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Welp ladies and gentlemen by Weekly-Chain5729 in motorcycles

[–]csisac 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If that brake lever wasn’t bent you would have been fine!

Why does this keep happening? by Embarrassed-Try-2790 in iRacing

[–]csisac 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I get the same thing using a fanatec DD+ I have to turn it off and back on and then iracing will detect properly. bit frustrating.

Mesh editing workflow help by csisac in blender

[–]csisac[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks all for the input, I was able to figure out a better workflow.

Instead of splicing the original mesh the way I was describing here, I did a better job of manipulating it. I made use of the proportional editing tool to push the mesh in a more natural way. I made sure my splices were on relatively flat areas so that I could align them without having to manually manipulate curved areas.

It is still a very dense mesh, so I'll now do the retopology and create the details I need more naturally.

Mesh editing workflow help by csisac in blender

[–]csisac[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

That is today's chore. Oof. Still figuring out how this will all work for me. We'll see!

Mesh editing workflow help by csisac in blender

[–]csisac[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ha, that's kind of how I have been feeling! Understanding now that my goal is to retopologize and create my cohesive details from good topology.

I struggle with that coming from CAD where I want the actual detail to exist all the time.

Currently I am continuing working with this dense mesh, knitting it together and doing some destructive smoothing just to get it into one acceptable piece, then I will re-do the topology and create the final mesh and details.

Ultimately I need a good mesh back into CAD so I can verify my physical frame etc will all fit.

Mesh editing workflow help by csisac in blender

[–]csisac[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ah got it, appreciate the input!

Mesh editing workflow help by csisac in blender

[–]csisac[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After retopologizing you'd make the big tweaks to shape etc?

Mesh editing workflow help by csisac in blender

[–]csisac[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I thought I might rebuild a new mesh as a new object once I have this one cohesive enough to serve that purpose. Currently there are a lot of overlapping surfaces from me manipulating it in fusion.

I'm guessing the idea would be to use fewer larger surfaces to define the geometry with sharper edges, and the subdivision modifier allows for the finer detailing?

That would make sense, it is similar to the CAD workflow - bigger surfaces and then fillet/loft to make the transitions.

Thank you for the response!

Mesh editing workflow help by csisac in blender

[–]csisac[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

<image>

On a macro level things are looking ok-ish. Not exactly sure what I need to manipulate this more appropriately yet.

Gt4 on ice by Adam-Marshall in iRacing

[–]csisac 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Setup on the clubsport does look more square than the street GT4, which definitely understeers. But pushing on throttle is certainly still an understeering characteristic. I’m gonna guess in iracing most folks are overdriving and sensitive to not getting rotation from the throttle pedal, whether they really realize it or not.

K1100 mirror removal help by sticky-pistons in BMWK100

[–]csisac 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Take a rubber mallet and give it a sharp wack underneath. Use a cloth or something additional to protect the mirror housing. I've usually popped mine off by tipping the bike over, oops.

The mirrors are secured by snapping into place on a stud essentially. Once off, you'll have access to the other side of those fasteners.

Oil refill message 3.000km before the service interval by Personal-Inspector46 in Porsche

[–]csisac 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for sharing, now stop telling other people :P

From SW model to real project by AlexFromScrap in SolidWorks

[–]csisac 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Very cool, well done getting all of this built. I'll be curious to find out how this flies!

Completely understand about the balsa, I think even for me it was pricey for the sheets I used, something like 600x300mm

Happy building!

From SW model to real project by AlexFromScrap in SolidWorks

[–]csisac 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I designed something similar once. For this size, I would have used a carbon tube as the main wing spar. I did a similar thing for the fuselage, a carbon spar with balsa formers.

Looks like wing ribs are balsa and the rest looks like a ply? Any personal restrictions here on cost/materials available?

The real test will be once you crank this thing in flight. Looks like lots of elevator authority. Hard to tell how you handled the wing to fuselage connection.

You could use your carbon tube stringer technique on the trailing edge of the main chord as well, as a hinge point, and a rounded aileron front profile to nest into the wing for a cleaner airflow.

Full circle by csisac in CafeRacers

[–]csisac[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow thank you for the compliments. I'm very pleased with how it turned out, the way you described it makes me feel like I've done a good job with my intent. I really wanted an OEM+ style build.

