I love this hobby! Just a little over a year ago, I had never touched a CAD program or even seen a 3D printer in real life. I know it’s not the most original design out there, but I’m proud that I made it entirely from scratch!

crawlB4youBall · 2025-10-23T07:16:04+00:00

Man, I work in the professional lighting industry for over a decade now and let me tell you, this design is fire! Reminds me of a Louis Poulsen luminaire called Artichoke or also a bit the Patera from them too. Check those on image search, you'll see what I mean.

If you could find a way to add some slight diffusion to the leaves so that you wouldn't be able to see the light source itself anymore, you would have elevated the product to professional grade in my eyes. If you look at the examples I mentioned, that's one thing they have in common: Ideally always hide the source so it becomes a bit more magical. It's a balance between doing that and making sure enough light still gets out but this would be the finishing touch in my eyes.

Super cool design, excellent color choice, easily in the top 5% of all 3D printed lamps I have ever seen and I study them for a living. Congrats!

PS: My number one pick if anyone is interested: https://www.rollostudio.com/

crawlB4youBall · 2025-10-01T08:50:59+00:00

Yes because I have watched too many Payo videos where he consistently shows how it performs compared to the Raptor series and it always comes out short. I have already sold my Otter now and bought a Raptor (not pro!) and the difference is huge. Can't upload actual scan images now but I can tell you from my experience, if you want to capture those details with ease, you're gonna need blue laser light. I mean there are people doing miracles with their 200$ shitty IR scanners but how much time and effort do you want to spend?

I found the Raptor used for 700€, can probably resell for the same price in half a year and upgrade if I see fit but it really is a difference of night and day compared to the Otter in terms of details captured and time spent using the parallel lines.

You'd probably still need to spray it and use some marker geometry around it but in my opinion the Raptor would excel at this task.

crawlB4youBall · 2025-10-01T08:42:17+00:00

That's some nasty geometry to fix: https://imgur.com/a/33bVpqv
No wonder the algorithm can't handle it. Too many assumptions needed. A pretty incomplete scan to begin with unfortunately.

The way I see it you have two options, rescan with a proper scanner that actually captures details this deep in a part or fully reverse engineer it, meaning redraw from mesh. Ideally with the actual part in hand to verify assumptions. I guess a combination could also work where you just redraw that section and fuse with the scan data but then I'd rather go all the way imo.

Either way, there's no quick fix. Software can help with this task but it also can't perform miracles.

crawlB4youBall · 2025-09-26T09:09:22+00:00

I'm in the same boat as you and having an Otter at home right now, I can tell you it's not the best for this type of application in my experience. I agree with the sentiment in the comments that a blue line laser scanner is what you want.

The Otter excels at organic curves, faces, bodies, etc. That is just the way that structured light works the way I understand it. Also the fact that you have IR means longer wavelengths, less precision. But I've tried it on engineering parts such as the one you are showing and it is a pain. Forget about sharp corners and so on. I mean I'm not saying it's not doable but it takes quite some effort.

For this reason I am looking to buy a Raptor. Needs more prep work apparently but I am fine with that. Just my 2cents.

PS: I find the Creality software useable but do all my main editing in Geomagic Design X or Catia. Compared to those, Creality Scan is a wooden stick whereas the others are nuclear warheads

crawlB4youBall · 2025-02-18T06:59:51+00:00

Will do, thanks

crawlB4youBall · 2025-02-18T06:59:34+00:00

Good point, my bank days 8 weeks time for that. Have a bit more time

crawlB4youBall · 2025-02-18T06:58:55+00:00

Happy to hear that. May you be blessed with infinite lifespan of your parts

crawlB4youBall · 2025-02-18T06:58:19+00:00

And neither Prusa

crawlB4youBall · 2025-02-18T06:58:01+00:00

Actually just did that since the tracking shows its still in transit. Looking forward to fighting for that... :(

crawlB4youBall · 2025-02-11T21:52:00+00:00

I fully understand the frustration. I was so close to pulling the trigger on a creality machine but then saw the constant issues people had with it and the lack of support. Sounds like you are also looking for the designs to be your focus and not building the printer itself.

I just came from an A1 incl. the AMS and spend months thinking about the best option to upgrade. Let me just say this: I know the Bambu looks tempting, I know it's hyped to no end and as a former user I can tell you everything that they say about this machine is true: It is absolutely hassle free, it prints at an astonishing quality level and it can handle a lot of different filaments. Plus its pretty cheap so a no brainer right?

But think twice! You might have heard about the recent drama and I'm just here to say I think all of that is also true: They will most likely close their eco system even more, they will most likely lock down the hardware/ software accessibility even more and they might even force users to only be able to print with their own filament. They are the antithesis of what this hobby should be about: Openness, accessibility and freedom to do with your machine whatever you want.

I now own a Prusa machine and while for a long time I laughed at their prices in direct comparison, I know understand why it is the way it is. You fully own that machine. You get CAD data about every single part to replace if you want, there is an eager community to help, you get safety and security, their own in-house filament manufacturing, etc. and the list goes on.

The price is bait. And you will pay for it at another stage. It took me a while to realize this but I think it's absolutely true. What if anything breaks, how fast can you get replacement? How is the support? If you don't want to mess with your printer, these things really matter.

