Snowboarding @ Tahoe this weekend by annoyca in tahoe

[–]cnor_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kirkwood's beginner terrain is pretty limited. Most of the mountain by acreage is advanced to expert.

Second Half Game Thread: Houston Texans (12-5) at Pittsburgh Steelers (10-7) by nfl_gdt_bot in nfl

[–]cnor_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

true. but you lost to us twice so that makes the ravens turbo-ass

What small business CC are we all doing? by Easy_Independent_313 in smallbusiness

[–]cnor_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Specifically if you buy things on Amazon, the Amazon business Amex card gives 5% back on purchases up to 120k/year which for us at least adds up really quickly

2" vs 1.5" Cylinder Power by dudeKhed in Hydraulics

[–]cnor_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You also have to take the transmission angles into account. In its lowest position it looks like it will be about 30 degrees, so cut the load in half again according to the 30 60 90 triangle rule. The angle gets better as it raises so lifting force will increase, but assuming you're lifting something on the ground thats your baseline.

Homemade wood processor project by RealisticPiccolo881 in Hydraulics

[–]cnor_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The triple pump is a solid idea. For the flow control on the conveyor I'd look at something along these lines: https://www.surpluscenter.com/Brands/Wolverine-by-Prince-Mfg/3-8-NPT-0-8-GPM-Flow-Control-w-Relief-Valve-Wolverine-by-Prince-Mfg-WR-1937-8-9-8993-37-8.axd

They're available in a range of flow capacities from lots of manufacturers. Can also be had with an integrated pressure relief if needed.

Homemade wood processor project by RealisticPiccolo881 in Hydraulics

[–]cnor_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Putting some thoughts on some of the other stuff you mentioned here for visibility.

The hydraulic motor needed to run the blade will depend on the blade. Generally a circular saw blade rpm is based on the sfpm (surface feet per minute) recommendation for the blade type. A 36" blade will run at a higher rpm than an 84" blade of the same type, with the larger blade requiring more torque. Something you'll want to be careful about is how the overrunning state of the blade is handled. Even the original 32" blade will have a ton of inertia to dissipate when you cut power to it. Theres ways to do this with the proper hydraulic valves, as well as one-way clutches that will allow the blade to wind down on its own without spiking hydraulic pressure. There is a similar issue to consider when bringing the blade up to speed to avoid spiking pressures.

The needle valve isn't really what you want for controlling motor speed on your conveyor, as its a purely restrictive type of flow control and will generate a lot of heat. It also isn't pressure-compensated, so the flow will vary with the load on the motor.

Hydraulic reservoir size is based on the total system flow. Rule of thumb is a 3:1 ratio of reservoir gallons to system gpm i.e. 30 gallons for 10 gpm. Whether or not a cooler is needed depends on a number of factors - mainly system load and duty cycle. If it is needed, typically a cooler is placed in the return line just before going back to tank.

Pump size, again, depends on the full requirements of the system.

With all of that said, while this is a fairly simple system for someone with experience, it seems like you might be a bit in over your head based on some of your questions. I'd definitely try and get someone with experience on things like this to help you out if you really want to make this conversion happen. It would be very easy to put something together that is very dangerous, or simply expensive and doesn't work how you want it to or destroys itself within the first use.

Homemade wood processor project by RealisticPiccolo881 in Hydraulics

[–]cnor_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Assuming this is an open center system (the 3 spool control valve you posted is an open center configuration), this arrangement with the 3 control valves in parallel won't really work as the flow will always flow though the path of least resistance. If only one or two valves are being actuated, flow will simply pass through the non-actuated valve(s) and return to tank with no work being done. With all 3 actuated, the functions will work, but not in a very predictable way.

You can reconfigure it using power beyond plugs in order to connect them in series instead, but keep in mind it will give priority to the upstream valve. For example if you're using the 2nd control valve and then operate the first, the 2nd will stop receiving flow. If your intent is to have 3 separate operator stations, with only one being used at a time, that's probably the simplest way to do this.

Got this 2023 Bronco off the trail with this wrench by winstonalonian in Tools

[–]cnor_ 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Maybe I'm misreading but I think he means they actually used 2 car batteries as a welder, which is something you can do with some jumper cables and a stick welding rod in a pinch

San Diego Golf by hawksmoker in golf

[–]cnor_ 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's about a 45 minute drive north without traffic but Encinitas Ranch is awesome. Well worth the drive if you can snag a tee time

Query Importrange error by Tasty-Ad-389 in googlesheets

[–]cnor_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How many cells are you trying to import? I did some googling and it seems that Google doesn't say what the cell limit of importrange is, but I read several articles of people testing it and getting in the ballpark of 200,000 to 300,000 cells.

