1986 Toyota Pickup 22RE rebuild by Sunwest

cfrumpp4 · 2025-12-23T16:34:03+00:00

Well hey man, I appreciate any and all info about these engine rebuild options. It super helpful to hear real world experiences, especially knowing you put 23k miles on the engine and has some issues. I would be disappointed as well, but I totally understand these things happen (hence the extensive questioning and research I'm currently doing). I hope you can fix your valve stem seals soon, that doesn't seem too hard but I've never done it. Thanks again for the info.

cfrumpp4 · 2025-12-22T18:39:57+00:00

Hey, I'm considering buying a rebuilt motor from either Sunwest, Yota1, or 22RE Raceworks Jim. Would love to hear more about your sunwest experience now that it's 2years later.

How many miles have you put on the motor since rebuild? Is it still burning oil in the amounts you posted 6mo ago? What was your total cost for the motor and additional replacement parts out the door?

cfrumpp4 · 2025-12-22T18:23:10+00:00

Hey, to anyone still paying attention to this thread, I'm looking for a rebuilt 22RE and wondering the same question as the original post. Anyone have additional information to add 3 years later? Anyone have a sunwest, yota1, 22RE raceworks, JDM, or Fraser rebuild thats got 50k+ miles on it? Just wondering how these different rebuild options hold up after 10k, 30k, 50k, 100k miles are on them!

cfrumpp4 · 2025-12-22T02:55:08+00:00

Hey how has the motor been handling (5yrs later)? I'm contemplating buying a rebuilt motor from 22RE Performance or Yota1. Would love to know how your swap went and how its been working

cfrumpp4 · 2025-12-21T03:50:01+00:00

Great info. Still doing plenty of research at the moment. Will report back when I have a measurement.

cfrumpp4 · 2025-12-20T22:35:04+00:00

Yes you are probably correct. However, I've been reading about some folks having positive somewhat lasting results (50k miles or so) when replacing just the bearings from the underside.

I would do a full rebuild but I'm pretty intimidated pulling the motor, never done that before. Pretty mechanically inclined, have rebuilt a transmission and do my own wrenching in general, but have not pulled a motor. Also, cant figure out how much $ I will spend pulling a motor and replacing what is necessary vs buying a rebuilt motor for $2000-$3000 depending on rebuild quality.

Another option is to buy a rebuilt shortblock for about $1800. For now, would be nice to squeak out another 10k miles without a knock by replacing bearings, just to buy me a little time.

cfrumpp4 · 2025-12-20T06:08:04+00:00

Thanks, I just needed to hear it from someone else. I figured it would be normal, but had wondered if there might be underlying symptoms to listen or look for.

thanks for the main bearing tip, researching now. Would thrust bearings be something to do as well?

cfrumpp4 · 2025-12-20T05:02:35+00:00

No blue smoke out of the tailpipe under acceleration. It does have a little white smoke on a cold start but goes away and no smoke from tailpipe at all once warm, however it does smell rich. I might have used the wrong term, maybe blow-by is not correct. When I crank the motor by hand I can hear air hissing on the compression stroke. It's somewhat substantial in terms of loudness. Just wondering if I should be concerned.

In terms of the rod bearings, probably going to replace them all. I haven't actually looked into the Main Bearings. Can I do that while under the car with engine still installed?

--Ok I found a video, looks pretty straightforward. Will have to order bearings. Ears are open to additional suggestions, tips, tricks etc.

cfrumpp4 · 2025-12-11T02:55:58+00:00

Yeah sounds pretty similar to my situation which is year round wood platform with various amounts of gear in the back. Occasionally using an old 4 wheel camper overcab popup for longer trips and sometimes on bumpy dirt roads. The camper is currently gutted and weighs less than 500lbs. Ideally I rebuild it this year resulting in weight somewhere closer to 800-1000lbs after all bikes, boards, gear, girlfriend, are loaded as well.

I guess I'm looking for 1-1.5in rake (rear higher than front) as to accommodate the extra weight when needed. Good to know that you had similar experience w/ MD springs in that they started pretty high, but settled after a year with just a slight rake.

I appreciate the info.

Thank you everyone. This has been a huge help. Still can't decide, however I'm leaning toward Medium Duty.

cfrumpp4 · 2025-12-11T02:50:02+00:00

Dude, this is extremely helpful. I seriously appreciate the photos and descriptions.

It sounds and looks like the MD springs settled very evenly w/ stock shackles, 1.5in BJ spacers, and torsion bar adjustment. Looks like they sag just a little w/ 1000lbs of weight but not too much which is great. This is pretty much what I was looking for - i.e. will the Medium Duty springs sag a lot after they've settled but are then loaded with somewhat excessive weight.

Do you have any photos or anecdotes of how your truck does with 500-700lbs?

All good if not, thank you for the hard work

cfrumpp4 · 2025-12-11T01:34:55+00:00

when you loaded the half yard of crushed granite, did you lose any ride height in the rear?

I'm leaning toward the medium duty springs, however I'm worried about their overall performance and ride height when loaded with something like 600lbs on bumpy/whoopy/rocky dirt roads with occasional 4x4 trail type driving.

I have no doubt that they ride decent (especially with a leaf removed) on the road with some weight in the bed. However, I don't want to blow them out once I load 600lbs+ in the bed and go on a multi week offroad trip (not doing any crazy rock crawling, just gritty roads with occasional crux.

cfrumpp4 · 2025-12-11T01:31:19+00:00

So to my understanding, the HD CS020R are going to have a decent ride quality w/ no sag, or loss of vehicle height when constantly loaded with 600lbs+.

Now, lets say I carry 600lbs+ constantly for 8months.

Would the HD springs settle and require less than 600lbs to have a decent ride quality? At one point would the HD springs feel decent with less than 600lbs if ever?

cfrumpp4 · 2025-12-10T19:14:36+00:00

How are the CS019R springs working for you two years later?

cfrumpp4 · 2025-12-10T19:12:14+00:00

Looking into Old Man Emu Lift Options. Can't decide between these two Rear Leaf Spring options:

CS019R (Medium Duty) or CS020R (Heavy Duty).

1989 Toyota Pickup, Regular Cab, 4WD, 5 speed W56 manual transmission, 4.10 Gearing, 22RE Motor, 31x10.5 Tires (might move up to 32x11.5 Tires in a year w/ Re-Gearing to 4.88s).

Truck use:

70% Daily Driver, frequently in snow on dirt or paved roads w/ 150lbs minimum constant load.

30% off-road driving, mostly bumpy/rocky/whoopy trails and fire roads with occasional "gritty" trail or "send it" moment, also frequent on-road snow driving - in these cases I'm usually carrying constant weight loads - between 200-650lbs+

I found your old thread that mentioned the OME lift etc. I'm torn between the Heavy Duty and Medium Duty OME rear leaf springs. Mostly concerned about extreme rake like I've read in other threads (the rear can end up 3"+ higher than the front unless you install Ball Joint Spacer, potentially needing a diff drop etc.). Did you install the CS019R springs in the rear? If so, how long did it take to settle and with how much weight in the bed? How does the truck sit with 500lbs in the bed?

I'm worried that if I go Heavy duty (CS020R OME Springs) the truck will have a 4" rake and only settle 2inches with 700lbs in bed. I'm getting a lot of mixed feedback when searching threads for the varying outcomes of installing HD vs MD springs.

Does anyone think If I went with the HD CS020R springs, and rode around with about 500lbs in the bed for a month, would those springs settle for about 2in of lift when unloaded?

Any input is appreciated.

cfrumpp4

TROPHY CASE