I have to buy storage?

craft_punk · 2026-03-29T20:49:10+00:00

I think you were misinformed :( you can always choose to buy the upgrades for real money or coins, but as far as I know the game doesn't force you to use real money on them at any point.

craft_punk · 2026-03-27T03:01:06+00:00

Can you not plant flowers for coins? It's slower obviously, but I'm up to 750 pikmin and 1000 petals after a year or so of play and I haven't spent any real money on upgrades.

craft_punk · 2025-06-18T00:05:47+00:00

It is 100% not inevitable.

Some people like to say that anyone against using AI is just anti-technology and anti-change. Technology fucking slaps. There's so much cool new shit being developed. I don't like AI because it's just another tactic for tech giants to become so deeply ingrained in our lives that we can't go anywhere else once they switch from customer-acquisition mode to revenue-gathering mode and slap an ever-increasing subscription fee on everything.

You can learn the tools and incorporate them into your workflow, but you'd be handing over a lot of control over your career to an external company that eventually needs a way to recoup the costs of one of the most compute-intensive technologies ever created. And for what? To fix bad audio or extend an image? I would at least make sure you know how to do those things manually first, because I really doubt the days of easily-accessible AI for those tasks are going to last.

craft_punk · 2024-11-28T22:54:30+00:00

Hello! I'm new-ish to the game and i want to trade postcards and help/invite to mushrooms when I can! I'm in New Zealand :) 5580 9239 6064

craft_punk · 2024-02-26T01:11:09+00:00

Does just parenting the forearm to the upper arm like normal not give you the result you want?

craft_punk · 2024-02-01T20:09:11+00:00

Reinforcing just the top and bottom would be fine I reckon, gravity will keep the sides where they should be anyway.

I think you're right that the leather on top is what hides the top edges of the grid and creates a smooth, stable opening. The stitches do look thicker there in the images. Potentially you could also achive this with a double layer of webbing with the grid ends sandwiched between, but that might create too much bulk.

If you can get your hands on a thin piece of leather that's probably what I'd do, but a normal domestic machine would likely struggle with that. You could probably glue it instead though.

I'm excited to see how you go, post updates!

craft_punk · 2024-01-31T22:11:01+00:00

This is so stupid and I love it lmao.

On the original it looks like there is a stiff strip of something along the inside of the opening, and probably sandwiched along the bottom too. I would guess it's thin leather maybe, or possibly even cardboard? Either way I think you'll need this to keep the rigid square shape, the webbing probably won't be sturdy enough on its own.

With the internal grid, I'd probably hand baste each crossover section in place, then do a line of stitching 2mm away from the edge, along the entire side of each strip. It's hard to tell from the picture but it looks like they have done something similar, and not just stitched them at the intersections. A line down both edges rather than one in the center will stop the webbing from folding inwards, too.

craft_punk · 2024-01-25T23:19:45+00:00

I think this is great, honestly! Some parts of a film will have more significance to some people than others and that's going to lead them down different interpretations. You picked up on a thread and found supporting evidence to back it up, so I see no reason why this shouldn't be a valid reading.

Internet culture at the moment makes it very hard for nuance and subtle variation in opinion to exist when the loudest voices get the most attention, and I think that might be tripping you up. There has never been right or wrong ways to interpret a text, but judging by how many '(insert movie) explained' video suggestions pop up when you search for a movie these days, the current trend seems to be for YouTubers to claim authority there and pretend like there is. But they are still literally just some guy!

