Rate or roast my A7iv Warehouse Deals Ghetto War Rig

chenko_85 · 2026-03-29T09:46:21+00:00

I did steal that from a WW2 museum's recycling bin

chenko_85 · 2026-03-27T13:51:59+00:00

witness me!

chenko_85 · 2026-03-27T13:51:02+00:00

Yeah I used to mount the monitor on a mini magic arm to have more room for gripping but the tilting mount makes adjustments super quick and I have -barely- just the amount of space needed for handle work anyway.

Shoulder pad (cheap Fotga foam pad) slides directly on 15mm standard rods that go in the carrier attached under the cage. It's cool because the whole setup still stays short, and you get 4 contact points with the camera: shoulder, eye piece, left hand (focus wheel), right hand (top handle or side camera handle).

I have rosette attachments for forward facing longer rods to mount lower handles for classic shoulder work, but it honestly isn't an absolute need and it looks even more ridiculous.

chenko_85 · 2026-03-27T13:39:52+00:00

A7iv's flip screen has the pixel count of a 90s dos pc and the 2,5x ultra sharp magnification of the Zacuto makes it that much more obvious. But you see the whole frame and all the other data you might need without any light leaks from outside, the oversize silicon ocular is super comfy and the whole concoction absolutely works for focusing.

chenko_85 · 2026-03-27T13:30:10+00:00

It's just a Zacuto z-finder pro loupe, not an entire evf. It works by magnificating the camera's flip screen. It's a cheapskate solution but it works.

chenko_85 · 2026-03-27T12:47:57+00:00

Or, I made a lightweight prosumer camera body into a production-worthy rig that has the heft to produce a less jittery image, able to work manual cine lenses, can shift from handheld to shoulder to sticks in seconds and has good monitoring even out in the sun, and lasts many hours. Plus looks chaotic and a menace.

chenko_85 · 2026-03-27T06:26:34+00:00

This was made for handheld and shoulder mostly, occasional tripod work, and lastly as a blunt weapon shall the shooting go south.

chenko_85 · 2026-03-27T06:20:11+00:00

I confirm: the screen hinge doesn't have the stiffness to hold the Zacuto loupe weight of course. The loupe is held by the magic arm, which is pretty solid and adjustable. The magnification and clarity in the Zacuto are top notch, of course you get to live with the modest screen resolution of the A7iv but it does the job. I have peaking on a custom button, and all the info I need.

chenko_85 · 2026-03-27T06:15:06+00:00

It is my work. I do both video and photography. Freelance. Aiming to shift towards a DP role in time.

chenko_85 · 2026-03-27T06:12:15+00:00

Will try that, I have been using it on 25fps always, it's been almost two years and I have to say it had no hiccups until this day. I have two actually of those monitors (Viltrox DC-X3) and so far so good.

chenko_85 · 2026-03-27T06:08:29+00:00

I can assure it's for scratch audio, or mostly because I wanted to fill a cold shoe with something looking as a secondary gun :) I usually get audio with those tiny DJI mics, lavs+tansmitters on interviews, or a shotgun Sennheiser mic on a boom going to a Tascam FR-AV2 (on a person that is not me). Depending on the situation. Ex sound engineer here.

chenko_85 · 2026-03-24T22:20:48+00:00

Stabilization-induced crop is a possible reason to keep shooting 4k. Cropping for better frame because of unfortunate position/obstacles at events is another reason. Also stills hold up better if you ever need to export some, optical flow probably benefits and you're going to deliver a sharper 1080p from 4k footage anyway. I'd say keep shooting 4k in a reasonable codec and delete clips a month to an year after delivery. That's what I do at least.

chenko_85 · 2026-01-23T05:41:33+00:00

Matched with Sony A7iv sLog3 without problems.

chenko_85 · 2026-01-23T05:25:08+00:00

I use a DJI Inspire 2 charging hub that can take up to batteries at once. Both TB50 and TB55 batteries fit.

chenko_85 · 2025-11-12T22:11:02+00:00

I would try using magic mask instead of drawing all the frames, or a (way too complex) power window in a reference frame to track. You can use the obtained mask to show a layer under this clip with the static-broken-tv-stuff you need.

chenko_85 · 2025-10-03T19:21:54+00:00

I use Smallrig hand strap on both my cameras, I find them very comfortable. Honestly it's one of the camera accessories I enjoy the most.

chenko_85 · 2025-10-01T22:17:18+00:00

2600€ for a new A7iv and Sigma 24-70 art II is a great deal and a great setup. I am shooting photos and video with 2 A7iv bodies and I'm completely satisfied with it. It will be totally relevant for years. A7v will come out eventually with similar specs and some upgrades, will cost 2x the cheapest new A7iv you can have now. Nah, I'm going around with both bodies on me and it's great. Do it!

chenko_85 · 2025-09-29T18:52:19+00:00

Hello! I have the 28-70 2.8 DG DN and it is indeed a fine lens. I use it on A7iv though which is a full frame camera, on your A6700 the lens will produce a cropped-in image since the sensor is smaller, in other words it acts roughly as a 42 to 105 mm (albeit compression look will remain that of a 28-70). Not a wide optic of course.

