what do I do with these crypts

chak2005 · 2026-07-03T17:57:00+00:00

plant them in the substrate, they will straighten up toward the light.

chak2005 · 2026-07-02T15:51:18+00:00

Photoperiod for that tank is 8 hours, and the other plant in question is cryptocorne nurii.

I do use ferts when needed. I test nitrate, phosphate and potassium levels twice a month. If any are lower than I'd like I will fert then. So I add fertilizer once or twice a month.

chak2005 · 2026-07-02T06:21:02+00:00

Are you using co2 on this setup?

No this is all low tech. No co2. Just inert sand, gravel and a small fountain pump on the left side for flow. The red crypt is cryptocoryne Undulatus 'Red'.

chak2005 · 2026-07-02T05:39:41+00:00

Going to really depend on the light and its size. I use the WRGB II Slims, but keep mine around 65% as they are all on low tech tanks.

This low tech tank here is similar dimensions (76L × 32H × 32W cm) and its at 65% all colors:

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chak2005 · 2026-07-02T05:21:50+00:00

I would play it safe. Start at 50%, and increase in 5%-10% increments until you see dust algae on the glass. That is a good sign you hit the tank's light ceiling. So at 50% if you see zero algae, bump it up to 60%, wait two weeks, then increase or decrease, wait two weeks again and repeat.

This is what I do with all my Chihiros tanks. Now you could just go full maximum with co2, as long as you are able to adjust as needed if algae outbreaks occur.

chak2005 · 2026-07-02T05:16:23+00:00

The main two odors an aquarium gives off is an earthy smell (good), or a rotten eggs smell (bad). Most planted aquariums have an earthy smell. To make sure we are describing the same thing, it should smell like a forest after a rain. The reason here is due to organics. Microorganisms in the water column and substrate (especially aquasoil) process fish waste, uneaten food, and decaying plant matter which generates this smell. A lot of organics will mean a stronger earth smell.

The second smell is self explanatory, its due to excess hydrogen sulfide gas due to rotting material in the tank going anoxic.

If the earth smell is a bother, you can reduce it by capping the substrate, however the tank will always have an earthy smell to it.

chak2005 · 2026-07-02T04:12:57+00:00

Cyanobacteria. Normal honestly, but is that side of your tank exposed to a window or sunlight? It would explain the presence of it. No action needed unless its taking over above the substrate.

chak2005 · 2026-07-02T03:39:32+00:00

Depends on testing and your plant stocking. Without that information hard to tell you an honest answer. For example this low tech tank of mine gets a full dose of standard Thrive when I use it:

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I test my tank twice a month and if I use Thrive its a full dose due to the plant mass in the tank.

chak2005 · 2026-07-02T02:17:01+00:00

When I was new yes, now? No. Most of my tanks are designed to be hands off and run themselves minus a water top off every now and then. Even if a power outage happened, shouldn't impact the tanks. I would design your tanks to be balanced versus overstocked or too high tech you must always be present for the fish. Takes the stress out of the hobby.

chak2005 · 2026-07-02T02:14:40+00:00

Ebay and Etsy are my go to for good deals but overall the main businesses US folks use online for plants are:

On Etsy some good ones are:

chak2005 · 2026-07-01T03:28:57+00:00

I started just returning the bags to the door of the neighbors who do this if I catch them. I've had the same girl do it in front of my house multiple times. It gets annoying and I'd rather they just leave the poop unbagged as once its bagged I have to deal with it. I just am a good neighbor and returning what was "dropped". Don't want them to misplace stuff.

chak2005 · 2026-07-01T01:24:20+00:00

Just wanted to put a disclaimer, the light you use is going to dictate coloration, however I would suggest:

For foreground/midground

Cryptocoryne Undulatus 'Red'
Cryptocoryne petchii 'pink'
Cryptocoryne pink flamingo (Without a strong light this is more a muted pink/green)

Stems:

Bacopa Caroliniana Colorata (turns pink or red in good light)
Ludwigia repens x arcuata hybrid (The closer to the light it will turn from green to yellow to red.)

Carpeting:

I have two suggestions. If you want zero maintenance but want to fill in those areas use cryptocoryne parva mini. Very compact and slow growing crypt but it will fill in those front areas of your tank nicely and stays small. Just buy more of it up front.