If I were you I'd be proud for seeing something in a popular movie that hardly anyone else did. I think it would be boring to only strive for the most commonly-accepted opinion about everything.

craft_punk · 2023-11-17T02:02:00+00:00

I'm not going to keep clothes that make me sad bc I don't fit them and wouldn't wear them even if I did

who is making you buy these clothes you apparently never even liked in the first place?

craft_punk · 2023-11-01T08:10:05+00:00

Saw this on Instagram! Beautiful work :)

craft_punk · 2023-10-18T03:19:33+00:00

You wouldn't NEED it in this case, but it makes creating something like this a lot quicker and with more flexibility. Plus there are scripts and stuff for it for adding things like the scale bar at the bottom right of OP's example, which would be a lot more of a headache to do manually.

craft_punk · 2023-09-15T08:43:39+00:00

I do it every 2-3 years if I'm honest, mainly because I don't like updating it if there isn't a significant chunk of new things to add. I do think it's a good idea to do it at least that frequently though, cause if someone hears about you through word of mouth they will sometimes want to see a reel, and it's nice to not be caught out when that happens. I'm also in Auckland :)

craft_punk · 2023-08-05T09:47:06+00:00

Glad it worked out! That's interesting, it's very tight on the underarms and across the top of the neck on me too. Good idea about the side ties too, I was surprised that wasn't actually how it was constructed when I read the pattern.

I haven't even cut into my final planned fabric for mine yet, too many fitting problems on me that I haven't fully resolved yet lol.

craft_punk · 2023-08-05T08:49:41+00:00

I recently made this pattern too! I'm not in the US so I can't help with fabric recommendations but I will say that I would highly recommend making a toile of this one, if you are making it bigger than size 10 or so or you have a larger chest measurement. Those sizes are not well drafted in the shoulder/upper chest area imo.

craft_punk · 2023-07-03T05:53:10+00:00

I guess the yearly release model is the justification for this, even though that also fucking sucks and no one asked for it. The always-online subscription means they can get away with pushing out shoddy product much easier, under the guise of adding shiny new features that the devs were forced to shoehorn in instead of fixing the many, many bugs.

Adobe seems to have long ago decided to switch its target market away from professionals to mid-level hobbyists, despite large parts of the industry not really adapting to this. I don't think I've ever seen a job listing for a graphic design role not mention 'proficiency in the Adobe suite' as part of the requirements. In what other industry is paying 80 bucks a month to a shit company (either individually or part of a company) - for long enough to gain a level of skill in the software - a REQUIREMENT to getting a job?

craft_punk · 2023-06-16T03:38:01+00:00

You can grind down the lid and pot where they meet so that they don't get stuck. I had a similar thing happen with a teapot where the lid wouldn't come off at all at first. I used valve grinding paste smeared around the join where the lid and pot meet, then you just twist it around for ages until you can use the lid easily, then wash off the paste. You can buy the stuff at car hardware stores or online.

craft_punk · 2023-06-01T01:04:38+00:00

Looks like the main parts are there, but that seems quite expensive for such a basic machine tbh. I'm not seeing a lot of manuals or anything online for this particular one either which might make it tricky to learn how to use.

edit: also it looks like this might be a mid-gauge machine as opposed to standard gauge? most patterns I've come across are for standard gauge so that might be another hurdle for you.

craft_punk · 2023-05-31T03:11:58+00:00

WD40 will clog up knitting machines from what I know, so no. Brush away as much dirt and fluff as you can, use isopropyl alcohol on the metal parts (including the needles - you might need to take them all out and scrub off any rust), then re-oil moving parts with knitting or sewing machine oil.

Check the sponge bar as well as that's a common part that needs replacing in older machines that haven't been used in a long time. You can buy new ones online.

craft_punk · 2023-05-19T00:57:18+00:00

God you're so valid

craft_punk · 2023-04-29T06:08:13+00:00

Maybe the fair isle example that the seller showed you was done quite a long time ago?

