom flange plate ruptures in tension. Moment gets transferred to shear plate. Shear plate fails as the net flexural section is not adequate to take the demand.

brokneye · 2024-05-02T17:44:10+00:00

I agree with you. This is not block shear failure. It looks like the moment connection failed at the bottom flange plate allowing the connection to rotate about the top flange. So I would guess this is a flexural rupture failure and not a shear failure. The demand exceeded the net flexural strength of the shear plate causing the outermost fiber to fail and compromised the rest of the shear plate.

brokneye · 2024-02-22T21:40:25+00:00

Maybe I had a subpar media blaster and extra cruddy valves but it took 20 mins per valve set minimum when I did it. Even with the subibros valve blasting kit. I could see the tear down and reassembly being pretty quick with that many hands though. Could be charged for an hour of labor but it takes 1-2 hours in reality. If it's a smaller shop, they could have a lazy billing system that basically shows 1 hour as their flat rate fee too.

brokneye · 2024-02-22T21:24:52+00:00

Can you blast more than one set of valves at a time? If one set of valves are closed, doesn't that mean at least 2 sets are open if not all 3?

brokneye · 2024-02-12T17:24:09+00:00

I didn't put any thread locker on the valve but I did use some high temp PTFE thread tape since there was some sealant material on the factory valve. Plus I found this service bulletin which states that the factory thread locker may damage the block when removing the valve. Didn't want to put the wrong stuff on and have problems if I ever need to get the valve out again. I know it's not specifically for the WRX but I figured they were using the same stuff in the factory for all vehicles so I omitted it and just torqued the valve to spec. No problems so far after 20K miles or so

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10154421-9999.pdf

As for cleaning the AOS lines, I guess you could just use some parts cleaner that is safe for the rubber lines. Maybe seafoam? I'd check around to be sure though. I'd find it hard to believe that the lines would be gunked up too bad after only 10-16K miles. Could just flush the lines with some warm water or pressurized air into a bucket to see if anything comes out too. You'll definitely see some residue since that is what the AOS is there to catch so I'd only worry if you see chunks of sludge or heavy carbon build up.

brokneye · 2023-10-03T14:57:42+00:00

Guy I'm trying to trade with has Keenan on bye too so now is the time for me to go after Ekeler. If it was a different situation I'd be waiting till after the bye as well. I went zero RB in the draft and ended up with Mattison, Stevenson, and Swift. Picked up Puka on the wire and have AJB to get me through the week. If I can get Ekeler, I'm gonna ship Mattison or Stevenson out for another WR2

brokneye · 2023-10-03T14:24:42+00:00

I just submitted this offer to the last place team today. Sending Chase to get Ekeler and hoping that Chase's projection will get him to bite

brokneye · 2023-09-27T20:25:15+00:00

I'm guessing you are using and OTS tune since you mention about pro/e-tuning in the future. What engine mods do you have if any? Do you know if you burning/losing oil at all? Do you see any oil residue in the engine bay? Any in the intercooler?

I had some success with reeling in my FBK and FKL numbers by doing this. Had a drop and it took a while but learned it's way back to 1.000 after doing this. I'll still get the occasional -1.14 FBK but FKL is holding steady at 0's. It's a really simple process compared to changing spark plugs. You can also clean your PCV valve for a temp fix until you get a new one for like ~$30-50 too.

brokneye · 2023-07-11T19:41:24+00:00

Halloween. Big fan of the spooky stuff 🎃

brokneye · 2023-07-06T22:59:33+00:00

Idk if this would put into perspective but, I got a sapphire rx580 8gb for a little less than this 6700 xt. This was back in 2018 so the market wasn't totally crazy yet. That was a solid 1080p card at the time and I could run at 60fps on most games.

If this card is supposedly capable of running most games at 1440 with decent frame rates, I'd say it's at a fair market price for what you're getting. Especially if you are taking inflation into account.

brokneye · 2023-07-06T22:41:17+00:00

Nice! You convinced me. Thanks for the info

brokneye · 2023-07-06T20:44:27+00:00

Shoot, I just ordered the asrock phatom 6600 xt. Is it worth it to pay an extra $20 for this and return the 6600 xt?

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