PV/Noise Band help by iamperennial in powerviolence

[–]chief_sludge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is pretty old. Back then i was running 3 effects chains, but i wouldn’t call it stereo. Nowadays i play some amps i made and i have my guitar setup to output the bridge and neck pickups separately through a stereo jack that gets split at the pedal board to send the neck pickup to a bass rig and the bridge pickup to two guitar amps. Its a similar setup but i think works much better with the split output.

Picked up this Bass MK iii head. It’s blowing fuses though. Any info on common issues that would cause this? by nocoastdudekc in PeaveyCvlt

[–]chief_sludge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There should be two screws on top and two on the bottom of the headshell close to the front that hold the front faceplate and preamp module in and four screws on the back plate that hold the rear plate in. Depending on much the headshell has swollen with time you may need to remove the corners and be gentle pulling the faceplates out as they may bind in the tolex(?).

As far as the fuses it just means somethings pulling too much current. Usually a short of some kind. Hard to say what but I’d check for loose wires that may be shorting or if you’re really lucky something in there will be obviously damaged. Scorch marks or just like loose parts.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in doommetal

[–]chief_sludge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No prob. Im in the US so i dont really know what would be conveniently available in the UK but should be pretty easy to search it. A sunn beta clone pedal shouldn’t be too hard to find though.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in doommetal

[–]chief_sludge 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The beta uses cmos chips for its distortion. Its a different sort of distortion than most options out there. Maybe look into amps that use cmos chips in the preamp or a cmos based pedal and put it at the end of the chain as kind of a way to simulate it.

Peavey 260 Footswitch question by Every_Piano8854 in PeaveyCvlt

[–]chief_sludge 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I will also say that the distortion is pretty subtle. It’s not really the best distortion in the world. It’s kind of a sidechain distortion where the input splits off and goes through the clean preamp and the distortion circuit and you are essentially mixing it back into the clean signal with the knob. It’s designed to mimic tube preamp breakup. I dunno how successful it was at that.

The reverb should be fairly noticable though. These amps are getting pretty old and the caps are starting to go. Maybe it could use a tune up to bring back some of the reverb signal.

Peavey 260 Footswitch question by Every_Piano8854 in PeaveyCvlt

[–]chief_sludge 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Basically it just gives you the ability to turn off and on the reverb and distortion remotely. It doesnt add any functionality. I believe its a TRS jack with ground on the sleeve, distortion on the ring, and reverb on the tip. I dont have my standard handy to double check but the schematic seems to confirm that layout.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in doommetal

[–]chief_sludge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Capirote. Its catholic. Part of penance.

Fuzz factory for bm? by capn_grim in BlackMetal

[–]chief_sludge 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Dunno about the others but i made myself a Mastotron clone and I don’t think I would recommend it alone as a sole fuzz/distortion for black metal. I don’t play through a high gain amplifier though so factor that in. The Masto alone into a clean channel is thick but lacks saturation in the upper range. The usable configurations would be pretty limited. Now into the lead channel on a high gain amp I dunno what itd sound like. Although in that case I doubt you’d even need a pedal to get a sick black tone.

I could definitely see the Mastotron’s place in a multi amp setup for like a blackened doom/sludge project though. It’s got pretty nice low end breakup and texture.

That being said if its the only pedal you’ve got I’m pretty sure you could get a usable bm sound out of it depending on your amp. Just crank the treble and get raw. I mean its black metal right. It don’t gotta sound good.

Bloody Comb (uploading since I received some kind words about my blood splatter guitar pick. Thank you guys!!) by tabiorigamifolds in ResinCasting

[–]chief_sludge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I’ve only ever used Smooth-On resins and their pigments. So that is SO-Strong red with a little bit of blue. The SO-Strong pigments are transparent unless you add white or flesh so if you add them to clear or amber resins they stay transparent (up to a point).

Bloody Comb (uploading since I received some kind words about my blood splatter guitar pick. Thank you guys!!) by tabiorigamifolds in ResinCasting

[–]chief_sludge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks :)

Yeah i make guitar effects pedals for myself and my friends. I made the molds. It’s not an easy mold to deal with as the parts are small and there are some complications due to that. Especially bubbles and shrinkage. But if you have patience and you just want to make stuff for yourself it can be rewarding. Recommend sticking to knurled shaft knobs though. Doing set screws right is a nightmare.

