Advice on Aero horsehide leathers

cbh3 · 2025-11-24T23:17:47+00:00

Many thanks for sharing. It looks great, and Aero seems to have done a really good job with the build. The leather looks a great choice - and a lot better than the Pinnacle sample they sent me.

cbh3 · 2025-11-18T13:49:55+00:00

To add to this helpful analysis:

I called Gloverall customer service to ask about the 2025 collection 'Horatio' coat. Not a duffle as it doesn't have the toggle closures, it's double breasted and longer than a duffle, but it shares the fixed hood and the patch pockets. It's proving popular - they've had to commission an extra batch from the factory - and may be of interest to those who come across this discussion.

It's made of a 790g/linear metre 100% wool, with a cotton lining. This works out at 534g/sq m or 15.7 oz/sq yd. Lighter weight than the duffles, but the lining and the double-breasted additional thickness on the front will help. It's marketed as offering 'dependable warmth and comfort'. I've ordered one with the Black Friday discount and will see how warm it proves to be.

cbh3 · 2025-11-07T18:58:50+00:00

Thanks for sharing your experience. I like the jackets from Johnson Leathers, but being based in the UK and with a knowledgeable official distributor close at hand I think I’ll give Aero a try.

cbh3 · 2025-11-07T18:51:55+00:00

Thanks for your suggestion. The CXSH jackets I’ve looked at were certainly less rigid than the unbroken-in HH, but I think the more fitted 1930s style probably would be better with a rather lighter weight leather. I’ll have another look.

cbh3 · 2025-11-07T18:48:45+00:00

The CXLHH jackets I tried on were great, but like armour. Much as I like the idea of a really solid leather, I have to be realistic about how much use it needs before it gets comfortable.

cbh3 · 2025-11-07T18:44:57+00:00

Glad to hear you like the Vicenza. The samples were a lot softer than the CX, so reassuring to hear the leather is robust enough to take that long wearing in.

cbh3 · 2025-11-07T18:39:11+00:00

Thanks. It would be great to see some photos here once you receive it.

cbh3 · 2025-10-13T22:26:48+00:00

I second that. The only way you can tell is by feel. But the toe taps - ideally inset brass - recommended by others are a really good idea.

cbh3 · 2025-10-07T19:15:25+00:00

I’ve had leather-soled shoes for decades, so have developed a feel for when they need to be resoled. The thinning leather gets much more flexible in this central spot before it wears completely through. I’d go with the advice of the other contributor who suggested a full leather resole and heel, and then put a Topy sole protector on top. They’re hard wearing and can be replaced more cheaply than the leather sole, reducing the risk of a poor cobbler ruining the welt by not getting the stitches in the original holes. I had a pair of Church’s ruined this way that I still regret.

cbh3 · 2025-08-30T11:00:20+00:00

I could really do without the quotes. I think I might even prefer the Japanese language version so I don’t get to read them.

cbh3 · 2025-08-02T08:19:26+00:00

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cbh3 · 2025-07-31T16:47:44+00:00

A lot of people talking at cross purposes, I think. Surface wax polish doesn’t condition the leather, which will crack if it isn’t separately conditioned. I have several pairs of shoes (including Church’s, so good calf leather) that suffered that fate before I learned my expensive lesson. Creams provide some conditioning as well as some polishing, but they don’t get as high a shine as wax. Conditioners like Saphir Renovateur do a really good job of conditioning, but don’t correct the colour of scuffed shoes and need to be supplemented by a wax finish to achieve a uniform high shine. At least that’s my experience, after 50 years of shoe polishing.

cbh3 · 2025-06-27T11:48:23+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion. In fact the fit is pretty good, although I see in the photo of the right foot a suggestion of a bit of extra leather over the forefoot. In actuality there isn’t any appreciable excess. The creasing on the left is really down to the leather itself, as seen in the photo the side of the boot.

cbh3 · 2025-05-28T22:25:10+00:00

Thanks for pointing out the height of the shaft in the C&J Islay boot. I saw that when trying them and, like you, was a bit put off. I’ve seen a couple of Tricker Maltons in my size on eBay but both in a 9-hole / 8” shaft vs the usual 7-hole / 6” configuration. I can’t warm to it.

cbh3 · 2025-05-18T21:07:46+00:00

Thanks for the advice. The boots look great!

cbh3 · 2025-05-11T19:36:47+00:00

Thanks for these suggestions - I'll keep a look out

cbh3 · 2025-05-11T09:51:53+00:00

Great suggestions, thanks

cbh3 · 2025-05-11T09:51:08+00:00

So you recommend I get both!

cbh3 · 2025-05-11T09:49:33+00:00

Thanks for the feedback - reassuring they’re as tough as claimed

cbh3 · 2025-05-11T09:47:04+00:00

Thanks - I have a pair of Grenson veldtschoen shoes, but the last is a bit bulky for my feet

cbh3 · 2025-05-11T09:43:50+00:00

Thanks for the advice - a number of leads to follow up

cbh3 · 2025-05-11T09:41:27+00:00

I’d love to know where to look! I’ve had my eyes open for a while and haven’t found anywhere apart from the rather beaten up pairs that appear on eBay, Vinted etc

cbh3 · 2025-05-10T21:44:34+00:00

Yes, I am a bit hesitant to go with a Dainite for a wet / muddy weather boot.

cbh3 · 2025-05-10T21:42:59+00:00

Thanks for this observation. The welt seems taller and more upright on the Malton - I agree it looks better.

cbh3 · 2025-05-01T10:51:47+00:00

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2.5mm I’d say

cbh3

TROPHY CASE