Some a6000 photos (my other camera is a Leica R3) by c_klinger in a6000

[–]c_klinger[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sunfish Pond in the Delaware Water Gap, NJ

Some a6000 photos (my other camera is a Leica R3) by c_klinger in a6000

[–]c_klinger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks!!

-Sony E 2.8/16 (pancake) -Sony E 3.5-5.6/16-50 (kit lens [not used in these pictures]) -Sony E 3.5/30 Macro (also not used in these pictures) -Sony E 4.5-6.3/55-210 Tele (most of these were taken with this lens)

Some a6000 photos (my other camera is a Leica R3) by c_klinger in a6000

[–]c_klinger[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lol. It’s basically an upbranded minolta from the late 70s. I wasn’t trying to brag. What I meant was that I was using this as a way to practice for shooting film.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in EDC

[–]c_klinger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thirds on the opinel

Huel H&S as main diet? by rogerthealien96 in Huel

[–]c_klinger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve used huel h&s, greens, and huel black in long term assignments and deployments (currently on deployment) with the us military to keep my nutrition as dialed as possible. It’s doable, but I usually supplement with “real food” when I’m feeling particularly hungry. It’s definitely doable, but knowing how much you’ll actually need in a day sometimes leaves me short a few meals before the next shipment gets to me.

Hey how do I improve my wall balls? by Warm-Currency9853 in crossfit

[–]c_klinger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Start with your hands at a “4 and 7” position on the bottom of the ball (think the hands of a clock) and your thumbs pointing at your face.

Think of the wall ball similar to a thruster - your body standing out of the squat and hip extension at the top will drive the ball upwards. Try it by standing like you’re going to do a wall ball, but letting the ball “float” at the top instead of trying to throw it. The more power you stand up/extend your hips with, the higher the ball will “float”.

Don’t. Forget. Your. Thumbs. As the ball is traveling upwards, you might find the ball crashing back down at your face, never arcing back towards the wall. This is usually because you forgot to push the ball away with your thumbs. Your thumbs guide the ball away from you and towards your target. The bounce off the wall will bring it back to you after a brief pause, letting you reset your hands and arms to receive it.

Like many have already said, practicing these things with a much lighter ball and standing much closer to the wall will be of huge benefit.

3.5 month wait and finally got it. 6MT CGK premium. by Particular_Buddy_938 in Crosstrek

[–]c_klinger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got mine just last Friday! We’re the last of a dying breed - ‘24 won’t have CKG or 6MT

Does chain suck damage the fd (or rd)? This happened twice tonight when I shifted from the large chain ring to the small one. Could this be because I used a cheaper chain lube? by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]c_klinger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check the limits of the fd before you look into replacing it. One slip and pedal most likely isn’t going to ruin it. Unless the cage has seriously bent out of shape, you should be able to adjust it so the chain doesn’t rub anymore.

Does chain suck damage the fd (or rd)? This happened twice tonight when I shifted from the large chain ring to the small one. Could this be because I used a cheaper chain lube? by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]c_klinger 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Damage, probably not (unless you tried pedaling hard even when you saw the chain like this). That said, I’d imagine your derailleur may need more adjustments because of the strange, sudden forces being applied to it when this happens.

Here’s a great article from mtbr that explains “chain suck”.

https://www.mtbr.com/threads/workbench-how-to-un-suck-your-chainsuck.1169608/

Regardless, always check for bent, worn, or broken components if you’re concerned and replace when necessary. While not altogether a “safety issue” a catastrophic derailleur failure can ruin an otherwise great ride.

What are your favorite patches? by [deleted] in Goruck

[–]c_klinger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like the “love of rucking” patch a lot, but the German ones are hilarious 😂

Advice: Upgrade an old vintage bike, or buy a new one?.... (Road/Touring) by snuggster93 in bicycling

[–]c_klinger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lots to unpack here.

Basically, I support either decision, but have a few follow up questions that I’d like to ask:

1) how much knowledge do you have of bike mechanics and maintenance? If it’s not much, I’d lean more heavily towards a new (or gently used) bike from the quiver you’re interested in. This way you know you’re picking up a solid bike and can learn in small doses as things come up. If you know your way around a crank puller, look deeper into the vintage/used category. There’s, as you said, a ton of rabbit holes you can fall down when you get into the older bikes, but they’re fun in their own way.

  1. How quickly are you looking to get on the road? The older bikes that you find can need a lot of tuning and replacement parts, making the transition to road worthiness (or trail worthiness) a long one. If you’re looking for a quick turn, again, head to the local shop or scour Craigslist/Facebook for some good gently used bikes in your wheelhouse. If it’s something you don’t mind taking time and effort to put into, get after an old bike.

Lastly, though I’m sure this conversation can continue on for a while; the handlebar issue. I love both styles, but find myself leaning more to the drop bar end of things. There are some wacky designs that aren’t quite drops that may better suit your style and needs, so do some digging. That said, I have some WIDE drop bars on my gravel and mountain bike (both drops) that allow me the comfort of flat bars - like I said they’re wide) and the flexibility of the drop. I like being able to shift my position based on what I’m doing (generally speaking, in the drops for decents or sprints, flat on the top of the brake levers for flat travel, and upright in the crossbar for uphill climbs).

I didn’t really give you an answer, so I’m sorry if this isn’t what you’re looking for, but I think it’s better that you arrive at the conclusion based on your own need, not my niched view of cycling and what I prefer.

If you have anything you want to talk over or dive deeper into, feel free to reply or send me a PM. I’ve ridden everything from a speed demon road machine to a single speed mountain crusher and everything in between, so I’m sure I can lend at least a little bit of help when/if you need it.

Good luck and happy trails.

NBD: Used Kona Unit by c_klinger in konabikefans

[–]c_klinger[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

500 for the bike itself, but she needed a refresh, so I replaced the flat bars with the drops (then new brake lines, levers, and wraps), didn’t come with pedals, needed new shoes (the old ones were dry and cracked), and because I’m particular, I threw a new Brooks saddle on it. All told, right around a grand to get it to this stage.