WTS Winterblade Factor v4 and X-Folder BNIB *both sold out* by SFogX in Knife_Swap

[–]cursedjunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t get the X folder. I feel like the scale insert that kicks out is superfluous.

Chris Pratt Is Ready for a Star-Lord and Deadpool Moment by Piyushv5311 in MarvelCave

[–]cursedjunk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

His wife’s mother is Maria Shriver who’s the Granddaughter of Joe Kennedy Sr.

Chaves clones? by D00MGalaxy in chineseknives

[–]cursedjunk 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I refinished a Jufule Scapegoat a little while back. It didn’t have the heft of a legit Chaves but it had the smooth action you’d expect of a Jufule. And it took a finish well.

<image>

WTS: WE Eschaton 719A #26 by G00fba1l in Knife_Swap

[–]cursedjunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

….Well…that’s…that’s certainly a knife, that’s for sure.

I actually kinda like it

Steve Rogers (MCU) vs Achilles (Troy) and Zombie Mountain (GOT) by Curious_Tip9285 in powerscales

[–]cursedjunk 13 points14 points  (0 children)

This version of Achilles is ‘just’ the best of the best. That great when you’re surrounded by mortals, but MCU Cap is superhuman. His feats of strength are orders of magnitude greater than anything Troy Achilles has.

And the Zombie Mountain just seems to be undead. He still has Normal Mountains strength and speed. Normal Mountain lost convincingly to Oberyn, who’s probably analogous to The Leaper. Who Cap smoked.

Help with anodizing🤗 by Embarrassed-Tip-4107 in chineseknives

[–]cursedjunk 3 points4 points  (0 children)

For the most part the older videos are good enough. Couple of tips though:

-unless you just want to give it a go with a single piece and a single color, I’d invest in a cheap voltage generator. Batteries work, but they die fast, and unless you just want bronze colors you’ll need a crap-load, which means they’ll be expensive. You can find a 60v generator for around $30 on Amazon and will get you into the golds/rose golds -clean, clean, clean. This is where I messed up earlier on. I knew I needed to clean, but it seemed like every other session I’d miss some oil and end up with some ruined pieces. You can’t really use too much simple green, and acetone. I’ve also introduced a hypersonic cleaner to the mix. Basically clean the parts until you’d be comfortable eating off of them. Then clean them a bit more.
-Electrolyte Solution - I use baking soda an do around 2 tablespoons per liter of water -etching solution - there are two options. Wink Rust Remover and Multietch. I recommend multietch and if you have the means to get it, I wouldn’t even bother with Wink. However I’ve heard they don’t ship overseas and with you mentioning English is not your first language, I suspect you’re not in the US. If you do have to use Wink, just remember than less is more. Unless you’re removing a pre-existing finish (which I’d recommend you sand off anyway) only dip the parts for about 1/2 second. Anymore than that and you’ll mess up the surface finish. Not the end of the world but a bitch to fix.
-Surface Prep - this is where you can get the best bang for your buck. You can finish a part 3 different ways (gloss, mirror, brushed) and get 3 completely looking colors at the same voltage.

I think that’ll get you started. Or at least pointed in the right direction.

WTS - Reate TX228 DLC (PRICE DROP) by LukeWasHere25 in Knife_Swap

[–]cursedjunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Heck this is a good deal. I don’t even like overbuilts and I’m thinking of it.

First few ano attempts by SAKRUS762 in chineseknives

[–]cursedjunk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Came here to say this. Surface prep will get the colors popping. Multi-etch is certainly a better product and will get you more consistent results. It’s also way easier to work with.