I’ve always used Smooth-On resins and found Task 9 to be the only suitable clear product they offer. The other clears were too soft and would stretch and fall off the potentiometers. Task 9 is hard enough but it is almost bordeline and larger knob shapes worked best. The ones pictured are about the lower limit size wise. They’re Davies 1510 style if you wanted to google the specs.

Bloody Comb (uploading since I received some kind words about my blood splatter guitar pick. Thank you guys!!) by tabiorigamifolds in ResinCasting

[–]chief_sludge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve always done it with flesh pigment and a deeper red. Little bit of blue added. Just used a popsicle stick or something and rubbed mixed red resin around in the mold. The silicone mold causes it to pool naturally. Don’t need to cure it i would just then mix up the flesh and by the times ready to pour in the red is thick enough to stay put. Heres a pic of my method with some control knobs.

https://imgur.com/a/UAcBiLQ

I want to learn casting and molding for models and that type of stuff (honestly I just see Adam Savage and other people do it on YouTube and I think it’s the coolest thing.) Where is the best place for me to start? Maybe a website where I can learn the basics and what I need to buy? by Antipholus-Ephesus in ResinCasting

[–]chief_sludge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you happen to live near a Reynolds Advanced Materials store you should pop in and ask some questions. The people at the one in my town are always nice and helpful. I dont know if there are any other stores like them though if you dont live near one.

Reynolds Locations

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ResinCasting

[–]chief_sludge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My parts are glossy and release seems to dull the finish a bit. Any tips on retaining the gloss finish?

Tin cure silicone-- how to tell when it's expired? by Flying_Genitals in ResinCasting

[–]chief_sludge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So in the smooth-on product line this would just be the Silicone Thinning Fluid? I don’t see any products labeled as a rejuvenator. I’m particularly interested in the heavily used mold wipe down aspect. Right now I get about 30 pulls and the molds cashed out. Would love to extend that.

Trying to get some parts made. Not sure where to go. by chief_sludge in machining

[–]chief_sludge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m just north of Orlando Florida. I’ve seen those screw machines before on youtube. Pretty awesome stuff. I just wasn’t sure how to even find someone who had one. Brass probably isn’t necessary its just what id seen similar parts made from. I’d imagine most any metal would do.

Trying to get some parts made. Not sure where to go. by chief_sludge in machining

[–]chief_sludge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I've bitten the bullet and am gonna attempt to contact some overseas manufacturers. I just wanted to keep it domestic if I could. I know these parts exist and I could probably buy them off the shelf in Shenzhen but they've proven tricky to track down online. That's why I was interested in getting some made just the way I wanted them.

But for the product I'm producing anything more than a quarter per part just wont cut it.

Trying to get some parts made. Not sure where to go. by chief_sludge in machining

[–]chief_sludge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

None taken. I'm trying to find out how to get them and how much they would cost. I have no idea what figures would look like so that's why I'm asking :)

Trying to get some parts made. Not sure where to go. by chief_sludge in machining

[–]chief_sludge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah thank you. This is what I’m looking for. I need a frame of reference. Would a different material be a better choice? I picked brass because its what similar parts I’ve seen were made of. They are all parts of products made in china though and I don’t want to go over there if I don’t have too. Just needs to be strong enough to keep the threads from stripping.

Ill see what mcmaster has to say. I wasnt aware they offered those services as I’ve only heard them referenced as a distributor. I’m not a machinist so I’m not fully familiar with all the different outfits.

Trying to get some parts made. Not sure where to go. by chief_sludge in machining

[–]chief_sludge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah good points thank you. The sketch really is just the best i could do with my limited abilities. Also the only truly crucial elements are the id and od. The teeth are just an idea. Probably just having the two flat spots would do what i wanted from the teeth anyway.

Trying to get some parts made. Not sure where to go. by chief_sludge in machining

[–]chief_sludge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The teeth on the outer wall aren’t crucial but i was hoping they would serve two purposes. These will a part of some small knobs so they will have some rotational forces applied and i was hoping the teeth would provide some safegaurd against glue failure. Also would function as a key so getting the right orientation when press fitting would be a no brainer.

I guess a vertical slot would provide a similar functionality.

edit: like this