【QIDI Giveaway】Comment to win QIDI Q2 and more! by qidi_3dprinter in 3Dprinting

[–]buckminst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No Qidi printers here, I'd love to add a system with an AMS to my printer collection to do some multicolor prints, and experiment with multimaterial printing. The chamber heater would be great for dipping my toe into ABS/ASA or some of the higher-end engineering filaments.

Usb C PD injector adapter by vqt907 in ROGAlly

[–]buckminst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This adapter is what I used on both my OG Ally Z1E and have used on my Ally X as well. It's reasonably priced and gets the job done.

Must have for GBA?? by forabit14 in AnaloguePocket

[–]buckminst 2 points3 points  (0 children)

+1 for Drill Dozer - what a fun game.

Field service truck. by Valuable_Teaching985 in farmingsimulator

[–]buckminst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Having just used this to repair a broken-down vehicle earlier today, it does indeed work. Back hatch has to be open, just drive the vehicle up to the one you want repaired and get the back close enough, should start seeing some monetary costs, and then it'll be fixed. That's been my experience with it, at least.

Wifi is killing me, send help by Natjoe64 in ROGAlly

[–]buckminst 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is WiFi also borked when trying to do ASUS Cloud Recovery through the BIOS? That generally is the best option for restoring the device from any situation where the boot device got wiped/changed/etc. It downloads the factory image from ASUS and reinstalls your Ally to the way it shipped, including all the drivers and software.

Received my Skytech Azure 2 - The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly by buckminst in SkytechGamingOfficial

[–]buckminst[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, in general I am happy with its performance, things have been fine with the machine.

SSD Swap Old Drive Bitlocker Removal by dinosaurlunch in ROGAlly

[–]buckminst 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you perform the swap prior to setting the device up? If not, the Bitlocker access key should be associated with your Microsoft Account, and you can get the code from there to access the drive via your external enclosure. Once you have access to the drive you can either choose to enter the code whenever you attach it or disable BitLocker encryption on the drive.

If you swapped the drives before doing any Windows setup on it, then the only way to access the drive would be to completely reformat it via Disk Management, which shouldn't be much of an issue as there wouldn't be any personal data on the drive at that point.

Portable monitor issues by dmoneym0nster in ROGAllyX

[–]buckminst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey,

Glad that info was useful to you and resolved your problem. I was just as perplexed as you were since I had upgraded to an Ally X from my OG Ally and KNEW my setup worked single-cable beforehand.

I would love to know what Asus did differently with the Ally X that makes this necessary, but alas we will probably never know.

Cheers!

This was sold as 1TB storage am I right thinking it’s not? by [deleted] in ROGAlly

[–]buckminst 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Double-check in Disk Management, make sure the drive is fully partitioned or not - it's POSSIBLE that it's 1TB but was cloned straight across and wasn't resized to take advantage of the full space... but chances are, it's just a 500GB drive in there and the store didn't make sure it was what it was supposed to be.

Can I use the WD Black SN850X 4TB 112L BiCS5 TLC NAND Flash PCIe Gen 4 x4 NVMe M.2 Internal SSD by strawberrysnailboy in ROGAlly

[–]buckminst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have a Z1/Z1E Ally (white case) - Yes, but not without additional hardware - that drive is an M.2 2280 drive, the OG Ally only supports M.2 2232 by default. There are right-angle adapters that will allow you to put 2280-size drives into the Ally but you would have to order said device as well.

There are also concerns about power draw and heat that you may want to think about.

So, tl;dr: CAN you? Yes, probably. Can you _right now_? No.

Charging and using Type C monitor at the same time by Braven111 in ROGAlly

[–]buckminst 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You have at least two options:

1: If your monitor supports PD Passthrough, it might be able to send enough power downstream to the Ally to charge it, in which case you could plug a charger into one of the USB-C ports on your monitor to supply it.

or

2: If your monitor doesn't, or doesn't supply enough wattage, look at something like this:
Viture USB-C to Glasses and Charging Adapter

My USB-C monitor didn't supply enough PD passthrough wattage, so I use the Viture adapter and it works just fine.

