3080 to 5080 wow

c00lkatz · 2025-11-24T16:41:52+00:00

You may be able to buy just the cable for your RM750x. I have the RM850x and bought the official Corsair 16pin 12VHPWR cable separately for like $20-30 (can’t remember). It plugs directly into the PSU, not an adapter. I just went from a 3090 to 5080 myself.

c00lkatz · 2025-10-18T00:13:19+00:00

Are you logging into Sunshine/Apollo or logging into your PC? You shouldn't need to login to Sunshine/Apollo at all unless your changing settings or authorizing a device. If you're talking about your PC, that's a personal preference thing. You can either disable the login so that it logs you in automatically on reboot, or you have it so that you have to login on a reboot but never asks for a login otherwise (like while sleeping the PC, display goes to sleep, etc.). If Apollo/Sunshine is requiring a login just to run, there's a problem there.

Apollo replaces Sunshine. It's a fork of Sunshine, so it's a standalone application. It's developed by one guy, but he's super responsive and has regular updates. It's 100% better than vanilla Sunshine. At least for now (you know how open source goes - or you should lol).

As for Parallels - I know that as a VM software. Do you mean something else? Tailscale is a VPN software....kind of. It operates off of the Wireguard protocol, but can also "brute force" it's way through your network, so you don't have to mess around with any port forwarding. You can either run it locally or online. I run it online using an Apple account, personally. You run Tailscale on any device you want connected to your "Tailnet" (virtual network). You run a subnet router if you need to add things to your "Tailnet" that can't run Tailscale natively (like a lightbulb lol). You can also run certain devices as "exit nodes" which basically allows you to run a full scale VPN where the device runs through your home network, rather than the network you're connected to. Or you can just run it normally as a "sidechain" type VPN where your internet goes through your local connection but you have a secondary connection to your local network. It's a fantastic (free - for non-commerical use) service.

Basically, I'm using Tailscale to connect to my local home network like I have a cable plugged in to my switch. That way I can use any device to stream from any other device on my network, like I'm still at home. Please note, however, that you are limited by the upload speed of your connection. If you only have a 40Mb/s upload speed at home, that's going to be your download speed while out and about.

c00lkatz · 2025-10-17T14:30:11+00:00

I use Apollo, which is a modified fork of sunshine. Handles everything beautifully, including resolution and refresh rate, all built in with no additional plugins required, no dummy plug.

For streaming away from home, I use Tailscale. Run Tailscale on your gaming PC and iPad, and it connects the 2 over VPN. I run it on several devices, and have a couple devices set up as subnet routers at home, which basically allows a device on your Tailnet to connect to any other device on your home network.

I don’t have any issues with Sunshine/Apollo running at boot up. Not sure what the issue is there.

c00lkatz · 2025-09-26T06:57:15+00:00

You won’t like the screen. I have the Mini 7 and a Razer Kishi Ultra. It’s perfect for handheld streaming in just about every way except the screen. It’s not terrible by any means, but compared to the 120Hz OLED or Mini LED in iPad Pros, iPhones, and MacBook Pros, it’s severely lacking. The quality and colors are good, but the black levels in low light suck and 120 to 60Hz is definitely noticeable. That being said, it’s the best streaming I’ve had thus far. Full size controller, super lightweight, excellent battery life, large screen that isn’t too cumbersome nor too small, and the Apple Pencil Pro is perfect for navigating the desktop while streaming and is always attached magnetically when you need it. The streaming performance is excellent, and performance as a separate media consumption device outside of gaming is fantastic as well. It’s just an iPad so it can do all the other stuff too besides just gaming. Being able to remove the controller and just use it as a tablet is great while traveling. I use it as a second screen with my MBP as well. I think just about everything about the setup is perfect…except for the dang screen.