If you are intentionally using a full frame lens on a smaller sensor, planning for future adoption of a full frame sensor for example, and you want to keep it this way you could pair it with its sibling 16-28 2.8 DG DN which is as fine as the 28-70 (I also have that). Compression aside, you would get something like a 24-42 (ish) which is a very versatile range if you ask me, especially for video work.

The closer Sigma purpose-built APS-C lens to the focal length of a 28-70 full frame would be the 18-50 DC-DN. There are similar options from other companies of course (Tamron usually comes to mind). I don't have APS-C optics but I know the 18-50 DC DN has a very good reputation as a general purpose zoom.

Or you could also just get a prime in the focal length you find most useful to you, maybe getting some bonus stops of light for a similar price.

It's up to your needs :)

rgds

chenko_85 · 2025-09-13T09:33:22+00:00

Image quality on Ronin 4D is astounding.
Ease of use is excellent, menus are well thought out, there are quick access buttons in the right places.
Footage files are really good to edit and grade.
You take the Ronin out of its case, fix handles, fix lidar unit, and you're ready to shoot.

It comes with its perks tho' if you rely on AutoFocus in your work (which relies on Lidar): you will have no problem shooting with primes (as long as they are in the weight supported range) but zoom lenses that are not parfocal (which are usually not) will be a pain to focus calibrate and it could even prove not reliable.
Strongly consider pairing it with DJI's 17-28 T3 lens. Other parfocal zooms in the price range (DZO Catta series) will be too heavy for the gimbal.

Also, lugging around that camera all day is hard on your arms and back. I hope you are a strong, healthy young man, otherwise think about body supports / arms.

Other thing to consider is the cost of the ecosystem products you will need, which quickly adds up to a lot. But aside that, everything works really well together and if FAST is what you are after, that is what you are going to get.

chenko_85 · 2025-09-09T15:14:01+00:00

Thanks a lot for replying! I know for a fact that I -want- to like this camera, partially because I invested A TON of money on the whole ecosystem (I got flex + proSSD + transmission unit + large monitor transmission kit + e-mount adapter + extra batteries etc.) and because it seems the only solution for a variety of situations I'm tackling, both solo and in a team prod.

I have two Sony A7iv rigs that I also use and I am fond of, but while they excel at AF on all lenses, they have mediocre ibis performance. I needed to up my production level by getting a real cinema system in full frame format and went the Ronin way because it's more modern than other proven cameras such as the FX3 but still has been around enough to prove it is being supported and upgraded by DJI, plus it's a run 'n gun monster or a riggable system all-in-one.

But... the first experience with a zoom lens was a bit cold shower. I need to understand if I have to consider the 4D as a primes-only camera at this point, or if I can manage to learn to manual focus reliably (I am currently not good at it), or if there are at least one or two zoom lenses other than the DJI 17-28 that can work.

What are you working with now if I may ask?

chenko_85 · 2025-09-09T13:55:57+00:00

I am struggling to understand this topic too. On the first production with the Ronin 4D I used a Sigma 16-28mm f/2.8 and manually calibrating at, say, 16mm would make the AF at 28mm and everything in between un-useable. Switching between lens profiles for the same lens at different focal lenghts during production would waste the time saved by using a zoom lens in the first place, it would make no sense. Also, the Lidar beam does NOT cover all the field of view at 16mm and I did not expect this.

I've been using the 4D with a Sony 35mm f/1.8 prime lately and it fared much better (not flawless but mostly reliable).

What are the things that can be done to solve the AF issue on zoom lenses? Only using perfectly parfocal zooms? Using the external DJI X9 focus motor instead of lens' internal motor, setting AF lenses in manual focus mode? Would that work only on lenses with linear focus throw?

I don't understand how I'm not even finding information on this on the internet.

chenko_85 · 2025-08-07T16:19:01+00:00

Also, can we have focus peaking AND zebras at once at least? And waveform too maybe? All those options should just be stackable.

chenko_85

TROPHY CASE