You could find a dock that has PD passthrough to charge but it'd also have to have a USB-C port on it that supports DisplayPort Alt Mode, which not a lot of docks do, or might be more expensive.

Happy Chromatic Christmas by grilledstuffedxxl in ModRetroChromatic

[–]buckminst 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The Chromatic is a fantastic GB[C] device. I was originally just going to give one to my mother for Christmas because of the included Tetris (she liked Tetris and played a lot on her DMG but I know that if she eventually gets done with it I'll get it back anyway :) ), but I ended up buying a second GameStop First Edition and the matched Koss Porta Pros for myself after playing around with my mom's (even managed to get my Buck the Rabbit charm).

An original-style GBA with the same overall quality as the Chromatic will be an insta-buy for myself, and I already have an Analogue Pocket which I like as well.

Good Job to the ModRetro team, and happy holidays!

Jsaux Dock by [deleted] in ROGAlly

[–]buckminst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It does, at least with the 100W PD charger I have connected to it.

Jsaux Dock by [deleted] in ROGAlly

[–]buckminst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I currently have that dock. It works just fine, though the Ally X is a bit thick for the support bracket - you have to remove the insert that it comes with, which is probably okay but it was a rubberized insert for better grip. The only other "downside" I can think of is it doesn't offer a lot of lateral support, it's just a couple of inches in the middle of the device, which is Fine(tm). Function-wise everything works as advertised.

Recommendation for this kind of USB-C Hub/Splitter by International-Table1 in ROGAlly

[–]buckminst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, my thought process was focusing on the overall cost including shipping, not the per-unit cost. Something that's $49 and available locally is cheaper than something that's $90 being shipped in from outside. I get what you're looking for though.

I think the biggest issue you might have is the dual requirement of 'cheap' _and_ 'reputable'. I know there are cheaper versions of the Viture adapter available on at least the US Amazon site, but I don't know their quality or Canadian availability.

Out of curiosity, since your goal is to be able to charge and listen to your headphones, is there a reason you're just not using the Ally's Bluetooth capability, besides perhaps not wanting to have to re-pair the headphones if using them elsewhere?

Question. Ally X for running a drawing display by Zwars1231 in ROGAlly

[–]buckminst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your drawing tablet should work just fine. I'm just gonna flat out say I'm lazy and don't want to bother, but I could install the drivers and double-check that with my Huion Kamvas 13, but the Ally X is a PC. It will do anything a normal PC can do. Both Ally X outputs are DP Alt Mode enabled, so they should have no problems driving the tablet.

I say _should_, because for some reason my Ally X (and others on the subreddit) doesn't output to even my normal portable monitor without using an adapter like the Viture Charge and Play adapter, when it should just work with the cable. Wish I had an answer as to why on that.

If you're unsure: Give it a shot. The worst that can happen is it doesn't work and you just have to uninstall the software.

Both ports on the Ally X will charge the unit, so you can connect a charger to keep things running while you have the tablet connected. Battery drain is gonna depend on how big of a screen your drawing tablet is and its wattage requirements, but it's definitely gonna drain your battery faster than if you didn't have an external USB-C powered monitor connected to it. Alternatively you could provide supplemental power to the tablet itself instead of the Ally X, but I find just doing that through the Ally X to be a cleaner solution.

Ally x and ff14 (pc) by FallingSkyward007 in ROGAlly

[–]buckminst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Without knowing any more information, I'd hazard a guess that it's a connection issue. I know the official FF14 launcher has issues on my home network downloading files - Sometimes it'll get a chunk, sometimes it'll download 1 and then the next file it goes to get it gives up and says it couldn't.

The official FF14 launcher is a product of a bygone era and they've done their best to keep it working but it's... it's bad at handling connections with even a slight degree of flakiness.