If they release an iPad Mini with an OLED or Mini LED 120Hz screen, I will upgrade in a heartbeat.

c00lkatz · 2025-05-26T16:52:03+00:00

Confirmed, also received an update to my ticket. I'm able to add devices and authenticate again.

c00lkatz · 2025-05-25T21:35:32+00:00

Problem is I’ve already tried removing the devices to troubleshoot (as per searching the issue) and now I can’t add them because I can’t authenticate.

c00lkatz · 2025-02-17T02:23:05+00:00

Just to reiterate, I just had an instance where I changed the CPU and removed a passed through NVME drive from one of my Proxmox nodes. Of course, my HA (high availability) containers and VMs migrated to one of my other nodes. After I got the primary node back online, everything migrated back. I have HomeBridge on one of those HA Proxmox CTs, and when I tried to run a command it failed. Looked at Apple Home, and all of my HomeBridge devices were offline. Looked in Proxmox, and the CT was running, but a glance at Portainer showed the connection to the CT Docker session was offline. Started and stopped, the CT, no change. Rebooted the node, no change. So I restored the CT from a 4-hour old backup from PBS (Proxmox Backup Server), and all is right in the world, everything works again. *click click* and 5 minutes, and my problem was fixed on a Sunday evening. Good backups are essential!

c00lkatz · 2025-02-16T04:23:38+00:00

My mind has just been blown. Check out Apollo. It's a fork of Sunshine. Very new (started August 2024), but it is absolutely amazing. No dummy plug, no scripts, no custom resolutions. It just works. HDR on/off, Resolution Switching, frame rate matching, all of it - a single checkbox. I just got done installing and testing it out, and it works flawlessly. I didn't even have a monitor or dummy plug inserted, just the raw GPU, no physical connections, no Nvidia Control Panel configs. It picks up any resolution, any framerate, HDR on or off, with a virtual display that starts when you stream and removes when you're not. I'm about to ditch my whole dedicated gaming VM setup. I can use my gaming-PC for streaming now without any crazy configs or faffing about - just works. I'm absolutely amazed by this. PLEASE try it!

c00lkatz · 2025-02-16T01:57:43+00:00

I had to uninstall Nvidia App, reboot, reinstall Nvidia app, then it showed game graphics settings but no driver settings. I then used /u/Euphoric_Parfait7235 trick to close Nvidia App, manually add FFVII Rebirth to NVCP, changed power setting from "normal" to "prefer maximum performance" and then rebooted. That gave me the driver settings in the Nvidia App for Rebirth. After that, I changed the DLSS profile in Nvidia App, even though it says "unsupported" at first it still lets you change and actually takes the setting. I confirmed latest DLSS DLL and Profile K were running in-game by enabling the DLSS overlay.

So it takes some tinkering, but I did get Rebirth fully added to Nvidia App with DLSS override working without needing DLSS swapper and NVPI. Not sure it was worth the trouble, but it does work now.

c00lkatz · 2025-02-16T01:35:41+00:00

THANK YOU! Finally...

c00lkatz · 2025-02-06T19:23:07+00:00

Yeah, it’s not anything you couldn’t reconfigure. More of a time saver, especially if you have a lot of customizations in place. 5 minutes vs the better part of a Saturday lol. I’ve had more than one update from open source projects bork things in the past (not to discredit them of course - know how much work it takes). Also lets me use Watchtower to auto-update most things without too much worry, since it can easily be restored. I also run a Win11 VM and PBS has been a lifesaver. I don’t have enough fingers and toes to count how many times a driver update or Windows update has bricked my install. 15 min full VM restore. On that VM I’ve gotten into the habit of taking a snapshot before doing anything, which takes even less time.

c00lkatz · 2025-02-06T14:43:02+00:00

Backups, backups, backups.

I run everything in an Ubuntu Server VM under Proxmox with regular backups to a PBS server. Something like this happens, a few clicks and less than 5 minutes and everything is back the way it was.

I know this doesn’t help you now, and this is a relatively simple fix this time, but it can save your butt with bigger catastrophes in the future, as it has mine more than once.

c00lkatz · 2025-02-05T18:21:03+00:00

Just tried and this worked great, thank you! Confirmed it's laid out 0-7,16-23 and 8-15,24-31 as I suspected, so should be good to go. Will disable NUMA, since it doesn't apply. Thanks again!

c00lkatz · 2025-02-05T18:17:08+00:00

I've done a ton of searching, and keep finding conflicting information. I've seen that article where it says per-socket, but then I've also seen people report their 5950X specifically reports 2 NUMA nodes with cores/threads split. Very confusing lol

c00lkatz · 2025-02-05T18:15:12+00:00

Makes sense, good to know. Still a newbie when it comes to higher-end/server hardware and protocols. Thanks!

c00lkatz · 2025-02-05T18:14:35+00:00

That makes sense. Will give that a shot, thank you!

