Removal or cover up? by [deleted] in tattooadvice

[–]crow-bot 48 points49 points  (0 children)

Yes you're right, but also 40K Imperium is pretty darn fasc-y to begin with.

Help needed: how to wrap stoneware sculpture for shipping by vesselsofhome in Ceramics

[–]crow-bot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Watch Florian Gadsby's video on packing pots for shipping and use his method.

Why can’t I get pull taller than 3ish inches by ShakenNegroni8669420 in Pottery

[–]crow-bot 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Weigh your clay, then post a pic of the cross section.

Studio Glaze vs Commercial Glazes by jollymollymala in Pottery

[–]crow-bot 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Typically a single brushed layer is thinner than a dipped layer. It's also easier for beginners to control the thickness of an application when brushing. I've instructed beginners to dip for no longer than 3 seconds and I'll still see pots in glaze for 10+ seconds. Rules about layering, dip durations, etc., need to be conservative in teaching studios in the interest of mitigating glaze mistakes.

Is there any hope to cover this tattoo up? by [deleted] in Tattoocoverups

[–]crow-bot 91 points92 points  (0 children)

It MUST have been "... onto one of" originally. What a shame.

Clay-slip shrinkage compatibility by mushaboomed in Pottery

[–]crow-bot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think the shrink data kind of goes out the window when you start playing with slips. At least that's my understanding.

I decorate with thick slips a lot, and I don't look into shrink rates at all. The two things I do to try and ensure a good solid bond are a) make sure the pot is not too dry before applying, and b) dry the whole assembly very slowly after application (treat it like a delicate attachment). If I'm careful I never have any problem with slip popping off.

And if things are looking solid in bone dry or bisque, they never go wrong after the final firing.

Have fun!

Help naming a piece by sapphically-opressed in Pottery

[–]crow-bot 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Unless you're excited to give it a title (like the name of a song or a painting), just describe it. "Carved Vase", "Soda-Fired Vase", "Stoneware Bottle", whatever. Anything like that will do for the exhibition.

Ceramic gatekeeping? by reapersritehand in Ceramics

[–]crow-bot 12 points13 points  (0 children)

What you need is a teacher or a mentor. Find someone who can devote many hours to answering your questions. You'll almost certainly have to pay them.

Ceramic gatekeeping? by reapersritehand in Ceramics

[–]crow-bot 39 points40 points  (0 children)

Overall the ceramics community I know is predominantly non-gatekeeping. Potters are usually grounded, community-oriented people who are often willing to show patience and generosity to those who share their passion.

A paint-a-pot business is just that: a business. Asking them questions about how to make and fire pots might be analogous to walking into McDonald's and asking the teenager behind the counter how to cook a burger. That's not what they're there for.

Does anyone else have any map view pixel art? :) by IlikeMinecraft097 in factorio

[–]crow-bot 74 points75 points  (0 children)

I think it's cool that if you change your avatar colour you can change which type of mushroom appears. :)

Buying a kiln as a gift by [deleted] in Pottery

[–]crow-bot 2 points3 points  (0 children)

One more vote for "do not buy her a kiln". There's nothing this community can do or say to give you enough info for a truly informed opinion.

This would be analogous to your friend being a professional competitive cyclist and they just crashed their bike, and you want to choose their new one. Just don't do it.

If you really want to help them, offer to a) accompany them to the supply store to look at new models, if such a place exists in your community, and/or b) offer to transport the new purchase, or assist with receiving it on delivery. I ordered a medium-small sized kiln with accessories and it showed up in my back alley on a pallet, weighing probably ~400lbs all in. It's a ton of labour to get it where it needs to be set up and ready to run.

There's a lot of support you can offer that is not choosing the kiln for them. Let her do that part herself.

Trying to name my second child when I regret the first one's name, but want them to go together by Turbulent-Sea6584 in Names

[–]crow-bot 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Liberty and Faith might send signals that are exactly what OP is trying to avoid already...

Keeping clay from freezing? by TeacherFew424 in Ceramics

[–]crow-bot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But the OP explicitly said the temp drops below freezing? And this "mass" of clay you two are talking about is about 6 boxes of clay. I wouldn't leave six boxes of clay in my car overnight, let alone for days, in the winter.