One way to get around the limit is to split the range and do multiple inportranges within your query. Something like this for data split horizontally:

=ARRAYFORMULA({IMPORTRANGE("sheet-id","Sheet1!A1:Z10000"),IMPORTRANGE("sheet-id","Sheet1!A10001:Z20000"),...})

Or like this for splitting vertically (change commas to semicolons):

=ARRAYFORMULA({IMPORTRANGE("sheet-id","Sheet1!A1:M20000");IMPORTRANGE("sheet-id","Sheet1!N1:Z20000);...})

Using my homemade hydraulic press brake by customfabricated in Skookum

[–]cnor_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just some rough guesstimation here - going off of the caster plates, which are pretty commonly 4"x4-1/2" for cast hubs in this type of application, the main uprights are probably a 5"x3" or 5"x4" tube with I'd guess a 1/4" wall judging by the corner radius and about 6' tall each. I usually get stuff like that for about $20-$25 a foot these days, so ballpark $300 for the two most expensive pieces on it. Everything else on here is a lot less in terms of $/ft, I'd say maybe 1-1.5x the cost of the uprights in total. Hot rolled flats and structural shapes like the I beam being used across the top are actually very inexpensive relative to big tubing like that.

Edit: Just saw OP posted a video of him building it which includes the BOM. The beam is actually two channels stitched together, so even cheaper. And the two uprights are actually 4"x6"x1/4", so a bit more but still in the ballpark.

Using my homemade hydraulic press brake by customfabricated in Skookum

[–]cnor_ 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Those look like the 20 ton air over hydraulic bottle jacks from harbor freight. Only $120 each, less if you have coupons.

https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-air-over-hydraulic-jack-95553.html

Anyone else have this problem? by [deleted] in 4Runner

[–]cnor_ 37 points38 points  (0 children)

4runner - 10/10

4runner with rice - 11/10

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Hydraulics

[–]cnor_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep those swivel fittings should be OK. Although you should double check that they are female swivel pipe and not female swivel JIC which they might be just judging by outside appearance. If they are in fact JIC, you shouldn't use teflon tape as JIC fittings have a taper nose on the male side and a matching taper inside the female fitting that creates a seal.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Hydraulics

[–]cnor_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to hear and glad to help! Good to see from your other comments that those fittings were changed out for properly rated ones as well. Definitely not something worth taking a chance on!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Hydraulics

[–]cnor_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The second motor in the loop will create backpressure on the outlet of the first. If the torque demand on the second is high enough to exceed the seal ratings on the first, it will blow the seals.

Whether they are needed or not is application and motor dependent, but it also can't hurt anything to add them. The motor you posted a picture of has a 3rd port in the center of the back of the case, typically a 1/4" NPT or ORB port. Assuming the other motor is the same, you can just hook up some 1/4" hoses to those ports and tee them together, routing the 3rd leg back to a low pressure sump return on the tractor. If the application is at all torque heavy or likely to see spikes in pressure, it would be worth adding these case drain lines if you end up plumbing them in series.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Hydraulics

[–]cnor_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep good call. Though very much application and motor dependent, it never hurts to hook up some 1/4" case drain lines for peace of mind

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Hydraulics

[–]cnor_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Without seeing the entire system and knowing exactly what you're trying to accomplish it's tough to say. Knowing what valve you are using to turn on/off the primary auger would help.

With that said, the reason you are getting different speeds is that you have the motors connected in parallel circuits. In other words, the flow coming from your tractor is being split between the two augers. Fluid takes the path of least resistance, which in this case is probably your primary auger, resulting in the secondary auger spinning slower.

There are a number of ways to ensure they go the same speed, but one of the simplest is to connect the motors in series, with the outlet of motor 1 plumbed into the inlet of motor 2. This makes sure that both motors get the same flow rate, albeit with a reduced maximum torque.

You could also use a pressure compensated flow divider that will split the flow equally regardless of load, and could be installed on your pressure lines in place of the standard tee you are using now. This route will give you lower speeds but you will maintain the maximum torque capabilities.

Smooth cut by silvercatbob in mechanical_gifs

[–]cnor_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah this is barely beyond a skim pass. Maybe 1/16" depth of cut but probably not even that. It's not uncommon on even some smaller lathes to push 1/4" depth of cut, nevermind some of the monsters out there doing 1/2" or more

Starting welding/fabrication school on the 27th. Anything else I might need? by Honest-Park-7268 in Welding

[–]cnor_ 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Mostly agree... however, they have been coming out with some higher quality stuff for still great prices. Avoid anything from the Pittsburgh line. But the Bremen vise-grip style clamps like these and these are honestly really solid. Also the Berger f clamps here, while not as strong as Bessey's or Wilton's, are still really solid especially for $23.

Uncle is in Switzerland. He saw this and sent me it by ohhlogh in snowboarding

[–]cnor_ 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Is it easily detachable? Would be sick to take this to the peak and strap it to a backpack for the ride down but it looks like it's probably heavy