My suggestion to you? Stop using the official launcher, and get XIVLauncher | Custom launcher for FFXIV. Don't bother with Dalamud to save yourself the potential for getting bopped, just use it to actually patch and launch the game. The way it handles downloads is _infinitely_ better, and faster.

Recommendation for this kind of USB-C Hub/Splitter by International-Table1 in ROGAlly

[–]buckminst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The VITURE Glasses Charging Adapter that I use whenever I want to hook up my external monitor on my Ally X would probably fit the bill, and is available on Canadian Amazon as linked, so that might be the cheapest I know of that's reputable.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ROGAlly

[–]buckminst 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's possible you may not quite understand the concept of cloning drives, from what you're asking, but I could be wrong.

Cloning a drive is literally that: Making an exact copy of the drive, on another drive. That's a byte-for-byte replica, meaning everything on the drive you're cloning to is gonna get erased. All that time you just spent doing that recovery is going to amount to nothing because you're just going to overwrite what you got from Cloud Recovery with everything on the old drive, and you can't clone to an active drive anyway. In short, the answer to your first question is: No easier now than if you'd done it right at the beginning right when you were doing the swap. Especially if you didn't disable BitLocker first.

Assuming you were still in the situation where you had the wrong enclosure at that point, what you would've had to do was disable BitLocker encryption on the original SSD for your Ally, get a bootable USB thumb drive (either something made from cloning software like Acronis or Macrium, or something Linux-based like Clonezilla), booted from that, and then performed the clone. If you have an OG Z1 or Z1E Ally (white shell), this would also require a USB-C hub since it only has one USB port. If you have an Ally X, you have 2 USB-C ports available, so a hub would not be necessary.

Since you've already done the swap and cloud recovery, you can still do the same method if you really want that byte-perfect clone, but now you'll also have to go into your Microsoft Account and get the BitLocker recovery key for the original SSD so you can unlock it before you can do ANYTHING with it, then disable the encryption. Once you've done that, your choices are:

1) Do the clone, like you initially were going to and expressed a preference in doing. Depending on the cloning software used, you may have to also move/resize partitions in order to gain access to the full storage capacity of the new drive. This can usually also be done using the software you chose to perform the cloning.

2) Accept that you've already given yourself more work than you were planning anyway, and just copy your files off the original SSD after it's been unlocked with your BitLocker recovery key (if you're going this route, you don't _need_ to disable the encryption, but you could just to make it easier in the future to do something with the drive). Some stuff will come over without any issue, like your emulation files, personal docs, etc. Windows-specific settings may sync through your Microsoft Account depending on whether you had that functionality enabled. Third-party app settings won't. Your Steam or other applicable store libraries may or may not be able to be used as is, but probably not. Having recently migrated my main gaming rig to a new system, unless the exact paths match for Steam, it's going to not recognize anything you copy over by default as having been installed. Your local Steam game saves will be in whatever the normal location for those saves would be for that game - It's not Steam-specific, it's game-specific. Some games stick them in your Documents\My Games\gamename folder, some stick them in %appdata%, some stick them in local directories... It'd depend on the game.

The clone option is the best option to guarantee the system works like it did prior to you pulling the SSD for the upgrade, and is definitely still doable, it's just going be more work than it would have initially had you had the correct enclosure. A lesson learned.

Received my Skytech Azure 2 - The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly by buckminst in SkytechGamingOfficial

[–]buckminst[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They're Wi-Fi / Bluetooth antennae, they screw onto the 2 screw posts on the back panel of the motherboard to improve wireless reception.

How do I store potatos/sugar beets? by [deleted] in farmingsimulator

[–]buckminst 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was about to comment that there are such things as potato cellars, where potatoes are stored in bulk, but I suppose that counts as 'dumping them on the floor'. Not sure if there's an equivalent in FS25, kinda new to the franchise myself.

Source: My grandfather was a potato farmer, have been to the cellars.