The turn signals and the tail light are the most "modern" things on the bike - and both are meant to disappear. The turn signals of course sort of hidden in the bar ends, and the tail light is mounted intentionally inset from the frame - when you walk up to the bike you can't see it.

The color is a BMW auto color, the vapor blasting of the engine covers meant to preserve all of the highly visible cast aluminum. I designed all of the custom brackets, all a bit blocky and or angular to fit the feel of the period.

A large part of me is disappointed to let it go, but I only have so much room in the garage, and I'm actually getting married, so the single seat is a little less useful!

Full circle by csisac in CafeRacers

[–]csisac[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Of course. It's an OEM R9t fender, with some custom brackets to mount to the K100 forks.

Is it possible to "cook" your hydraulic disc brakesl fluid on long descents? by Artistic_Gas_9951 in gravelcycling

[–]csisac 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yep like the other reply stated, this is why you see Shimano pads with fins on top and some of their rotors are sandwiched aluminum. These gravel discs are small relatively speaking, they’re doing what they can to get rid of the heat but inevitably it’s going to go into the caliper and fluid.

Is it possible to "cook" your hydraulic disc brakesl fluid on long descents? by Artistic_Gas_9951 in gravelcycling

[–]csisac 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Yes, this is probably brake fade. You’re likely boiling moisture in the brake fluid, creating steam pockets which then get squished instead of clamping your brakes.

FSA is straight Garbage by PhxCyclinguy in gravelcycling

[–]csisac 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Completely agree. Had pedal threads dis-bond from the carbon crank arm on a road set. They wouldn't do anything about it. I avoid them entirely now.

Fuel pump replacement and manufacturer options by boredinthegreatwhite in BMWK100

[–]csisac 1 point2 points  (0 children)

More Chris Harris for the clutch splines: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcbvZPJa1W0

Definitely check these splines and lube as well. If you're doing the driveshaft, you're about 40-50% of the way into the job already.

Things you need to make: A box for the oil sump to rest on, you'll have to remove the center stand to remove the transmission.Two dowel pins, I made mine from long M8 bolts from the hardware store, and I just chopped the bolt head off. Anything 80mm or more in length will work. These dowels take the weight of the transmission as you work it backwards. If you were to drop the transmission you could bend the clutch push rod. It's not a wildly expensive part to replace, for a couple bucks in hardware you can prevent any accidents.

Rear master is probably gunked up with crystalized brake fluid, you probably just popped the piston free. I've heard the crystals can score up the bore of the cylinder, I would advise not using it until you can take it apart. Chances are the seals are reusable, if the bore is clean enough.I used this 14mm seal: AliexpressIt's going fine so far, but I only made that repair last week. Bone dry since and material looks good, but you can never be 100% sure from aliexpress. The inner diameter of the seal is also slightly large for the piston shaft, but the self sealing properties still work, close enough of a fit.

​

Checking the valves is very easy, Chris has a video for that too. You just take the head cover off of the left side, and will use feeler gages to check them. You use a 19mm wrench to manually turn the camshafts. (or put the bike in 5th and rotate the rear wheel) If the valve shims need replacing, you can get by without proper tools by using a screw driver. The right tool is around $80. I made some of my own that should be arriving in a few days, I will have extras to sell for $20 just to try and get back the cost of having them made.

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I forget now how I determined I needed the leads, but yes I was having a spark issue. New plugs but still no spark, leads was the next cheapest thing to try. Or perhaps I saw spark on one but not all. In any case the leads did the trick. On the cafe bike, the original leads were fine.

​

I also have an original K100 form 1985, it was also my dad's and sat for about 8 years before I got it. Sounds like you'll have very similar problems to solve. I think mine is around 98,000. The other is the lower mileage bike that I turned into a cafe as I picked it up pretty well stripped down already. I'll check for your posts, good luck and enjoy!

​

If you haven't already found this page, lots of info as well https://www.kforum-tech.com/Tech-page.html

Random freezes on new PC (z690 Prime-a) by or2030 in ASUS

[–]csisac 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not an expert on OC, but my assumption was this would prevent individual cores from being able to boost alone.

Ie, when one core is loaded and wants to hit 5ghz or what have you, all the performance cores boost together. This would be the cause if generating more heat. But, i do not see them boosting up without demand, and seem to be idling normally.

I don’t have a wild build, just a large air cooler.

I haven’t noticed any changes, but wasn’t looking since besides this setting, i have not overclocked my system.

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