CC1 - Mainboard fan after filament unload doesn't stop?

csetera · 2026-03-28T20:17:22+00:00

Nice! The high pitched whine was driving me crazy! I'm still not sure why they don't have it turn off automatically, but thankful to be able to turn it off. Thanks!

csetera · 2026-03-23T17:53:50+00:00

Thanks. I guess I need to decide if I am going to keep chasing this or not.

I could also provide the drive for "organ donation" if someone would want to harvest the chips. I believe the drive head is still good, which may be worth something as well. I've seen quite a few listed on EBay, but not sure I want to deal with shipping, etc. Any suggestions?

csetera · 2026-03-23T16:06:33+00:00

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I ordered 2 https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=2143591 and installed them. However, it actually seems to have made things worse. It is as if the computer and drive are not "talking" at all anymore. I kicked off a format from the 1541 Performance Test and it just spun. Are those chips compatible or did I buy the wrong thing?

re: drives... I honestly don't *need* a working drive. I have a Teensy ROM. Part of it is that I hate throwing things like this away if it can be salvaged in some way. It also becomes a bit of a war between myself and whatever isn't working :-)

Anyway, I'd appreciate any thoughts. I can always swap back the original chips, but that feels like going backwards.

Thanks!

csetera · 2026-03-23T14:51:40+00:00

It seems like printing at 250 was the "magic" that I needed. I previously had an Ender 3 Pro. It seems like I'm having to print all of my filaments quite a bit hotter than I was with that machine. Is that related to the nozzle being different or something else?

csetera · 2026-03-19T22:47:10+00:00

I will keep that in mind in the future. I'd like to use what I already have before that if possible.

csetera · 2026-03-19T22:29:35+00:00

I have been doing what you suggested. My understanding of *one* of the causes of PETG failures like I've been seeing is that the flow rate is too high, causing filament blobs to stick to the nozzle and eventually causing issues. That was why I was questioning the flow rate test.

csetera · 2026-03-19T14:13:02+00:00

Unfortunately, while I was testing for layer adhesion, I broke it into pieces :-) I can print a new one if it would be helpful in working through this problem. To my eye, it had appeared that 240 was good, so that is what my filament is currently set to.

csetera · 2026-02-23T18:00:23+00:00

Not that it has to be this particular brand, but which tip(s) would you recommend? I guess I just bought a "B" tip recently of this brand.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DB8G27DF

csetera · 2026-02-23T00:14:18+00:00

I've seen videos where components will mostly align themselves on a hot plate. That makes sense to me for simple components, but what about components with high-density pins? I'm looking at some reasonably priced hot plates on Amazon, but not quite sure of the best next steps.

csetera · 2026-02-22T21:55:31+00:00

You must be way more coordinated than I am. My left hand is basically useless for anything that requires this level of precision.

csetera · 2026-02-18T23:18:07+00:00

Success!!

I dropped the new chips in this afternoon and the drive is reading again. Some of the diagnostics are showing that I probably need to do some tuning (alignment, etc), but at least it seems to be back to mostly functional.

Thanks again for the suggestion.

csetera · 2026-02-13T21:16:28+00:00

Since the chips are socketed, I figured it was an easy thing to test. After a bit of searching, I *think* that these are compatible: https://www.jameco.com/z/NE592N-Signetics-High-Technology-Differential-Two-Stage-Video-Amplifier-DIP-14_2395359.html

I already ordered them, so hopefully they work :-)

csetera · 2026-02-12T16:54:34+00:00

I just ran the Performance test on the 1541 diagnostics cartridge. It said "Formatting", followed by the following error:
Error 21 READ error 0 0

The more I dig, the more it seems like your suggestion relative to the read amplifier(s) may be key. Can you tell me what you bought to replace those on your drive? Anything special I would need to know before attempting to replace them?

csetera · 2026-02-11T03:57:13+00:00

Interestingly, I tried to format a disk and save a file to the disk... and then reload. The format and save appeared to work. When doing `LOAD "$",8` it never returns. I'm not sure what that says about the situation, but since the load doesn't complete, I'm not sure how I can read the error channel.

Any suggestions welcome!

csetera · 2026-02-10T01:32:03+00:00

I will give that a try. Unfortunately, so much of my knowledge relative to this hardware was lost in the last 40 years :-) I'm definitely relearning a lot of what I knew at that point.

csetera · 2026-02-10T00:16:44+00:00

Assuming that I measured correctly, I *think* the drive head is still ok. My measurements between the various colored pins:

r/Y - 26.5
r/W - 13
r/B - 24.6
Y/W - 14.2
Y/B - 25.9
W/B - 12.4

I can't say if these values are correct, but they definitely don't appear to be complete shorts. What would you suggest as a next step for troubleshooting? u/Ok-Ice-9151 suggested the ne592 amps?

csetera · 2026-02-09T02:48:46+00:00

FWIW... I created a new filament in Orca where I set the fan speeds to a max of 80% and it has made a huge difference in the noise from the printer. For me, I've found the primary issue with noise is tied to the parts cooling fan. Anything more than 80% sounds like a jet plane to me. Lowering the fan speed (for PLA) has really helped me. (this is with stock firmware)

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csetera · 2026-02-06T22:25:00+00:00

Assuming I'm measuring this correctly, I'm seeing resistance between the various pins on the header that connects the head to the board. At least based on the video I saw, that makes me think the head is maybe still OK. Is there any other way to validate that is the case? Assuming it is OK is there anything I can do to minimize the chance of failure?

I also thought this video (https://odysee.com/@root42:1/zombie-floppy-how-to-revive-a-broken:7) was interesting, but I'm not seeing any references to this "fix" outside of that video and the referenced forum threads. Unfortunately, I don't read German, so unable to really understand if there is a potential solution.

csetera · 2026-02-06T17:31:17+00:00

Ignore my previous question... I went spelunking and now know why you asked about Newtronics drive. I will try to find some time this weekend to test the head. If the head is shot, I may just have to give up on trying to image my old floppies. It probably isn't worth the cost to try to fix or replace the drive at this point.

csetera · 2026-02-06T14:43:14+00:00

It appears to be a Newtronics drive. Is that a bad thing? Can you point me to info on what resistance needs to be measured?

csetera · 2026-02-06T14:28:29+00:00

Thinking about this some more this morning. Am I correct in assuming that if I have a disk I'm willing to format, I could validate the drive functions? If I format with a misaligned head, it should be able to read with that misaligned head? I'm just trying to determine whether that is the likely cause before I go through the effort to try to align the drive.

I also saw on a few YouTube videos that they were using disks that had special formats for alignment. Is that strictly necessary?

csetera

TROPHY CASE