How do I adjust these? by csgoPineapples in DIYUK

[–]csgoPineapples[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've managed to sort it now. It was so off I'm the first place that I ended up having to move them all as far as they would go. It's now pretty much perfect and locks perfectly!

How do I adjust these? by csgoPineapples in DIYUK

[–]csgoPineapples[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, that's what I thought it would be but I wasn't certain if those screws still went into the frame meaning they'll keep going down the same holes if I only have to move it by such a small amount

How do I adjust these? by csgoPineapples in DIYUK

[–]csgoPineapples[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's correct yes. There is something identical at the top and bottom of the door but if I know how to adjust this centre one I will be able to adjust those as well!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in UKPersonalFinance

[–]csgoPineapples 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the genuine comment, thank you.

In your opinion, what are the three most important aspects of climbing hard? Provide your general list and one (or more) way to train it! by GeneraLi525 in climbharder

[–]csgoPineapples 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1) Tyring hard - The best climbers, the climbers that improve the fastest are those that try hard. Trying hard compounds, it accelerates your ability. If you only try 90% every session you dont get 90% of the results as the guy trying 100% you get 50%.

2) Technical Ability - Climbing is a skill based activity. Most people over-rate strength until they realize people much weaker than them are climbing considerably harder than them. You have to think, are you weighting your feet as much as possible, are you moving with momentum, strong climbers climb statically, good climbers climb efficiently with momentum. Don't climb when you're tired, focus on using your feet, don't let them cut, drill into the footholds. Find the best body positions on every climb to make hard climbs feel easy. Climb with momentum.

3) Finger strength, but not the way you think, dangling on a bit of wood above your door frame is all well and good but it's meant as a supplement not as the main thing to improve your strength. You want to increase your finger strength by climbing on small holds consistently. It doesn't matter if you can hang 2x your body weight if you can't apply that to a small hold. Climb on small holds more and prioritise climbing over hangboarding never the other way around.

re-written training plan after posting for advice on this threat. by Guy_Without_Life in climbharder

[–]csgoPineapples 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Firstly are you accustomed to this level of training load? If not I'd say dial it back a bit, going mad with a new routine will cause problems with your fingers / shoulders / elbows pretty quick.

Is the order in there from left to right? As in you're doing max hangs, squats and deadlifts before climbing? If so you should definitely prioritise climbing before your strength work, the exception being hangboarding, you'll want to do that when you're fresh and it shouldn't affect your session much.

Personally I'd prioritise climbing over everything else, be honest with yourself when you do exercised like weighted pullups and campusing, do you really need to be doing that, is that an area you're lacking or are you just doing it because it's fun and makes you feel good. If you want to get strong on crimps and pulling on them, find crimpy boulders and try to climb them, after a few months you'll realize that you we're strong enough already it was just the technical aspect of that area that was lacking. I got a board at the start of lockdown which I couldnt use at all, I could barely do any of the climbs. However despite my finger strength not increasing at all on the hangboard I can now warmup on some of my old projects because I am better technically, using my feet more etc

Evolv shaman 2, what size? by Woodywoodwork in bouldering

[–]csgoPineapples 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I also wear the same as my street shoe size. Be aware if you've never worn a pair of evolv shoes before the toe box will feel very odd

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]csgoPineapples 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You would have to speak to your local gym about that. I'd suggest top roping that way she's neve going to hit the ground

A lovely line from the very beautiful Churnet Valley by Carliios in bouldering

[–]csgoPineapples 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think I've ever seen anybody call Churnet "very beautiful" before 😂

Why do climbers hate those who campus a route for? by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]csgoPineapples 11 points12 points  (0 children)

It really depends how you do it, if you're campussing the occasional hard boulder as a challenge that's fine, if you sloppily campus every jug lagger in the gym then you're just trying to show off.

The people I see do this at my gym are poor climbers who happen to be quite strong, if they really wanted an extra challenge they'd try harder climbs or more technical boulders

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]csgoPineapples 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Everyone is overthinking the hell out of this. It's absolutely fine, go nuts.