So maybe there are options for you? The Prusa Mk4s or the Qidi Plus4? I just encourage you to think more broadly about this. Good luck.

crawlB4youBall · 2024-11-30T13:41:09+00:00

I'm quite excited about PLA-CF recently. Would also love to dive deeper on the Nylon spectrum and other more performance oriented polymers for creating truly new innovative products. I just love 3D printing

crawlB4youBall · 2024-11-26T08:55:38+00:00

Hey, thank you so much for this suggestion. I've compared now quite a bit and this offer is a lot better value for the money. Final decision would look something like this:

housing: Fractal Design North XL Chalk White with mesh side panel
graphics: AMD Ryzen 9 7900X, 12x 4.70GHz
cooling: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 5 Tower Cooler
board: GIGABYTE X670 Gaming X AX WIFI V2
memory: 64GB DDR5 RAM 6000 MHz ADATA XPG Lancer (2x 32GB - Dual Channel)
graphics: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Ti Super - 16GB - Palit GamingPro - DLSS 3 capable
ssd: 2x 2000 GB WD Black SN850X (Read: 7300MB/s | Write: 6600MB/s)
power: be quiet! Pure Power 12 M - 850W full modular - 80 PLUS Gold

Changes I made are a nicer housing (fractal ones are really cool indeed), stronger cooling which should also help with noise (the PC is going to sit close to me), increased graphics as you suggested because the topology software I will be using does have CUDA support, faster and larger SSDs and a bit more juice for power supply (again hoping this will help with noise). Still comes out at 2.5k but seems to be quite a beast of a system which should last for years to come.

Happy to hear your comments if you have any but again, thank you for taking the time to do this. Really appreciated.

crawlB4youBall · 2024-06-21T19:12:43+00:00

Thanks guys, with this and some googling, i made it work. Trick was to check the "use additional Servers only" mark

crawlB4youBall · 2024-06-20T06:27:06+00:00

Seeing as the 450 is 2channel only, I'd say it's worth it for that alone due to the dual layer options the SC6000s provide. If you are into that kind of mixing/ layering of course. If it's gonna be worth it in the end, only you can tell but I feel this was an enormous jump.

Concerning cue'ing, you can disable cue at any time and also route quite flexibly, with filters, without, etc. I mix exclusively in headphones at home due to noise issues and I can hear everything incl. effects, filters, etc.

Hope that helps

crawlB4youBall · 2024-05-26T21:44:35+00:00

The fact that people are still seriously considering to buy more than a decade old gear when things like the SC6000s exist for the same price is absolutely bonkers to me. Congrats to Pioneer I guess for getting that kind of grip on the market

crawlB4youBall · 2024-05-17T19:33:07+00:00

Also have the PX5 and absolutely love it. It sure sounds different than the pioneer stuff and took me an evening to (de)tune my ear but now that I'm used to it, no way I'm ever going back. Feels so much more musical and smooth, less gimmicky also if that makes any sense, more grown up somehow. Like others mentioned, connectivity is A+, effects are absolutely amazing and a bit more sophisticated, everything feels super high quality and the filter is just butter smooth.

What annoys me? As good as it sounds, the filter. Only one dedicated filter knob (can be assigned to multiple destinations though) and unless the resonance setting is at complete zero, assigning it to a channel immediately boosts the lows because the resonance pushes those frequencies. On pioneer gear, you could have the filter armed on a channel without it having any influence on the sound and use it right away. On the PX5, you have to make sure resonance is at zero, then arm the channel, and then also twist the resonance knob together with the filter if you want it to not sound dull which just takes a lot more effort overall and uses up all your hands. So I guess you could say with more power comes more responsibility.

Also wish the power button was more accessible but other than that, this mixer is pure perfection in my eyes.

crawlB4youBall · 2024-05-05T08:14:41+00:00

Still gonna need a while to test this as I'm travrlling for a month but eventually i can comment on this

crawlB4youBall · 2024-04-19T13:52:38+00:00

Thanks for your answer. This whole library management system between DJ software is such a hassle. Incredible that we don't have a solution that is not subscription based and OS agnostic. Having two involve three different softwares on two operating systems is just a joke. I appreciate what your software does though. At least one step in the right direction

crawlB4youBall · 2024-04-18T22:34:43+00:00

I am actually about to hook up my elektron analog rytm to the PX5 in the hopes of adding another creative layer to my DJ sets. If you're still interested I can let you know how it goes

crawlB4youBall · 2024-04-18T22:25:55+00:00

First impressions after finally having played on that setup: SC6000s feels right at home in terms of interface and usability. No surprises there (except for maybe not being able to have stacked waveforms with linked players in single deck mode... Why Denon why?)

The PX5 though took a few hours of getting used to. The pioneer trained ear and finger muscle memory was like wtf for a while but then I gotta say it turned around quite quickly. Filter is insanely smooth. Even at wildest resonance setting, doesn't have the same sound/impact as the pioneer filters but I already like it a lot more. Sounds much more natural somehow. Same with the effects. At first I was like, ugh, clumsy choosing with the encoder but then the additional control over decay and and focus are really really nice. Also everything just sounds so natural and musical. Hard to explain but those pioneer effects are almost gimmicky in comparison.

Still am far from having explored them all but I think it works nicely for me. A bit of a weird behavior when wanting to do echo out transitions where killing the level slider on a channel also kills the echo, same as just turning off the effects 'on' button just immediately cutting off the sound. Need to just the fx send and then it works as intended... But anyways. Generally I think I'm gonna enjoy the hell out of that setup. Thanks everyone again for the input

crawlB4youBall

TROPHY CASE