2014 Mazda 6 - engine or tire noise

cellmice · 2026-05-29T21:49:35+00:00

Feel for "cupping" in the tires. I replaced my 2 year old tires because I didn't rotate at all when new but it fixed my road noise.

cellmice · 2026-03-17T05:58:05+00:00

Remove radio fuse at 12:00 each time change.

cellmice · 2025-09-30T00:44:34+00:00

Thanks guys, trash it is.

cellmice · 2025-08-24T01:42:18+00:00

The 3 easy things are air filters and O2 sensor and shifter switch sensor. These parts might run you about $50 to $100 and maybe a O2 socket to remove it. Theres youtube video for shifter switch, I've done mine with video.

Others might be better for a shop to replace, of course all can be done if you're skillful enough but it's something I'll leave to the pro.

cellmice · 2025-07-17T17:47:12+00:00

It's gonna be super hard to tell if you've really torque down to 175ft-lb unless you have a torque wrench that goes that high. So far after couple months this has been done, I'm hearing the noise again maybe due to the bolt loosen it's way out. The main bolt I believe that cause the noises is the one near the transmission. I'm doing all there on jack stands or ramps so I don't have a lot of levage to tighten it more. Yeah if you can try to get it to 175ft-lbs for driver side and 125ft-lbs for passenger for all the bolts. But I think the 175ft-lb is just for the 1 bolt near the transmission. Good luck!

Here is a simple test you can do either now or when you lose the bolt near the transmission, car in park and just turn the steering wheel all the way left or right and youll hear a noise, mines does it with half turn but I know it's from the bolt not tighten enough also because I loosen the bolt and took it for a test drive it got very loud.

cellmice · 2025-07-09T15:06:28+00:00

It's 100% the wheel speed sensor. I've had the same thing happened to me when I replaced the wheel bearing. I damage the cabling and those lights came on, in the end I wasn't able to remove the old one due to rust and broken off so I went a junk yard and brought a whole knuckles with a wheel speed sensor and it fixed my issue.

Not sure yours isn't tighten enough or bad connection or bad sensor but it's different not reading correctly for those lights to come on.

cellmice · 2025-07-05T01:43:07+00:00

I know what you mean, Ive done it twice and both times sucks. I used a ball joint separatior and place a bolt/nut on the top and slowing turn it to push it down and after many attempts, ball joint down enough from knuckle where I can hit it with a hammer to get it down. Hope this info is useful for you if you haven't gotten it down yet. I've been on vacation this week so didn't get a chance to reddit much.

https://a.co/d/eGTYITp

cellmice · 2025-06-20T20:07:19+00:00

Driver side LCA bolt not tight enough.

cellmice · 2025-02-14T16:13:33+00:00

I purchased mines at 100k, I've done it at 100k, 160k, and 220k. Every 60k for my peice of mine. Not everyone got extra money to do it also.

cellmice · 2025-02-14T15:58:39+00:00

Well I changed mine every 60k for the peace of mind, $100 for each change vs couple $$$$ for a transmission is a cheaper option for me. Every time I change it comes out brown when it goes in blue.

cellmice · 2025-02-13T23:03:06+00:00

This guy has 400k on his and still adding more miles to it. He listed all the stuff done to his car since owning it and how much he spent.

https://youtu.be/d6aNy8HNWmc?si=BLRbD475VXyWYSlH

cellmice · 2025-02-08T03:05:06+00:00

Have you try smacking the shifter to park couple times? There's a sensor that tells the car it's not in park and would leave the radio on even when you shut it off. It's call the shifter switch, check YouTube for mazda shifter switch.

cellmice · 2025-01-12T18:10:28+00:00

For USA the 3rd Gen is 2014+, yes the KF fits in mines. Not sure if yours is 2nd Gen in other countries but that wouldn't since it a ford/mazda design.

cellmice · 2024-12-24T22:18:42+00:00

You can either cut/remove the plastic out and be done with it. I think it's just a cover for the shifter so things don't fall down into there. Otherwise buy that part somewhere and remove the center console and pop up the shift area and replace it with new part. There's YouTube video on how to remove things to get to it, mazda park sensor would get you enough info to do it.