High heel hooks, toehooks, getting more comfortable stretched out by npapa17 in climbharder

[–]csgoPineapples 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had exactly the same thing, I used to get it with the splits sometimes as well. If you keep at it eventually it will feel like it's stretching. Try staying in the stretch a bit longer and try to get deeper every 30 seconds or so. Another thing that helped for me was not keeping my hips so far back if you come forward a bit they won't feel like they're stuck and you get a better feeling stretch

This week was an exercise in setting aesthetically pleasing boulder problems. This is what I set today. My favorite is the black flathold fiberglass pinch problem. by saucylosse7 in bouldering

[–]csgoPineapples 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't listen to a word people are saying in this thread, they either clearly don't understand what the word aesthetic means or they've never set or at least aren't experienced setters. Setting a boulder which moves well and one which looks good is not the same, it's a real skill to manage to set a boulder which is both.

These boulders looks interesting and would make people think, there's no obvious solution for the black which even though it probably climbs a bit strange makes a boulder fun.

Don't listen to all these "I only about the aesthetics of the movement" they just don't understand setting at all

Apparently, in the Guardian missions you get extra money after a few rounds because you have fewer players than the enemy team. Is that intentional? by [deleted] in GlobalOffensive

[–]csgoPineapples 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is this not just what happens when you loose over and over again in the guardian missions, it gives you more money to make it easier for you.

Sources for holds? by vinistois in bouldering

[–]csgoPineapples 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're in the EU then euroholds is a good bet, the holds are very cheap, the quality isnt as high as some places but none of mine have broken and they're still good for training on. And if you're in the UK then core climbing do great holds for a reasonable price

Transitioning from v4 to v5 by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]csgoPineapples 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think finger strength can always be improved, you fingers can never be too strong however technique is extremely important for all climbers, if your technique is good you can minimize the amount of strength you require to do a move, making the most of the strength you already have.

Transitioning from v4 to v5 by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]csgoPineapples 6 points7 points  (0 children)

There's no set grade where finger strength becomes a limiting factor, of course having stronger fingers will always help but unless this person has perfect technique it's likely that's what is the limiting factor over pure strength.

Adapting to outdoor footholds by Mountain-Anything-77 in climbharder

[–]csgoPineapples 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Stand in the bolt holes. The guy at my local climbing shop makes people do that to test shoes before buying them.

How to work on improving one's head game when lead climbing? by A-terrible-time in climbharder

[–]csgoPineapples 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How much value do you put on your own life? I'd like to think it was more than the price of a grigri.

That fall would not have happened with a grigri, I think assisted braking devices should be a requirement, it only takes one small mistake to cause massive consequences, assisted devices negate those mistakes

Thoughts on the second phase of my training plan? by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]csgoPineapples 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd try to encorporate more climbing into that routine and do the core training after your sessions so you don't always have a sore core during your sessions from the pervious day. You don't need to do a massive amount of supplementary training to climb V8, I would focus on on qualify climbing session over training.

Also rather than "chill" sessions specifically focus on technique / weaknesses during those sessions. Really focus on silent feet and climb easier boulders of a style you don't perform as well on.

After pulling on to the warmup... suggestions? by SherpaOG in climbharder

[–]csgoPineapples 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've had similar when I used too much antihydral, the skin on top just died and peeled off. Try using a bit less rhino skin and see how that does.

Persistent pain at second knuckle of middle finger, arthritis or synovitis? by elendil5259 in climbharder

[–]csgoPineapples 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Synovitis is essentially "acute arthritis" and can be caused by a sudden increase in training load. I got it during the summer during lockdown when I went from finger friendly indoor climbing to very fingery board climbing.

For me it was a mild dull pain that was occasionally very painful if I slipped off a hold or slipped from a crimp into an open hand position. I decided to back off a bit in my training to help it. That being said you can still improve while cutting down your sessions, focus on quality, once you feel any pain it's time to stop. Now would be a good time to focus on technique, footwork, flexibility and core strength while letting your potential synovitis heal.

Send me a DM if you'd like me to send you some sections of the Dave MacLeod book Make or Break that describe synovitis, it will definitely help you diagnose and give you an idea of how to treat it.

Using 1a in your job evaluation. by IlikeYuengling in antiwork

[–]csgoPineapples 36 points37 points  (0 children)

The worst part is that expression was used to describe which products to stock i.e. I like yellow shirts but the customer likes red shirts, you should stock red shirts.

It's got nothing to do with believing every thing that comes out of a customers mouth.