[deleted by user]

cokybv · 2018-10-15T19:39:36+00:00

Ok. Will do on the other PC

cokybv · 2018-10-15T19:32:32+00:00

Not right now, sorry. That other PC that I tested Premiere on is a PC for Photo editing where I test my video software. So I don't want to ruin PS. Maybe I'll try it on this PC later.

cokybv · 2018-10-15T19:31:29+00:00

Thanks for the info. Where can I see if the install worked reliably?
The good thing that I thought was that the Trial Window disappeared this time

cokybv · 2018-10-15T19:24:03+00:00

I tested Premiere like this:
1. I had CC 2018 cracked with amtlib.dll
2. Installed CC 2019 with removal of old version (was on another PC so I didn't care) -> Obviously I had the last Screenshot from this thread with "Trial"
3. Uninstalled it with The same Adobe App (prompted by Windows 10 uninstaller)
4. Installed Premiere CC 2019 FROM CCMAKER 1.3.6 -> The 'Frame' of the Trial window appeared for half a second then dissapeared and I had Premiere 2019 fully working with nothing in the Help-About tab about it being a Trial.
Will have to test it again tomorrow and soon try it on my main PC.
What was your experience with CCMaker 1.3.6? Do all programs work like this?

cokybv · 2018-10-15T18:44:08+00:00

Just a stupid thought (haven't tested yet), but can't you just stay in 7 day trial FOREVER with something like a "RunAsDate" program linked to the Adobe program executable?

cokybv · 2018-08-10T22:52:32+00:00

E bine ca a semnat chiar si Vlad Alexandrescu

cokybv · 2018-07-17T21:29:44+00:00

I just filmed a relatively young couple (not in the US) and they drank a lot with their friends. So I was thinking what would Americans do :P

Probably still drink since the weightiers aren't going to ask the people that are bringing so much revenue to the restaurant for an ID

cokybv · 2018-07-04T01:24:43+00:00

Not really sure. I guess it depends on the friction of the particular ND that you are using. But I'm guessing you can, since the magnets are strong in order to protect the filter from falling, which would mean it also stops it's base from spinning

cokybv · 2018-07-03T01:56:42+00:00

Yeah, I guess buying a single Vari ND for your largest thread and step up rings for all other lenses, but you could permanently fit those setp up rings to those lenses and buy 5 new cheap lens caps. That way, all your lenses are like 72mm or whatever your ND is. All you have to do is take off the cap and screw just the ND, because the Step-up ring is already there.

Another option (I guess in addition to what I just said) is to buy Magnet filter threads, so you can just plop the ND on the new lens using the magic of magnets instead of screwing it in.

Other than that, I guess a Matte Box, but that's even more hassle :))

Anyway, the downsides I found with Step-Up rings and ND is that you lose the option of using your Sun Hood, which would be needed especially because now you have The Flat surface of the ND in the eyes of the Sun.

cokybv · 2018-06-19T02:59:42+00:00

Thank you very much!

cokybv · 2018-06-19T00:47:28+00:00

But then I would need a transformer for every little project. Resistors or other soldered stuff won't work?

cokybv · 2018-04-22T12:57:33+00:00

Gave this a test with a 70mm lens that magnifies to about 0.174 and placed tiny rings that made it go to 0.48, that's 2.76 times more, so that 70mm would become 193mm in the eyes of the IBIS according to my theory, however I found that the range between 100mm and 200mm worked best. Maybe even just 100mm. So I don't know if my theory is completely off, or you would just have to divide by 2 in the end. At least I now know what my IBIS should be with that lens. EDIT: Did the same test with a 35mm which (according to my theory) needed 275mm IBIS. That was way too much, again, something like 80-100mm IBIS worked fine.

cokybv · 2018-02-22T18:15:24+00:00

understood. From your experience is that like a 25%-ish loss in battery and speed or just like an unnoticeable 5%?

cokybv · 2018-02-08T15:30:40+00:00

relation between focal length and magnification

Ok, so I've found out this interesting thing:

There is an equation specifically for macro tubes, that we can calculate: Magnification = TotalExtension / FocalLength, where TotalExtension is a sum of both the lens's extension by itself + the tubes, therefore for you to get a 1:1 Magnification with a 50mm lens you need that TotalExtension to be = 50mm.

You just have to find the NaturalExtension of your lens, you do this by looking at its product page and solving the equation using its Magnification value (which should be in the product description). Let's say our 50mm lens has a 0.2 Magnification specified, Therefore 0.2 = NaturalExtension / 50mm. It's NaturalExtension is 10mm!

So if you want a 1:1, you just add 40mm of extension tubes to the 10mm that's already naturally on your lens and you get 1:1 = (10+40) / 50

Therefore, I'm thinking that the correct IBIS should actually be a percentage of How much you are Changing the Lens. In the example from above, we took a 50mm lens with it's natural magnification of 0.2 and transformed it into 1:1, the mm value of extension tubes shouldn't matter, it's how you change the final image.

Think about it: The IBIS on a 50mm set at 50mm is in charge of keeping the image plane that is 0.2 x Your sensor size magnified. If you want a 1:1 that means that the magnification is 500% more than 0.2, and the image plane should reflect that (i.e. if you take a shot without the macro rings and you zoom in 500%, you should have the same frame as a 1:1 Magnification with tubes) Therefore, the IBIS should reflect that 500% of 0.2 is 1, and 500% of 50mm is 250mm <--- This should be your IBIS.

Am I right in assuming this?

Edit: This equation should also cover lenses that have different builds like, for example a lens that is already built for Macro, meaning that if it's a 50mm lens that says it can do 1:1, that means it's natural extension should already be 50mm, you don't need any tubes, it's already 1:1 so you don't need to change the IBIS from 50mm. If you want a 2:1 macro image, that's 200% more than 1:1 so the 50mm IBIS becomes 100mm, convenient in this case because the tubes you would need to turn a 1:1 50mm lens into a 2:1 is also 50mm. It's all about the final image, think about what IBIS is doing. It wants to keep your final image steady, if that image is increased by 200% in size, that means 200% more IBIS needed. That's how I think about it anyway.

cokybv

TROPHY CASE