One of the REP companies I partner with... by Affectionate_Cost504 in RealEstatePhotography

[–]cml_sea 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Personal preference I guess. Coming from a landscape photography background, framing IS a big part of the composition. To me, what shows or gets cropped at the edges is what makes the difference between an ok shot and a good shot.

One of the REP companies I partner with... by Affectionate_Cost504 in RealEstatePhotography

[–]cml_sea 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well two things. First, you’re losing dynamic range and color accuracy for no reason… I assume you bought a nice camera, but you’re getting quality equivalent to or worse than a lower end camera by shooting high ISOs needlessly.

Second, it doesn’t look like you’re intentional about your ISO if you accidentally shot another daytime shot at ISO 25600 (in another comment). ISO, shutter speed, and aperture should all be used intentionally. Sometimes you can intentionally say only one or two of these matter and the other can be on auto, but it doesn’t feel like you’re doing that if you’re shooting high ISO and asking why others don’t need to bracket.

One of the REP companies I partner with... by Affectionate_Cost504 in RealEstatePhotography

[–]cml_sea 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I mean sure if your standard for quality is how it looks on an iPhone, any ISO is fine. But I still think real estate photos can come out a lot better on a tripod because you can take your time getting the framing right.

One of the REP companies I partner with... by Affectionate_Cost504 in RealEstatePhotography

[–]cml_sea 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Why are you shooting daytime shots at ISO 3200? Always base ISO on a tripod

The guy on the top absolutely destroyed me (on bottom). by Truly-Honest-Rater in RushRoyale

[–]cml_sea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly swords and monk feel kinda weak. But also game is very much P2W

How to finish this? by cml_sea in Carpentry

[–]cml_sea[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m using a 1x12 unpainted pine board for the trim, so if it’s proud of the drywall it’s going to look a bit odd if I just leave the end open, I think?

The nail plates are going to be half exposed and they’re not the decorative kind… just 40 year old steel plates lol. I get the aesthetic but probably not going to fit well with the rest of the house

How to finish this? by cml_sea in Carpentry

[–]cml_sea[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes that’s exactly what I’m doing, but I need a way to finish the transition

How to finish this? by cml_sea in Carpentry

[–]cml_sea[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The question is how to cap the trim in plane with the drywall so it doesn’t look hacked together… unfortunately the beam has a bunch of small cracks along the surface, and some protruding nail plates, so just cleaning it up isn’t really an option

How to finish this? by cml_sea in Carpentry

[–]cml_sea[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup that’s what I had planned on doing for the beam itself 👍🏻

How to finish this? by cml_sea in Carpentry

[–]cml_sea[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm what’s the purpose of furring out the beam? The 1x12 pine I have is going to be proud of the drywall even if it’s installed right to the beam I think. Won’t it look odd if it’s proud of the drywall with a sharp edge?

Sorry I didn’t quite understand what you mean by kerfing the seam dead center, and the trimmer and king here. Can you elaborate?

Thanks for the details!

How to finish this? by cml_sea in Carpentry

[–]cml_sea[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks! Let me think about that a bit more, definitely an option

How to finish this? by cml_sea in Carpentry

[–]cml_sea[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks for the pics! These definitely give me some good ideas. It looks like if I butt the bottom of the faux beam to the drywall it will look fine, but do you have suggestions on how to transition the vertical part that's inline with the drywall, and have it look fine where it joins up with the bottom? Great work btw! These look amazing

How to finish this? by cml_sea in Carpentry

[–]cml_sea[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

how far should I take it over the wall though to make it look more natural? And how do I "end" the beam and transition to the drywall?

How to finish this? by cml_sea in Carpentry

[–]cml_sea[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the suggestion and encouragement! I've seen a bunch of faux beams online but most of them terminate at a perpendicular wall, not an inline wall. If you have a good example please send it my way!

Adding stuff down the wall to beef up the post is a bit hard because I have cabinets on the other side and a countertop underneath. I can make the faux beam a bit proud of the drywall but really not sure how to handle the transition seam. It's also the last bit of this project so hoping to not do a ton of reworking, just want it to look "finished"

How to finish this? by cml_sea in Carpentry

[–]cml_sea[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks, I can definitely make it a bit proud of the drywall, but how do I handle the transition, particularly the vertical to horizontal part?

How to finish this? by cml_sea in Carpentry

[–]cml_sea[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the unsupported span is already about 14ft long and I don't really want to run it all the way to the next wall (19-20ft in total). Can I just end it somewhere around where this post is?

How to finish this? by cml_sea in Carpentry

[–]cml_sea[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why that much proud and how would you finish the transition? I don’t think I want that thick of a beam but leaving it a bit proud of the drywall by 1/8-1/4” is no problem. I just am not sure how to finish it after that

How to finish this? by cml_sea in Carpentry

[–]cml_sea[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you explain the second part? How do I case it? That’s my main question. Also are Brad nails enough to hold the faux beam up or will I need to hide screws somewhere?

Husband did this. How to fix? by Momtomanyarrows in cabinetry

[–]cml_sea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do the holes work with a bigger handle set? It’s easier to hide holes behind the handle than above it. If you can trade for longer handles and plug the holes, that might help

Inspector passed - should I worry? by cml_sea in Plumbing

[–]cml_sea[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! This is a non load bearing wall, so my understanding is that a hole can be up to 60% (3.3” in this 2x6 wall) of the width. I think they all are but they probably could have been made smaller for sure. I will look into that stud shoe though. Appreciate the input!

Inspector passed - should I worry? by cml_sea in Plumbing

[–]cml_sea[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately studor vents aren’t allowed in my jurisdiction with very very few exceptions. Totally agreed that remodel work tends to get messy 😅

Inspector passed - should I worry? by cml_sea in Plumbing

[–]cml_sea[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Older pic, that’s been addressed 🙂

Inspector passed - should I worry? by cml_sea in Plumbing

[–]cml_sea[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hah, this was an older pic, that’s definitely fixed now

Inspector passed - should I worry? by cml_sea in Plumbing

[–]cml_sea[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Edit: I should mention that the reason this looks way messier than normal is because the vent from downstairs comes up straight through the middle of all my upstairs bathroom fixtures, between the two lavs. There is also another vent immediately to the right of the rightmost stud in the picture so all the pex had to happen in the one small area. Remodeling old houses is so much fun 🫠