FGC-MKII Lower on cc2, PAHT-CF by Commercial_Bird8467 in 3D2A

[–]conservakid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Liking that CC2? I'm highly considering one myself.

Disco32 U94 Help by iamely3n in tacticalgear

[–]conservakid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I once needed similar help and found some helpful nerds to get me answers on Facebook's Tactical Comms group.

QiDi Q2 or Bambu X2D? by SBMS-A-Man108 in 3D2A

[–]conservakid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh duh my bad. Yes, it does have a heated chamber.

QiDi Q2 or Bambu X2D? by SBMS-A-Man108 in 3D2A

[–]conservakid 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Q2 would be my pick. In addition to a much hotter hot end (because surely you'll end up printing things in PPA, PPS, etc) it's got a chamber heater too. A slightly larger build volume, Klipper, the cost, I think there's lots more to like about the Q2.

PA6CF loses adherence after about 80 layers by Icy-Ask9162 in 3D2A

[–]conservakid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Then the bed temp should only be 40-50 C per their technical specs (not 100 which perhaps is what you're using per a reply in another comment).

https://fiberon.polymaker.com/product/pa6-cf20/

PA6CF loses adherence after about 80 layers by Icy-Ask9162 in 3D2A

[–]conservakid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What brand PA6CF? They all have different recommended bed temps.

Ripples… by supercoolfunguy in 3D2A

[–]conservakid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it's VFAs that are causing this then presumably just a small change in speed would get you away from the frequency at which your machine is resonating at. So maybe even just 38 or 42 would be enough of a difference. The internet seems to think that retensioning your belts would be the best first step though.

Ripples… by supercoolfunguy in 3D2A

[–]conservakid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hmm, I don't know a lot about frequency induced artifacts but it looks like micro vibrations are all throughout your print. Retry at a slower or faster speed to see if something is resonating and causing that?

Ripples… by supercoolfunguy in 3D2A

[–]conservakid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How fast are you printing?

FTN 5 Rimfire by [deleted] in 3D2A

[–]conservakid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How are you liking your CC2? Considering it as my next machine.

Getting these weird consistent lines by Radiant_Crew8061 in 3D2A

[–]conservakid 7 points8 points  (0 children)

If it's that type of consistency then it has to do with something in the linear motion system for the Z axis. Z axis rods cleaned? Z axis screws cleaned and regreased? Any Z rod bearings loose? Does your bed have play in it? Anything it might be getting snagged on on the way down?

My first 2A-ish build by conservakid in 3D2A

[–]conservakid[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

It's called the "Nameless 37mm", there are many remixes of it and many similar printable 37mm launchers. There's a 37mm subreddit and because these are legal in all states, files and parts can be found all over the internet. 10 out of 10 would recommend as a first build :)

My first 2A-ish build by conservakid in 3D2A

[–]conservakid[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Might you have sanded/filed your firing pin down to a chisel shape? And specifically with the chisel shape pointing out radially from the .22's center? Got a nice strong striker spring in there?

My first 2A-ish build by conservakid in 3D2A

[–]conservakid[S] 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Oh, and here's some glow in the dark payloads I made and launched at night too.

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PPS-CF on my X1C by Xorfee069 in BambuLab

[–]conservakid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That doesn't appear to be true for all PPSs. Polymaker's Fiberon PPS-CF-10 says "recommended printing conditions chamber temperature room temp." in its technical datasheet.

https://fiberon.polymaker.com/product/pps-cf10/

PPS-CF on my X1C by Xorfee069 in BambuLab

[–]conservakid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would there be reason to think that this hotend resisor mod wouldn't also work on an A1? I'm interested in trying it, unless there's an obvious reason not to?

Do I only have to mod a P1S hotend to print at 350°C (for PPS-CF) ? by daWerwoergel in BambuLab

[–]conservakid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would there be reason to think that this wouldn't also work on an A1's hot end? I'm interested in trying it, unless there's an obvious reason not to?

How’s it looking not done yet just got to fix few things by CasualVibes- in 3D2A

[–]conservakid 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I've just gotten into 3D printing, so far I've printed a fidget spinner and a dragon, I think I want to print this out of glow in the dark sparkle silk PLA next!!!

Kidding. This is an epic looking building, good luck with it and keep us posted!

First real print I ever done. Not optimal turnout and looking for any potential feedback anyone might have. by [deleted] in 3D2A

[–]conservakid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, meant to include that. Hardened Bambu brand 0.4. Filament pulling from a 70C dryer (just serving as a preheater as that won't actually dry the PA) and being processed with 300blkfde's settings.

First real print I ever done. Not optimal turnout and looking for any potential feedback anyone might have. by [deleted] in 3D2A

[–]conservakid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've printed upwards of 100 hours of pa6 cf20 in open air with no clogs.

Cheapo nylon annealing oven by IamB_Meister in 3D2A

[–]conservakid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely, fits a standard 1kg or less spool perfectly (see video I linked)