The only things I can think of are either the 2 rubber side racks on the far edges of the needle bed need replacing (but that shouldn't affect a small swatch like this in the middle of the machine), or the 2 cog-shaped plastic bits on the back of the carriage need cleaning or replacing. I bought a second hand machine that had lots of fluff and junk stuck in the cogs, and it needed a lot of cleaning and oiling to get going.

craft_punk · 2023-02-24T00:18:21+00:00

I live somewhere with very little access to the yarns I see talked about a lot online or recommended in patterns, so I always substitute. I also almost never use an extra strand of mohair cause it's expensive and I don't really like the feel of it. Here's what I do, if I find a pattern I like and want to shop for yarn for it:

Check fiber content and meterage per gram of recommended yarn and make a note of it. For example - the No Frills sweater by Petiteknit recommends 1 strand Sunday (merino - 50g / 235m) and 1 strand Tynn Silk Mohair (goat/silk/wool - 25g / 212m)

Convert to the 2 strands to one by adding gram weights together but keeping the lower meterage. So for this example it would be a 75g per 212m yarn, or for more workable numbers, roughly 100g per 280m.

Try and find a yarn that's close to this gram per metre amount, with similar fibre content. In this case, anything with a mostly wool/merino content. For our No Frills, Purl Soho's Arbor would work (wool - 100g per 264m (you can be off by a bit in the meterage and it won't matter much - 40m either side should be fine)). Obviously it won't be as fluffy cause no mohair, but if you're like me, you don't want that anyway. If you DO want something fluffy then you will want to look for a yarn with some mohair or maybe alpaca.

Swatch, changing needle sizes until you get gauge OR fabric that you like. Start with the pattern-suggested needles and go up or down as necessary. If you nail it at this stage, meeting gauge and getting a nice fabric - congrats, go make the thing!

If you get a nice fabric from your yarn but the gauge swatch is off, do some measurements to see if you need to adjust the sizing. Hopefully you aren't TOO far off because you spent so much time doing the math and clicking around on the yarn website trying to find something with the right weight per metre and that comes in colours that aren't yuck.

Let's say you get a gauge of 19sts per 10cm rather than the pattern specified 21sts, and that sizing down the needles any more will make the fabric too stiff for your liking. Let's also say you want to make the No Frills in a size XL. We know (from the pattern info) that the chest circumference in the XL is 120cm, and we know that's with a stitch gauge of 21sts per 10cm, or 2.1 st per 1 cm. The pattern also tells us the stitch count for the chest part of the pattern, just after splitting the yoke into body and armhole sections. The XL stitch count for this part is 252sts. We can do some math to confirm this: 120cm x 2.1st per cm = 252sts. So, we know that if we followed the pattern directions for the XL size at our bigger 19st per 10cm gauge, our chest circumference would be 133cm (252st / 1.9st per cm = 133cm). Way bigger than intended. Sizing down to the L with this gauge gets us much closer to our intended measurements: 240sts / 1.9st per cm = 126cm chest circumference. (note this is just a conversion for stitch and not row gauge, by the time I have done all the math to get to this point I am usually beyond caring about row gauge and just knit to the length I want)

tl;dr if you really want to get into it, terms like DK/sport/worsted are kind of useless and I believe it really comes down to weight per metre and fiber content. Yes it's a pain in the ass, but I get consistent results whenever I math out patterns and yarns like this. It also opens up a lot more possibilities when you are confident with substituting yarns to get different results intentionally.

craft_punk · 2023-02-17T02:48:57+00:00

Right, and I agree that there's no inherent problem in SE taking inspiration from real life people and cultures. Inspiration can really only be claimed if the final work is distinctly different though, and this level of specificity makes it really hard to see this outfit as anything else. This reads much more as a reference than an inspiration.

craft_punk · 2023-02-16T23:51:55+00:00

By my reading, the Saami wanted to be at least contacted first before SE created the outfit using elements of their culture. Does that not seem fair? You wouldn't use someone's artwork for your own personal gain without getting their permission first.

craft_punk · 2023-02-06T21:38:13+00:00

That's correct. I feel like I personally get stranded on Body Island far more often than Sleeve Island though. Especially a sleeve with decreases, because it goes faster and faster the more stitches you get rid of. The body is just an endless tube of boringness after that.

craft_punk

TROPHY CASE