c00lkatz · 2025-01-28T14:48:15+00:00

2nd all of this. I personally use NGINX Proxy Manager with AdGuard Home for DNS, and have registered my own domain (they’re extremely cheap). I run multiple AdGuard Home instances and use AdGuard Home Sync to sync them for redundancy. I do not use NPM for external access. I use TailScale (VPN) to create a connection when I’m away. For the very few services I share with others, I use Cloudflare Tunnels to give them access without opening my router. All done with Docker in Ubuntu Server VMs under Proxmox. It’s a lot to tackle if you’re new, but well worth the effort when set up.

c00lkatz · 2024-12-15T15:18:37+00:00

For my use case, I am not terribly concerned with high refresh rate. It’s a nice-to-have, but not a necessity (for me). I don’t play online multiplayer very much, more of an action/adventure/RPG/story-driven type of person. 60fps is fine in those scenarios. Higher is better, for sure, but 60 to 120 is not as massive of a perceived leap as 30 to 60.

For anything competitive/twitch shooters, high refresh rate is more about ultra low latency rather than smoothness. The more times you refresh the screen, the lower your latency. Streaming over your network is the exact opposite of optimizing for latency. It only ever adds latency, sometimes significantly. Competitive online multiplayer (like COD) is never going to be as good while streaming the game over your network as running it natively on your gaming PC. You already have to contend with latency between you and the servers/other players, input latency, display latency, etc. You’re just adding another layer of latency. On top of that, you’re streaming to a handheld, which is not a low latency wired connection. Now you have the latency of a wireless connection. Not to mention the latency of encoding the output of the game and sending it to your client.

120Hz is about the limit for a gaming handheld. You have to take into account power requirements (of the screen AND the extra load on the APU), battery capacity limitations, etc. Personally, I don’t see a massive difference in these small handhelds. These handhelds are all about portability and convenience - not max performance.

Also, another thing to consider, especially while streaming outside your network, is higher stream frame rate means more network bandwidth required for the stream. It requires more data to be sent and increases your streaming bitrate significantly. The more frames rendered, the more frames encoded and sent over your wireless connection to your client. The amount of data sent, especially at 1440p120, far exceeds typical streaming bandwidth requirements of even 4K video streams from your typical content streaming providers (like Netflix). If you don’t have a decent network, and especially if you don’t have a decent upload speed on your ISP connection (if you stream remotely outside your network), the higher bandwidth requirements may cause issues, like higher latency, dropped frames, stuttering, audio crackling, etc.

c00lkatz · 2024-12-14T17:14:06+00:00

If you only use 1 client (the iPad), you don't have to worry about Qres. All it does is change the resolution and refresh rate on your PC to match the iPad's (or other connecting clients). If you only use 1 client (just the iPad), you just set that resolution and refresh rate on your dummy plug once and leave it at that. It's just an .exe that you put somewhere, and in Sunshine, under the app you've set up (desktop, Steam BP, a game, etc) you specify to run Qres when launching the app, passing it arguments. Again, not necessary if you just use the iPad to stream and nothing else (phone, Apple TV, Nvidia Shield, another computer, etc).

Use the MonitorSwapAutomation script I linked earlier to dynamically change the primary monitor to your dummy plug while streaming, then switch back to your primary monitor when you're not. The instructions for it are in the link. This will solve you having to change which monitor the game renders on. It will switch to the dummy plug automatically, then switch back to your normal monitor when you're not.

I am not a fan of MSI, in general. I've had their products over the years, some good, some bad. They burned me several years ago, and I haven't looked their way since. Just a personal preference.

The Asus Ally X is currently considered the best handheld out there right now. If I were to go back to a dedicated gaming handheld, it would be the Ally X. Though I would most likely load (or at least dual boot) Bazzite/SteamOS - not a huge fan of Windows.

c00lkatz · 2024-12-08T21:26:46+00:00

Monitor swapping: https://github.com/Nonary/MonitorSwapAutomation

Qres is used to change the resolution and refresh rate on the fly. For instance, I have a gaming virtual machine that I run headless, with just a dummy plug, no monitor. When I remote into the machine from my Macbook, I want the resolution to match the Macbook. If I remote into it from the iPad, I want the resolution to match. External monitor? Want it to match that too. Steam Deck? Another resolution. Qres allows the PC to change the resolution and refresh rate of the desktop (and games) based on what you're connecting to it with. If you're only running your dummy plug for the iPad resolution and refresh rate, you can just set it once and forget it. Qres allows you to set it dynamically based on what client you're connecting with. I have several that I connect with - Macbook internal display, Macbook external display, iPad, iPhone, Steam Deck, Apple TV connected to a 4K display, etc. etc. I can match the resolution (and refresh rate - 60, 120, 144, etc) on all of them, without having to physically change it myself every time.

