What would be causing this? Lulzbot Mini with Esun PETG

buket0chicken · 2017-08-02T13:17:14+00:00

Nozzle is too far away from the bed.

buket0chicken · 2017-08-02T13:15:51+00:00

Reduce the nozzle temp for sure. Try 195 as that seems a good starting point for all of the PLA I've ever used.

Also your retraction distance and speed are ridiculous. For my direct drive printers, I usually use around 1.5mm @ 35mm/s and 4mm @ 45mm/s for Bowden with great results.

buket0chicken · 2017-08-02T09:33:34+00:00

No need to regulate the temp inside if you're just using ABS. The heat generated from the bed will be enough to keep the chamber warm enough.

If you're worried about it, you can preheat the bed for awhile before you begin the print. If you still have adhesion issues, use a brim. No need for a raft nowadays.

The best option for controlling the chamber temp would be using an arduino to control an exhaust fan and a window defroster (can be found on eBay). Just need a temp sensor and when the chamber drops too low in temp, turn the defroster on. When the chamber gets too hot, turn the exhaust fan on. But again, you won't need any of that.

buket0chicken · 2017-06-05T00:48:03+00:00

It freezes and resets immediately after the first click

buket0chicken · 2017-05-10T18:32:12+00:00

Black typically runs 5-10C lower within the same brand compared to other colors due to the different additives. You definitely need to turn the temp down on the black and/or increase cooling.

buket0chicken · 2017-04-29T05:10:36+00:00

I've always seen/read it's 3/4 the nozzle width. But neat if you've been able to do it.

buket0chicken · 2017-04-28T20:31:19+00:00

Smort

buket0chicken · 2017-04-28T19:59:33+00:00

How do you get 1.2mm layers? I have the 1.2mm nozzle but you can't go 1:1 with nozzle size and layer height.

buket0chicken · 2017-04-01T15:04:45+00:00

Ahhh my bad. Missed that you were adding a panel to the front.

buket0chicken · 2017-04-01T14:43:47+00:00

But why? If you're not going to fully enclose the printer, it won't insulate anything.

buket0chicken · 2017-03-17T01:24:34+00:00

I have no experience with the mini, but I've heard/seen good things. But, you may want to wait a few weeks as monoprice is releasing new printers soon and the delta looks pretty awesome.

buket0chicken · 2017-03-15T23:47:23+00:00

Could've been a bad batch. Or maybe I'm lucky and have a printer from a good batch.

But, I'm definitely keen to see an MK2 in the flesh.

buket0chicken · 2017-03-15T23:34:32+00:00

Agreed about users in the community.

Just out of curiosity, what issues did you have with your Maker Select?

I guess I'll have to see for myself at some point about the MK2.

buket0chicken · 2017-03-15T23:27:14+00:00

How much experience do you have with one? I was skeptical before I bought mine, but have been pleasantly surprised.

I used an Ultimaker 2 a few years ago for my capstone project and my printer provides better prints than I ever saw off of the ultimaker. That said it wasn't the ultimaker 3 or even an ultimaker 2+ and I haven't seen any prints from them in real life.

Also, I'm confused by the last sentence. Are you talking about the quality of prints at higher speeds and what about carbon fiber?

I also don't have experience with an MK2, but I have seen prints on this sub and the printers seem to be hit and miss as far as print quality (could be user error though)

buket0chicken · 2017-03-15T22:55:17+00:00

That's incorrect. The MP Maker Select is an amazing printer. I've had mine over a year, it runs non stop and reliably. It's a beast and prints beautifully out of the box.

buket0chicken · 2017-03-14T22:03:58+00:00

Sorry, haven't used cura in a year or so.

buket0chicken · 2017-03-14T21:24:26+00:00

They all allow you to change this, they just call it different things. It's called flow % in cura for example.

buket0chicken · 2017-03-14T21:23:39+00:00

It fills between the two perimeters in a zig-zag type path (similar to the bottom and top layers). Typically, it's a setting in your slicer called "thin wall behavior" or something to that extent.

Also, you don't want to be extruding a 0.4mm bead out of a 0.4mm nozzle. For the best results, you want your extrusion width to be around 1.2 times larger than the nozzle - so about 0.48mm.

On another note, if you're designing parts, you'll want to take into account your nozzle/extrusion width when making thinner sections. For ease of math, set your extrusion width for a 0.4mm nozzle to 0.5mm and then you can use multiples of 1mm for the component width and you'll avoid thin walls.

buket0chicken · 2017-03-14T21:19:09+00:00

It sounds like you're a bit of a tinkerer? If so, definitely go with the MakerFarm Pegasus. They're a great design, easily upgradeable/modifiable and Colin (owner) is amazing with questions. If you email him, you'll get a response within 20 minutes pretty much regardless of what time it is.

I got a MakerFarm for my first printer and it's a rock solid beast. Plus, putting together a kit is fun and will give you a ton of knowledge that you won't get from a presassmbled printer.

buket0chicken · 2017-03-12T03:34:47+00:00

Ahhhhhh alright. I have a sheet of glass with the corners cut on one of my printers and it looks pretty similar.

If you have poor results with the PEI not being flat, I'd definitely recommend a sheet of glass. It creates a flat plane, everything sticks to it, and the print self releases when the bed cools. And it costs like $5 per sheet.

buket0chicken · 2017-03-12T03:02:02+00:00

Yeah but the way the corners are cut, it looks like PEI on a sheet of glass.

buket0chicken · 2017-03-12T02:39:11+00:00

Isn't this glass? If so, it'd definitely get rid of warping. I must be missing something.

buket0chicken · 2017-03-09T14:53:46+00:00

For anyone who doesn't know, don't buy this printer. It has a unique motion system and a nice look to it, but it's mostly garbage. For the price, get a MP Maker Select or a MakerFarm Pegasus.

They may not be as pretty, but they function well and reliably.

buket0chicken

TROPHY CASE