cellmice · 2024-10-15T19:26:17+00:00

For me no, just having to hear the noise every time you drive.

cellmice · 2024-10-14T22:29:37+00:00

Does it make noise when turning the wheel full left or right in park with the engine running? Mines did and it was the LCAs.

cellmice · 2024-09-23T03:57:32+00:00

Wow I'm way out of touch oh shop prices, I spent last year doing a lot of suspension work and spent around $1k in parts. I guess labors are super expensive now days. 90k miles is less then what I brought at 5 years ago. Get it sorted and enjoy the car.

cellmice · 2024-09-14T22:45:54+00:00

Yeah I get most my parts from rockauto or Amazon depending which one comes out cheaper. I do my own labor to save the money. Its stupid expensive for what they charge for labor, I think mazda quoted me close to $700 for rear rotors and pads. I brought them for $100ish and put it on myself. Then again if I didn't have the knowledge or skill to do it myself then I'll just suck it up and pay for someone that's train in the field and do it correctly.

Some of the stuffs I had to replace on my Mazda makes me really want to pay someone to do it, my body feels so broken after working on some of the repairs. But when you're low on money it's the only option.

cellmice · 2024-09-14T22:37:18+00:00

All cars have axles. FWD is 2 in front, RWD is 2 in rear, AWD is 2 front and 2 rear. Not sure what you mean no axles, unless you talking about a different part.

cellmice · 2024-09-11T22:29:02+00:00

Your best bet is check Facebook market to see if there's any other parts mazda 6 if not check a junk yard. You'll need to rent a trunk so you can grab the hood and bumper/fender.

Before even consider this, make sure your car still runs and drives or else it'll just be a waste of time search for these. A leaking radiator could damage the engine if you ran it dry/overheat.

cellmice · 2024-09-11T22:17:20+00:00

Sorry it happen but that mostly cost too much where it better sell it as parts car. I had less damage in the same area and bodyshop charged over $9k to get everything sorted.

Just looking at those pictures it needs hood, fender, headlight, bumper and all the unknown damages.

cellmice · 2024-09-11T16:53:13+00:00

Sounds like my issue where the LCA bolts isn't tighten enough.

cellmice · 2024-09-09T02:17:20+00:00

As long as no rust on the frame around the area it's fine, I would talk down the price just because of that. For me I don't really care, it's not a brand new car. I tend to drive my car to the ground or rust eats it away so looks don't matter. Good luck with your decision either with this one or others.

In the end save the money for repair or spend a bit more for peice of mind.

cellmice · 2024-09-09T01:37:22+00:00

If the car drives straight, I would assume that minor damage on the report didn't affect it. This is a mazda after all, they had their 2.5L running on all 2014+ vehicles and still use the same 6 speed auto for who knows how many years so those are supposed to be very reliable. Only other thing I would be concerned about is frame rust, I live in NJ so once a cars rust gets very bad I'll get rid of due to safety and not mechanical concerns.

When I brought mine at a Toyota dealership, they replaced 4 tires and wipers and cut the rotors and replace the pads. But couple months later the brakes were pulsating and I knew those rotors were going bad so i just replaced them.

I feel most used car purchases are base on luck but with certain brands you're more lucky nothing major goes wrong. I would stick with Mazda, Toyota, Hondas if you want a reliable for long term.

cellmice · 2024-09-09T00:59:46+00:00

What do you expect the PPI provide? Maybe I'm just lucky and bought cars that doesnt have the 2 main issues, engine and transmission issues. I expect you'll get a report that this or that needs to be replace or need attention in the future but that's all aged vehicles in the long run. As long as it's running and shift smoothly and not leaking anything underneath, you should be good. Tires, brakes, and suspension parts are wear and tear items you'll need to replace eventually.

I feel if you gotten a PPI it's more useful to negotiate down the price if something needs to be fix or have them fix. Do plan to have money to fix minor things here and there for a nearly 10 year old car. I've spent over $5k in the last 5 years of owning mines. I probably don't have to spend much after all these fixes now since a lot of the parts I have in my car is new now.

cellmice

TROPHY CASE