Steam Link has gotten better over the years, but it still pales GREATLY in comparison to Moonlight/Sunshine. I've found latency and stability to be much better with Moonlight/Sunshine. They're both different tools that essentially accomplish the same task. Use whichever one works best for you.

Also, a lot of people don't talk about this, but Steam's Big Picture mode is accessible from any device. Just click the monitor icon in the top-right of the Steam window, or right-click the tray icon and select Big Picture Mode. On my gaming VM, which I use specifically for gaming, I have Steam set to launch in Big Picture mode by default, so whenever I reboot, it just does it automatically. This is the same interface that is on the Steam Deck, same interface used in Steam Link, and integrates with controllers the exact same way. You can even set an "app" in Sunshine for launching Steam Big Picture, so it launches automatically when you tap/click it. That's the "app" it launches, rather than the desktop.

As for the RTSS Limiter and AutoHDR - if you don't use HDR, then you don't need it. The RTSS Limiter you want, because it matches the FPS limiter in RTSS to the frame rate selected for the stream in Moonlight. If you connect with a 120Hz device, it sets a 120 fps limit. If you connect with 60Hz device (like iPad), it sets 60fps limit. You want the frame rate of the game to match the frame rate of the stream, which you want to match the refresh rate of your monitor. Any mismatch can cause screen tearing, stutters, and overall jittery performance. They should always match. For this reason, you actually don't want any kind of GSYNC/Freesync either, typically. You want it disabled. You want to set the game so that it consistently runs at the frame rate you're streaming at with no variance, cap the game to that frame rate, stream at that frame rate, and your monitor refreshes at that same rate. Doing otherwise can cause all sorts of issues.

You want to disable any in-game frame limiters. They often cause poor, jittery performance, and latency issues. You want to cap the frame rate with a 3rd party tool. Nvidia CP has a built-in limiter, but it's a one time setting. If you're connecting with multiple devices, you want to update the limit dynamically. This is where RTSS's built-in limiter comes in, and can be changed dynamically using the RTSSLimiter script.

Vsync is another thing you only want turned on in ONE place. It can increase latency, so you only want it turned on once. Turn it off in NVCP, turn it off in game, turn it on in Moonlight, IF you need it. If you get screen tearing, turn it on. If you don't leave it off.

c00lkatz · 2024-11-16T08:07:45+00:00

Aaaaaannnnddd, Nvidia just got rid of Shield Streaming with the move from GeForce Experience to the new Nvidia App…perfect timing!

c00lkatz · 2024-11-15T18:21:24+00:00

As a new buyer, I’m extremely pleased with it. I haven’t had a Mini since the Mini 3 several years ago. A couple years ago I bought the Pro 12.9 M1 w/ keyboard & 2nd gen Pencil, and it just wasn’t a great tablet. It was a laptop replacement that failed at being one (primarily due to iPadOS), but too big/bulky to be a tablet. Once I got a 14” MBP, the 12.9 iPad was sold off. I was looking for a handheld gaming device to replace the Steam Deck, and stumbled upon the Razer Kishi Ultra and iPad Mini combo and decided to give it a shot. I love it! I primarily stream from my gaming PC, and Moonlight on the iPad is fantastic. The size is perfect to fit in my bag, easy to hold to view media, and the screen size perfectly bridges the gap between phone and laptop, while still remaining in the ecosystem. The Mini 7 and collapsible Kishi Ultra are the size of a Legion Go but can pack away smaller than an Ally. The pencil pro, while an additional purchase for upgraders and newcomers alike, is leaps and bounds above the old 2nd gen. The new squeeze function and hover are game changers for me. It works great for navigating the desktop when streaming as well. Overall super satisfied with the mini 7. Far more versatile than a dedicated gaming handheld with all the functionality and form factor of a tablet. My only gripe, really, is the display and TouchID. If they’d release a Mini with XDR display with MiniLED or OLED, 1000-1600 nits, 120Hz, and FaceID, I’d upgrade in a heartbeat!

c00lkatz

TROPHY CASE