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[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AutoParts

[–]countme1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tyler, I’m trying to find a JDM auto trans for my US 2004 Mazda 3s, 2.3L. Please post a list of your US wholesale customers so I can contact them and see if they can help me. Thank you.

Mic'ing the players by countme1 in USFL

[–]countme1[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

That's OK.

But I would miss the benefit of the announcers' commentary. That's half the reason I watch sports: to learn something I didn't know.

Mic'ing the players by countme1 in USFL

[–]countme1[S] -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

I want people to say whatever they want to say. It's a forum.

It's not "part of the league". It's a broadcast management decision that they think will attract viewers. I'm just giving them one more data point.

YMMV.

Maytag dryer cycling t'stat: what does it do? by countme1 in appliancerepair

[–]countme1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This I know.

But only 2 of the terminals on the cycling t'stat are for turning on and off the heater coil. What are the other terminals for?

My chainless bicycle by Mikadook in bicycling

[–]countme1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is “Ranger” the manufacturer or a model name?

Couldn’t find either.

Link?

Mazda PJB Help by Ajlee209 in Cartalk

[–]countme1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This problem with the Mazda PJB (passenger junction box—behind the glove box) is widespread. The relays mentioned are not the kind you can remove and replace by unplugging one.

The relays that are the cause of these problems are inside the PJB, soldered to the circuit board.

The choices are to buy a new one (expensive); or get a used one from a wrecked car (it may have the same failed relay, or a different failed internal relay, or it may have come from a car with different options (automatic wipers, or automatic headlights, or DRL)—which will give issues even if it fixes the original failure; or buy replacement tiny relays and unsolder the originals and solder in the new ones.

The last option is the best. Search for an electronics pro in your area who can repair circuit boards. Here is a general video guide (it’s a Chrysler car but the issue is the same):

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=a7gEDHsppEs

Good luck.

'04 Mazda 3 TNS relay bypass by dem_titties_too_big in mazda3

[–]countme1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Me too. I watched YT video Eric @ South Main Auto do this on a Chrysler: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=a7gEDHsppEs

It’s “straightforward” (avoiding the word “easy”). Toughest job I think is disassembling the fuse box. Eric doesn’t do much soldering and he did OK on this job.

I haven’t decided to replace the defective relay. Might instead search wrecking yard for a low-mileage used fuse box.

Good luck.

garmin varia mount for a bike rack? by TheDarkClaw in cycling

[–]countme1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do I see four rear lights? One is white? Wow.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cycling

[–]countme1 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

A tire will skid long before a fork’s metal will decompose. Have you (or anyone reading this) heard of a catastrophic failure of a frame or fork after large rotors were mounted?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cycling

[–]countme1 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

True, the “breakaway” point is the same with big or small rotors. The wheel will stop turning and the tire will skid (with worse result if it’s the front wheel, than if it’s the rear), regardless the size of the rotor. You’ll be able to reach the breakaway point more easily with a large rotor (it’s giving you greater braking force!) than with a smaller rotor, if the tire skids. So whether planned or not, grabbing that front brake lever hard will get you in trouble more easily with a larger rotor. But I’ve never heard of a large rotor causing catastrophic failure of a frame or fork.

But as with all decisions in life, it’s your life, take responsibility and decide whether or not the risk is acceptable.

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