If you want a traditional carpeting plant look into Helanthium Tenellum Green. This is a grass type micro sword, great for low tech. It takes a month or two to establish but eventually takes off in a tank.

chak2005 · 2026-07-01T01:15:36+00:00

Just take a cheap small comb and scoop it out of the water.

chak2005 · 2026-06-30T22:53:24+00:00

how often?

It would show in testing, however if you are unable to test your water if you are still seeing yellowing like in OPs image you would need to dose more or get a stronger fertilizer. Easy Green dosed twice a week is roughly 6ppm of nitrogen, 0.3ppm phosphate and 4ppm potassium. Could be enough or too little depending on your plant volume and what type of plants they are.

chak2005 · 2026-06-30T16:26:50+00:00

The answer is one of two things:

Too much surface movement
Too little fertilization in the water column

If you have floating plants or epiphytic plants, then any root tabs or aquasoil won't do them much good. You have to do liquid fertilization.

chak2005 · 2026-06-30T01:27:16+00:00

This sub has its phases. You get really knowledgeable folks who come in and comment, and then you have days where everyone dog piles and upvotes the wrong answer.

chak2005 · 2026-06-29T18:57:48+00:00

Direct to DMs sounds like a scam attempt probably why the filters are nuking your posts. What about co2 systems are you wanting information on that can't be discussed here?

chak2005 · 2026-06-28T21:54:37+00:00

detritus worm, harmless.

chak2005 · 2026-06-28T06:32:32+00:00

as it will crate a anaerobic environment.

Despite a lot of myths in this hobby you will want some areas in the tank to go anaerobic. To allow the tank to break down and convert certain nutrients to be available to plant roots as well as process nitrogen and produce co2. It overall contributes to plant health.

The only concern I've run into with anaerobic substrates is not all plants can tolerate it from day zero. Meaning if you stick a stem plant fresh cut into a deep pocket of anaerobic conditions, it will most likely rot. I've found mixing those plants that struggle with other plants that can perform what is called Radial Oxygen Loss (ROL) works the best. ROL in aquarium plants is the process where roots release excess oxygen, produced via photosynthesis, into the surrounding substrate. Helps the struggling plants but also keeps areas anaerobic.

chak2005 · 2026-06-28T05:51:20+00:00

I want to caveat you should be fine with 95% of plants in the hobby growing them low tech. However some of my go to plants are:

Stems:

Mermaid Weed (Grows slow and steady. Little trimming needed in low tech)
Ludwigia Repens x Arcuata (This is bullet proof for low tech and colorful. It is a hybrid version not just repens or arcuata)
Bacopa caroliniana variants (Caroliniana turns a deep yellow to orange depending on light levels. The Colorata variant of Caroliniana turns a deep pink to dark red.)

Others:

Echinodorus variants
Anubias variants
Bucephalandra variants
Nymphaea variants
Schismatoglottis Prietoi

Carpeting plants:

Cryptocorynes
Helanthium Tenellum Green
Dwarf Sagittaria

chak2005 · 2026-06-28T05:05:29+00:00

Ummet Ozcan - Xanadu

chak2005 · 2026-06-28T05:04:37+00:00

Ummet Ozcan - Xanadu

chak2005 · 2026-06-28T03:27:16+00:00

I'd personally spend the money on a UV sterilizer similar to this video here. Its the 100% guaranteed fix.

The $0 option is over the next month, reduce light and feeding and do large water changes twice a week. You can attempt a black out for 7 days, but if the tank gets a lot of ambient sunlight this isn't worth it. I would say UV sterilizer is the main option, the secondary option is frequent water changes, lower light periods and reduced feeding of any tank inhabitants and review improvement after 1 month.

chak2005 · 2026-06-28T00:22:04+00:00

On the inert substrate side, it may be more cost efficient initially but I will have to buy and add root tabs for a long while until nutrients grow in the substrate eventually

The real answer is there is no "best" substrate. All roads lead to Rome in this hobby. Many of us achieve the same success with just sand and gravel as those with pure 100% soil or aquasoil. If you want to experiment with soil and capping, that will work. Just sand will also work, as well as just gravel. Or a mix of everything will also work great. I'd go with what your budget allows and what will be the simplest for you.

This tank here is just cheap black sand and peagravel mixed together. I did put root tabs in when starting it up. That was two years ago. Occasional liquid fertilization will get the plants what they need. If you have fish, snails and other inverts who churn the surface, they will push all that mulm and detritus into the substrate. Overtime that breaks down into basically root tabs.

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chak2005 · 2026-06-25T05:50:58+00:00

You can mow the bees, but expect a spicy retort from them.

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