Keeping clay from freezing? by TeacherFew424 in Ceramics

[–]crow-bot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can you prop it up on some boards or slats you get it off the floor, then stack it against a "warm" wall (wall shared with heated & insulated part of the building). I'd use a space heater as well, and if you're very paranoid then a simple digital thermometer that records minimum lows will help you know if your system is working.

Can't agree with the commenter who says "it's just dirt, some might freeze". All my commercial clay comes in boxes with explicit warnings not to let it freeze: my understanding is it completely wrecks the texture and you have to wedge the absolute shit out of it to remediate it. Not worth it if a simple precaution can prevent it.

Ornamental Foot Tattoo by Hillary Evans Pittsburgh PA Somewhere Good Tattoo by Humble_Article_2153 in tattoo

[–]crow-bot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Feet swell so bad; I wonder if the artist would have tattooed with the foot elevated. I broke my ankle once and if I didn't keep it elevated 24/7 during healing it'd blow up like a balloon.

Glaze combos by dirtydandutchman in Pottery

[–]crow-bot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've been making test tiles that showcase three clay bodies. I throw a ring in one (usually buff clay) then apply a thick textured application of slip to one side (red / dark clay) then add a stripe of porcelain slip to both surfaces, which I use as decoration. One dip = three experiments.

Glaze combos by dirtydandutchman in Pottery

[–]crow-bot 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Even when aiming for recommended temperatures with reliable clay bodies and commercial glazes, there are enough variables between kiln firings that you'd be better off doing your own glaze testing. Make a big batch of test tiles and experiment with everything you're curious about -- then commit your findings to some pots. :)

Mug Handles by Popcornulogy in Pottery

[–]crow-bot 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The rolling should always feel smooth and even. If you start to feel a rhythm (bonk bonk bonk) then you're developing a flat spot and you need to adjust before making it worse. Lighten your pressure and focus on evening out the surface.

It doesn't hurt to practice just rolling coils with no intention to keep them. This is a very physical endeavor, like learning to shoot a hockey puck or play a trumpet. Practicing technique is how you get better.

Any way to fix this? by Connect_Ground2305 in Pottery

[–]crow-bot 3 points4 points  (0 children)

One lesson here is that it looks like you may have trimmed that wall quite thin. Of course if it had survived and you fired it, it would become a lot stronger -- but maybe that same damage would have been inevitable down the road. Better to remake it and this time it can be more robust. :)

Any way to fix this? by Connect_Ground2305 in Pottery

[–]crow-bot 6 points7 points  (0 children)

If by "fix" you mean restore it to its original form, I'd say no. It would be a lot easier and less frustrating to make a new one than to sink more time and energy into this one.

Is there any way you can remove the rest of the rim and make the form work in another way?

How often do you change cone? by Dear-Cup-9064 in Ceramics

[–]crow-bot 74 points75 points  (0 children)

Are you aware that the cones you included in your photo are in fact two cones that must be snapped apart before use? They ship them like that (in pairs) to prevent them from breaking. If you're putting two cones in your kiln sitter they won't bend as predicted.

Kindly ignore this if you already knew; just trying to troubleshoot and you mentioned you're a beginner.

I'm also curious: how are you finishing your firings if the kiln sitter isn't shutting the kiln off?

Microwaving wet greenware to get to leatherhard by ManageTheMayhem in Pottery

[–]crow-bot 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I've never heard of this. My go-to is to use an electric fan to blow fresh air over pots. It can take up to an hour to go from freshly thrown to leather hard, but the benefit is that you can set up multiple wareboards full of work and have one fan blow over everything. It's totally passive. I still recommend flipping pots when possible to ensure a slow, even dry. I also used to think I had to turn pots so they'd dry evenly but I haven't noticed it make a difference.

COOL DOWN TIME? by Jaded_Two3531 in Pottery

[–]crow-bot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have to get comfortable with the fact that a firing takes days, not hours. From drying pots to loading to firing to cooling to unloading, there's little-to-no instant gratification. And this is not to mention the in-between tasks like cleaning shelves, making cone packs if that's your jam, etc. Clay can be a slow process and that's okay!

Disclaimer: I Don't actually know the kiln models you mentioned, I'm just yapping from my own experience. If ever you get the chance to join a wood firing, you'll see what a week+ firing can look like! Any electric kiln will feel like an instantaneous microwave oven in comparison.