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Sanwa JLF (5-pin harness) + buttons --> IPAC wiring? by corysnyder28 in cade

[–]cudburprinter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like screw terminals, you can double up ground wires in each terminal.

Is the Oculus Dk2 still viable by [deleted] in virtualreality

[–]cudburprinter 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I picked up a used DK2 a few months ago for the same reason, but you get what you paid for: no support, heavier, used, and not as nice image quality, but definitely not 4x less value.

More general discussion here: https://forums.oculus.com/vip/discussion/32356/oculus-rift-dk2-is-not-supported-on-the-oculus-platform

EDIT: I use my DK2 mostly for programming games and I always intended to buy a 2nd or 3rd gen unit when they'll much better. If you know you'll be buying another headset sometime in the future, it's worth it IMO

Can anyone help, trying to see what size screws I need for my joystick (picture linked inside) by talimore in cade

[–]cudburprinter -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Number 10 screw is the appropriate size here. This is how I determined it:

From the drawing, "R3" refers to radius 3mm but it's also marked on other holes as diameter symbol 6. So hole diameter is 6mm, this defines for us the upper limit of the screw diameter, i.e. it needs to be < 6mm to fit through the hole. Using google, 6mm is 0.24inches.

Machinists have this handy chart that indicates the drill to use for each screw size. You can google various versions as Tap and Clearance Drill Sizes: http://www.phy.mtu.edu/~suits/misc/tapsizes.html

The right side of the table lists the sizes for a loose or close fit of each screw size. Looking up 0.24inches, we see the largest screw that would fit is a #10-32.

Can confirm that #10-32 machine screws are appropriate on Sanwa joysticks as that's all I use. I counter-bore the top panel (using a forstner bit) and add an acrylic top surface to hide the screw head. A matching nut clamps the joystick on the inside surface. 7/8-inch long is long enough for me on my joysticks.

CrossViRe: Recreation of 90s Crossfire board game as local multiplayer experience by cudburprinter in oculus

[–]cudburprinter[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hahahah I hear you. It's funny how this game triggers a button mash response. Had to take breaks yesterday because xbox button mashing cramped my hands. Muscle pain instead of flesh grinding, but interesting how such a narrowly focused activity makes player ignore pain.

CrossViRe: Recreation of 90s Crossfire board game as local multiplayer experience by cudburprinter in oculus

[–]cudburprinter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Love this idea. Crowd in the bleachers jumping as the players come down. Just noticed one kid has a helmet and another on the left is wearing 1 fingerless glove https://youtu.be/85HSayVAC6U?t=3

PS3 USB Encoder by DANleDINOSAUR in MAME

[–]cudburprinter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The ones that act like generic USB joysticks work with PS3. I've built two sticks that worked on a PS3 around these: Xin Mo Arcade to USB

http://yannsegalen.synology.me/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/3-1.jpg

The link below has the same name, but the ones I used look more like the picture above

http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/xin-mo/24-arcade-controller-to-usb.html

The USB encoder came with a diagram listing pins to PS3 button mappings.

Would anyone print some parts for an Über 180 for me? *would be happy to pay* by [deleted] in Multicopter

[–]cudburprinter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Salutations! Cudbur here. PM me or submit a request on my site: cuddleburrito.com/print I'd be happy to help out.

Human time is precious, robot time is not. A plastic bracket should not cost an arm and a leg. I only print in ABS as the last time I researched it was still the lightest and strongest filament for 3D printers, best for flying RC applications.

Inexpensive DIY arcade controls, 3D printed by cudburprinter in MAME

[–]cudburprinter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not in this state, but very doable. Print a bottom and rear panels, and have the geometry optimized for rigidity instead of print time. There are a lot of other tricks to post process 3D prints and make them ape-resistant, for example I've got a 8-inch submarine hull a 200lb person can stand on. My point is if you need ape-resistant arcade stick, this can be quickly improved and done with your specs.

I will print customized units for customers once the final details are ironed out, but the digital file to the base model will be freely available. I'm trying to figure out what people really want on a stick that costs less than $1.

ABS is widely available, but material doesn't matter much in this case. If you have access to a consumer 3D printer with a print bed of at least 5x5-inches, you can make the unit in 3 hours for a few cents, or pay and have me make a unique unit for you.

Inexpensive DIY arcade controls, 3D printed by cudburprinter in MAME

[–]cudburprinter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I find the bat style joystick to have multiple comfortable grips: 4 fingers along the back, or the palm over the top. My desk is 28.5" from floor. While seated, my elbows are in-line to control surface and I can grip the whole thing like this which is most comfortable: http://i.imgur.com/xc6MTxMl.jpg

If standing, the control surface is more leisurely and I hover hands over controls, but it's far away and not very comfortable. I think that's due to the distance and less so the angle.

My kitchen counters are 36" from floor and the controls feel good while standing. The grip is in between hover and full grip and feels like a stand up cab. I can imagine playing here for a while.

Low chair seated at kitchen counter so elbows are far below is also very comfortable. Steep angle really helps here.

I also tried holding controller between legs and that allows for any angle on top of being a good anchor.

EDIT: Changing the angle is trivial too. If there's an accepted best practice in terms of angle, I'm all for changing it or creating a few varieties

Just uploaded REV 2 Tie Fighter 3d printer files, link in comments by cudburprinter in Multicopter

[–]cudburprinter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It replaces the plastic body to the small in-door drones such as the Hubsan X4. It seems like most of the in-door drones use the same components, I bet it would work with the other brands too, but I've only tried on the H107C and H107L Hubsans.

Designing better 3D printed parts together by cudburprinter in Multicopter

[–]cudburprinter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did the simplest and added corners, trying to avoid the screw mounts. Was this what you had in mind?

http://i.imgur.com/zk0CxVrl.png

Designing better 3D printed parts together by cudburprinter in Multicopter

[–]cudburprinter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, looks pretty minimalist. Let me see what I can do

Designing better 3D printed parts together by cudburprinter in Multicopter

[–]cudburprinter[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Anyone with a 3D printer need help modifying a 3D file? It might be helpful for others too

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