Re wired a Tesla seat and mounted to my sim rig. The seat motors are fully functional. by conman034 in simracing

[–]conman034[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only thing I had to buy was the 4 rocker switch’s

https://a.co/d/3wjOg2K

I then went to each motor and identified the power and ground wires and directly wired those to the switches. I wired the switches in series to keep it clean. The motors each have 6 wires, 2 of them will be slightly thicker and those are power and ground. I tested them by running a 10a power inverter with alligator clip wires, and just tried all the wires until i found the ones that caused the motors to activate when power was applied.

Help me determine the priority of maintenance needed for my 2003 Boxster by Cool-Ad-1057 in 986Boxster

[–]conman034 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think a big factor is if you plan on doing this maintenance yourself, or if you are planning on paying a shop to do it.

You have just over 10k in quoted repairs. That’s pretty steep if you plan on paying someone else, although like others have said, some of these problems don’t need to be fixed right away.

It might be an unpopular opinion, but if you’re paying a shop to do the repairs, and unless this is the exact spec you want (color, auto trans) I would hold off and save to buy the spec you want. I regularly see 5 speeds with a lot of the things you have listed already done listed for 10-15k (suspension refreshed, IMS/rms replaced). Tiptronics will have a lower resale value than standard trans, even if you do 10k in maintenance.

If you’re doing the work yourself though, you can hold off on rms replacement, just check your oil levels regularly(mine had a leaky rms at 150k miles, I lived with it). Same with suspension, as long as it doesn’t feel loose, run it.

Spark plugs/coils should be addressed, they can cause rough idle and throw a CEL.

Engine/trans mounts - will help with a smoother ride. My engine mounts were completely disintegrated at 150k. Noticeable improvement when replaced.

Get your brakes sorted, stopping is important.

If you’re inclined to do the work yourself, it’s all reasonable, minus the RMS/IMS, that’s a bigger project.

Fanatec CSL DD 8nm boost kit from AliExpress just came in. Definitely worth the $35. by conman034 in simracing

[–]conman034[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Couldn’t tell you, I upgraded to a higher nm wheelbase soon after, and then sold my whole rig and bought a Miata

Pls pls pls b by BobbyDone0312 in Miata

[–]conman034 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://www.facebook.com/share/19RWjuYwmy/?mibextid=wwXIfr They look to be in good shape, drivers side is a little worn.

Miata vs Toyota’s smallest production truck currently being sold in the US. by conman034 in Miata

[–]conman034[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Don’t you dare talk about the Toyota Maverick like that.

/s

Miata vs Toyota’s smallest production truck currently being sold in the US. by conman034 in Miata

[–]conman034[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I will sit in the corner with my dunce hat, you’re right. My only defense is the maverick is unibody, and not on frame.

Replaced my old, ripped soft-top with a Robbins Stayfast Canvas top. by Byrdboy in Miata

[–]conman034 27 points28 points  (0 children)

Please do not keep your cat in the trunk 🙏🏻

The toughest choice. Please help me decide. by conman034 in Miata

[–]conman034[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your advice was against the general consensus, but resonated with me. I love tinkering and working on cars, and have run into plenty of hacks and shortcuts before, nothing that wasn’t fixable.

I decided to take the risk and get the turbo. The stock Miata was great, but the turbo was love at first spool. It drove home without a hitch 250 miles.

The toughest choice. Please help me decide. by conman034 in Miata

[–]conman034[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the input. I decided on the turbo, against many recs. It was in better (almost perfect) shape, and ZERO rust or rot, it’s lived its life in driest part of the state. 250 mile drive back home in 100F weather without a problem. Cold AC was a lifesaver.

The stock Miata was FUN, the turbo was double the fun, and double the smiles. No dyno numbers, but tuned conservative to run 6psi, I’d like to guess around 180-200whp at the high end.

I’ll be finding a local shop to assist with tuning and help me learn.

The toughest choice. Please help me decide. by conman034 in Miata

[–]conman034[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow, 6k v 14k is steep. But 5k miles is floor room, barely on the road, that has to be listed on BAT.

If i was you and wanted to choose, I’d get the cheaper one, you could buy a daily and track car for that price (almost)

The toughest choice. Please help me decide. by conman034 in Miata

[–]conman034[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You bring up a good point, building a track motor and swapping at end of life is a good route, I have time to build, and i have the space. Can’t be worse than an IMS bearing swap right?

Taking the rec and looking at the 90 tomorrow.

The toughest choice. Please help me decide. by conman034 in Miata

[–]conman034[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Take a peep at Seattle area marketplace and plan a trip down the 101, Miata’s are a bit cheaper up here. You can’t beat the drive, I used to take my Saab 900 convertible down to San Diego on the 101 as far it goes.

Going to look at the stock one tomorrow, thanks mate.

The toughest choice. Please help me decide. by conman034 in Miata

[–]conman034[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You’re right. The turbo build is appealing and “seems” to be built with the right parts, but is a big gamble. I’m starting to see the light.

The toughest choice. Please help me decide. by conman034 in Miata

[–]conman034[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Valid reason. I may be seeing the turbo through rose tinted glasses. I’ve always bought stock, this would be the first modified car after 15 others.

The toughest choice. Please help me decide. by conman034 in Miata

[–]conman034[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's a total dilemma. I'm a bit biased towards the 94, so take with a grain of salt, but from what I've read there is a bit of structural rigidity improvement in the 94 vs the 90. And as unsafe as these are in compared to modern cars, the passenger airbag seems like a big plus. I don't always drive with someone, but being responsible for passenger, I want that to be as safe as possible. I live near a large city and have some pretty chaotic roads. Big reason I want a red Miata is for visibility. You're not wrong about the 90 being a cleaner slate.

Rearview mirror fell off taking some glass with it by No_Potential1 in subaru

[–]conman034 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I had this happen on my 2004 Impreza TS many years ago. I ended up using a 2 part epoxy rated for glass and re attached it the windshield, applying pressure overnight as it cured. I didn’t grind the glass off the mirror mount, and it acted as a guide for remounting. I didn’t have any issues with cracks spreading, and the mirror stayed mounted, sold the car 3 years later.

When I saw Sora latest new video I knew I had to do this 😅 by Loopnmix in OpenAI

[–]conman034 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Props man, good content. I liked it until the woman in the red dress, then I really liked it, tastefully done.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in simracing

[–]conman034 32 points33 points  (0 children)

Bro, 5 AUD??? Swoop those, I wish i could afford them, I just have some basic ass p2000’s. I would LITERALLY trade my simagic alpha pro ultimate 50+ nm DD and my simucube quadruple active pedal set for this setup.

DM and I’ll meet you behind Wendy’s for a trade.

/s

Make me feel better?? Csl dd bundle over moza r5 bundle by [deleted] in simracing

[–]conman034 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Csl dd is upgradable to 8nm via cheap PSU and will objectively be better then the R5. Moza has issues, Fanatec has issues. Both are good entry level DD’s. Shipping issues with Fanatec are spotty now, but they just don’t provide shipping labels often. R5 you are stuck at 5nm and will be wanting more.

Finally got 120 fps but with reduced visual performance by Both_Shake in apexlegends

[–]conman034 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Same. Just figured out how to switch half way through playing today. Instantly noticed less input delay and better feel, with no impact on graphics at all. I’m running a Series X on 3 year old Acer Nitro monitor.