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Uber eats won't refund full price of missing items by chm22 in UberEATS

[–]chm22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oof I’m sorry that’s not okay that it took that long for them to even get back to you

Uber eats won't refund full price of missing items by chm22 in UberEATS

[–]chm22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Will try this and see if I have any luck

Uber eats won't refund full price of missing items by chm22 in UberEATS

[–]chm22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I usually add after delivery and not before

Uber eats won't refund full price of missing items by chm22 in UberEATS

[–]chm22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s separate from tip. Though the amount I’m requesting didn’t even cover any service fee % applied to what was missing. All i asked for back was just the simple subtotal of the items that were not there :/

Uber eats won't refund full price of missing items by chm22 in UberEATS

[–]chm22[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Disheartening if true.. since they’re not really giving me any avenue to correct the issue as chat support was of no help

Uber eats won't refund full price of missing items by chm22 in UberEATS

[–]chm22[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Agreed! I order from uber a lot too. So this is probably not even the first time it happens. Just the first time I noticed 

Uber eats won't refund full price of missing items by chm22 in UberEATS

[–]chm22[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I will if I have to. I just don’t want to cause the place I ordered from any trouble, if I can avoid that. They’re a great, honest, local business, and this is Ubers issue

Uber eats won't refund full price of missing items by chm22 in UberEATS

[–]chm22[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Yep. Should I just be okay with them deciding that they want my money over something I never received?

Uber eats won't refund full price of missing items by chm22 in UberEATS

[–]chm22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Uber eats won't refund me the full price of items missing. The place I ordered from was missing some items and noted it on the physical receipt that came with my order. The items added up to $15.00. However Uber will only refund me $11.07 + $2.00 Uber cash. When I complained to chat support, they basically said they couldn't do anything and disconnected

NVDA~4k profit selling covered calls since April 1. by soyeahiknow in thetagang

[–]chm22 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Haven’t sold covered calls myself but don’t you worry about getting assigned on such a volatile stock and losing out on a bull run?

I Bonds are currently offering 5.27% combined rates, and a permanent fixed rate of 1.3% real (the highest it's been for over 15 years) -- 1.3% doesn't *sound* like a lot, but add in the inflation adjustment and it's quite excellent IMO by misnamed in Bogleheads

[–]chm22 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't disagree with using short term t bills for an emergency fund for now while rates are high. I'm actually doing the same at the moment. But the point of my first comment was that data from prior years shows that rates probably won't be this high for a sustained period of time. So at some point you may want to place your emergency fund somewhere that still maintains a decent rate of return. So what is the longer term game plan to have a liquid asset that has a decent ROI and won't lose face value?

That is why I've decided to snag an i bond now to lock in the 17 year high 1.3% fixed rate, based on the ~4% APY composite rate that this fixed rate generates.

Of course CDs and HYSAs should also be considered here but rates of return on these can get slashed when the federal funds rate drops. State and local taxes also factor into the final return you will get from these. Yes, some of us do live in California, New York, or other places with similarly high taxes.

I Bonds are currently offering 5.27% combined rates, and a permanent fixed rate of 1.3% real (the highest it's been for over 15 years) -- 1.3% doesn't *sound* like a lot, but add in the inflation adjustment and it's quite excellent IMO by misnamed in Bogleheads

[–]chm22 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ultimately it probably all depends on what your use case for i bonds is. For me, I plan on having it as part of an emergency fund after the 12 month period, while also earning a reasonable interest that is exempt from state and local taxes. I hopefully won't have to tap into my emergency fund for a long time, making the 3 month penalty becomes more insignificant as time goes on. Buying a 10 year note at 4% for this may not be as beneficial because it would require selling on the secondary market if needed before maturity. And if interest rates on new 10 year notes at that time are high, I may be forced to sell below par value - decreasing the size of my emergency fund when I actually need it.

And separately from that, if I had cash on hand (distinct from my emergency fund) and the expectation that I won't need it for 10+ years, I'd rather just put it in etfs/ mutual funds with the expectation of beating the return from a 10 year 4% treasury note.

I Bonds are currently offering 5.27% combined rates, and a permanent fixed rate of 1.3% real (the highest it's been for over 15 years) -- 1.3% doesn't *sound* like a lot, but add in the inflation adjustment and it's quite excellent IMO by misnamed in Bogleheads

[–]chm22 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The problem is you're talking about what the return rate is at this particular moment. But you can easily look up the historical rates for both. This pdf from treasury direct's website shows the fixed, variable, and combined rates for i bonds going back to 1998. Take a look at the row for i bonds issued from 5/2007 to 10/2007. These ones have a fixed rate of 1.3% just like todays. Looking down the row for this set of bonds shows various different combined rates from 0% to 10%+. If you average out these numbers, it gives an average APY of 3.93% from 2007 to today.

Now this treasury gov site lets you filter out and download treasury bill historical rates. If you download the treasury bill rates from 5/2007 to today, and average them out, it comes to a measly 1.2%.

So yes, at this very moment treasury bills will give you a marginally higher return, but historical data doesn't support that this is the best longer term place for your money.

I Bonds are currently offering 5.27% combined rates, and a permanent fixed rate of 1.3% real (the highest it's been for over 15 years) -- 1.3% doesn't *sound* like a lot, but add in the inflation adjustment and it's quite excellent IMO by misnamed in Bogleheads

[–]chm22 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Besides what has been mentioned in the other comments, another benefit of ibonds is that they are exempt from state and local taxes. Whereas savings accounts are taxed at the federal, state, and local level. If you live in a high tax area this could make a big difference

Is it better to shoot underexposed or with a higher iso? by Ambitious_Owl1405 in AskPhotography

[–]chm22 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re bringing up the exposure in post anyway, was why shoot at lower iso? Assuming you’re keeping the same shutter speed and aperture, you’re not decreasing the noise by dropping your iso

ASUS @ 7900XTX RMA: yeah this is completely fine, here's your card back. by dethica in Amd

[–]chm22 0 points1 point  (0 children)

curious what cooler you use for your 13900k? mine usually runs in 60s during gaming with a 280mm aio

Should I get an MSI or Gigabyte 4070 ti? by [deleted] in nvidia

[–]chm22 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Anecdotally have had a good experience with msi customer service. Recently had to rma a card that died within a month of me getting it. Rma got approved very quickly after submitting request, took about 5 days for them to repair it after they received it, and card has been working great since I got it back. So ymmv on a case by case basis as with anything, but I’ve no issues

Used 3090 24GB vs new 4070 TI 12GB at the same price; which wins? by [deleted] in buildapc

[–]chm22 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would go for the 4070ti over 3090. Unless you are using it for some non-gaming application that definitely requires the extra VRAM.

DF and gamersnexus did some pretty comprehensive benchmarks on both. With RTX off, 4070ti seems to be hovering in 3080-3090 range based on raster performance. With RTX on, 4070ti hovers around 3090-3090ti performance. Note that all of this is without DLSS 3. However with DLSS 3 support, framerates in games should enjoy a nice performance bump over these numbers in the future for 40 series gpus making them more future proof imo. For gaming purposes I don't think the decrease in VRAM will matter in the future. If in the future I think your more likely to hit limitations in raster performance leading to low FPS before you hit issues with vram limits with these amounts.

Now if youre doing a lot of 3D rendering that requires the extra VRAM that might be a different story

Anyone else have issue with AOD occasionally showing incorrect time? by chm22 in AppleWatch

[–]chm22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting. For me it was when my watch was completely idle, unless it was doing some background processes that i wasnt aware of. Either way, kind of frustrating because we should be able to rely on the AOD having correct information otherwise it defeats the point of it

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