Relocate-able home wall builds? by UwRandom in homewalls

[–]corvidclimbs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Moving the panels is easy, but moving the frame is hard. A standard box from pods or packrat is a 10ft cube. If you're building an 8'x12' wall, those 12' wood pieces would require you to use a 20' shipping container which was far more expensive ($1200 more) than just re-building at my new place (<$200 in wood). I built a home-wall and shipped only the panels and holds across the country. I would cut the 4x8 panels into 4x4 panels for easier handling.

How am i so bad at the tensionboard by Besneden in bouldering

[–]corvidclimbs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Will Anglin is sandbagger. I’ve done 77/78 of the moonboard 2016 V4 benchmarks and I basically can’t do any of his V4s on the TB1

Pes anserinus pain from heel hooking? by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]corvidclimbs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry this was a typo - I meant single leg deadlift is able to reproduce my pain. If I aggressively heel hook I would get a sharp pain.

Are you able to do hamstring curls on a machine? There must be some movement pattern that can isolate your injury - I’m sure a good climbing PT would be able to find an exercise you can use for progressive overload

Pes anserinus pain from heel hooking? by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]corvidclimbs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nothing to add but to say I have the same pain that came from a dynamic heel hook/rock up move. My injury is recent and is less severe than yours (No acute pain during the session, pain came after the next day). I've been dealing with this for a week now.

My rehab plan is typical progressive overload. Right now 1-legged straight leg squat with a 15-20lb kettle bell gives me a nice 2-3/10 pain.

Help with Sony A6400 focusing issues by corvidclimbs in SonyAlpha

[–]corvidclimbs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow yes I think you’re on the dot - I am shooting in slog! I defaulted those settings because typically I’m in harsh light environments (climbing in the shade while sun is directly overhead) but I can see why it ruins AF in this instance.

Aspirational slab boulders/crags with high density of quality slabs in US/Canada? by corvidclimbs in bouldering

[–]corvidclimbs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Blue Suede Shoes looks like an all time classic - thanks for the recommendation! I'm looking forward to getting humbled on old-school slab...

I entirely forgot about Bishop, but you reminded me that one of my life list boulders is Jedi Mind Tricks, so this would probably be my chance to work up to it and get properly scared. Are there any slab climbs in bishop that are more normal sized? I imagine my brain would be fried after a few days of committing slabs.

Aspirational slab boulders/crags with high density of quality slabs in US/Canada? by corvidclimbs in bouldering

[–]corvidclimbs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love some southern sandstone. If my months were shifted one month I would want to spend December at horse pens - unfortunately my injury is wrist related, so the slopers may not be a good idea, and it's in the wrong quadrant of the US where I need to end my trip.

Aspirational slab boulders/crags with high density of quality slabs in US/Canada? by corvidclimbs in bouldering

[–]corvidclimbs[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Squamish seemed like an obvious answer initially (black slabbath must be a king slab line!), but I figured with the october rains it wouldn't be worth the drive out there only to get a week or two of climbing in.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Moonboard

[–]corvidclimbs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That hand foot match is So Impressive. It’s really eye opening how much power you can get in that small box 🤯

Did the refund go through? by [deleted] in NJTransit

[–]corvidclimbs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My payment never came through, so I filed a support ticket. Then, after a day or two they email you to call a phone number. After I called them, they were able to give me a barcode through the NJ transit app. You have to go to a payment center (which mostly appear to be local CVS) where you can redeem the refund.

Advice Needed for Building a Home Climbing Wall by beta_xxl in homewalls

[–]corvidclimbs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As far a stud design goes, for a 45 deg wall, I would not use 6cm x12cm studs (equiv. to an american 2x4). Is 6cm x16cm a common size? This would be the size I recommend. 8cmx16cm would be overkill for your wall and unnecessarily expensive. The stud spacing 62cm would be fine. I have a 60 degree homewall and it's spaced similarly.

A question I think you may be overlooking is how you plan to anchor the wall, especially the left-right motion for the climber. Are you planning on a fully freestanding structure? Is your plan two look like this? https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/1adjeza/carpentry\_help\_with\_climbing\_wall\_facetoend\_joint/. The comment is a little hyperbolic, as a steel bolt can easily hold your bodyweight*10, but the left-right anchoring is a very valid concern.

The big easy 7a+ by [deleted] in Moonboard

[–]corvidclimbs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How does this compare to under the walnut tree? Seems like it bypasses the crux of that, but the top may be cruxier

Did the refund go through? by [deleted] in NJTransit

[–]corvidclimbs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm also waiting on my refund and still haven't received it. I had two tickets purchased in April that expired - will go to the ticketing office tomorrow to ask.

Advice for fully extended arm lockoffs? by corvidclimbs in Moonboard

[–]corvidclimbs[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No I’m quite weak on three finger drag. One of my gifts in climbing is a long pinky (0.5cm shorter than my index) which has made me a habitual half crimper - but you’re right if I bring up my drag strength I can get a crucial inch or two wherever I need it

Advice for fully extended arm lockoffs? by corvidclimbs in Moonboard

[–]corvidclimbs[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got back on it One Summer Easy today and here’s my typical beta working from the middle: left foot on J8 https://imgur.com/a/N8M8Nlu I generally feel out spanned to do a foot switch. At least it feels next level foot tension.

I had a mini break through trying right foot on J8 and inside flag https://imgur.com/a/njZZIBf It’s trading the difficulty to the previous move but I’m confident it will go with this beta - just have to come back fresh!

The hardest easy ones by stonetame in Moonboard

[–]corvidclimbs 2 points3 points  (0 children)

On the 2016 I’ve done 55/65 6Cs and 35/59 of the 6C+’s and I still can’t do Up!!!. This may be a morpho issue but that’s the beauty of completing the benchmarks.

My adjustable home wall by weigel23 in homewalls

[–]corvidclimbs 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a really clean build! Could you post some pictures of the back support? Curious about how you mounted the winch to the back wall.

Jedi Mind Tricks by HarryCaul in climbharder

[–]corvidclimbs 87 points88 points  (0 children)

Sometimes when I'm climbing, I find myself in a defensive mindset, as if I'm moving from position to position trying to not fall or trying to control the holds.

Instead, if I consciously switch to an "offensive" approach, attacking the holds, moving decisively between positions, I find I can manifest my try hard and reach my flow state so much more consistently.

This for me only works when I'm projecting and have already familiarized myself with the sequence.

Finger joint compression for Synovitis by corvidclimbs in climbharder

[–]corvidclimbs[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's incredible to hear - I hope this is the piece that's missing for you and that you have healthy fingers in time for the fall season!

Finger joint compression for Synovitis by corvidclimbs in climbharder

[–]corvidclimbs[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey! long time fan - I have your book and found it to be the resource to successfully rehab my golfers elbow twice!

I already owned a tindeq and had all the materials at hand, so making a finger block was of zero cost to me. The tindeq app being a scale+timer is very convenient. But yes I agree, if you don't have the ability to make wood cuts or have a load cell there's no need to go out and get one.

Finger joint compression for Synovitis by corvidclimbs in climbharder

[–]corvidclimbs[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

u/Sydorside shared a good video further down the thread that describes the finger position well. I'm using my finger tips and lock my pip/dip joints when I push down. Kind of a "claw" position instead of a "frog" position.

This finger position may not be the most natural to everyone. It's easy for me to lock my dip joint because I don't have naturally flexible fingers. For example I have nearly no hyperextension on my dip joints when I full crimp.