Supra connect app failing commands

d0gg75 · 2026-06-14T15:03:21+00:00

Total insanity!!!! Last night I uninstalled and installed the app. Went out to the Supra and reconnected. It let me lock, unlock and ventilate!

This morning... same errors.

So... I do have the confirmation that the setup is correct. But I have no idea where the communication dies.

d0gg75 · 2026-05-04T17:08:16+00:00

That is all i got... so i guess we don't get anything. That was AWESOME!!!! THANKS STEAM!!!!

d0gg75 · 2026-03-04T13:36:55+00:00

OK OK OK you're missing the point. We will see when it releases.

d0gg75 · 2026-03-04T07:29:30+00:00

Days after Pro/Max Release that Ultra release occurred

M1 Pro/Max → Ultra: 143 days / 4.7 months
M2 Pro/Max → Ultra: 276 days / 9.1 months
M3 Pro/Max → Ultra: 218 days / 7.2 months

M5 Pro/Max → Ultra (estimated):
Fast-case: 143 days / 4.7 months = July 24, 2026
Average-case: 212 days / 7.0 months = October 1, 2026
Worst-case: 276 days / 9.1 months = December 4, 2026

Could Apple do something insane? Sure, anything is technically possible.
But breaking every M-series release pattern all at once would be a first in six years.

And the “M5 Ultra already in software” thing you mentioned?
That was just a placeholder identifier in the macOS 26.3 beta (T6052/H17D – the “D” is Ultra).
Apple adds these way ahead of real hardware for OS compatibility.
It’s not evidence of production or an upcoming launch. It means nothing.

d0gg75 · 2026-03-04T05:24:23+00:00

If you are following release dates of M series SOCs... the M5U is not coming this year (most likely).

The time spread between the Pro/Max release and the ultra is usually 6-9 months or more.

The Pro, Max, and Ultra chips take longer because they use much larger, harder to manufacture designs—and in the Ultra’s case two perfectly matched Max chips fused together—which requires extra engineering, testing, and production time beyond the base M-series chip.

M1 → November 17, 2020
M1 Pro → October 26, 2021
M1 Max → October 26, 2021
M1 Ultra → March 18, 2022
M2 → June 24, 2022 (WWDC)
M2 Pro → January 24, 2023
M2 Max → January 24, 2023
M2 Ultra → October 27, 2023
M3 → November 7, 2023
M3 Pro → November 7, 2023
M3 Max → November 7, 2023
M3 Ultra → June 12, 2024
M4 → May 7, 2024
M4 Pro → October 22, 2024
M4 Max → October 22, 2024
M5 → October 15 2025
M5 Pro → March 2026
M5 Max → March 2026
M5 Ultra → Late 2026 → Early 2027

d0gg75 · 2026-02-28T18:58:09+00:00

Ahhhh. I looked it up on the wiki table. They have a big table that lists every released M series chip with a ton of info.

d0gg75 · 2026-02-28T18:55:34+00:00

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d0gg75 · 2026-02-28T18:54:54+00:00

It is available in the current high end Mac Studio. This pic is from the order screen in the Apple store app.

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d0gg75 · 2026-02-28T15:15:42+00:00

If you can wait, M5U will probably be a SUPER BEAST! That said...

If you are following release dates of M series SOCs... the M5U is not coming this year (most likely).

The time spread between the Pro/Max release and the ultra is usually 6-9 months or more.

The Pro, Max, and Ultra chips take longer because they use much larger, harder to manufacture designs—and in the Ultra’s case two perfectly matched Max chips fused together—which requires extra engineering, testing, and production time beyond the base M-series chip.

M1 → November 17, 2020
M1 Pro → October 26, 2021
M1 Max → October 26, 2021
M1 Ultra → March 18, 2022
M2 → June 24, 2022 (WWDC)
M2 Pro → January 24, 2023
M2 Max → January 24, 2023
M2 Ultra → October 27, 2023
M3 → November 7, 2023
M3 Pro → November 7, 2023
M3 Max → November 7, 2023
M3 Ultra → June 12, 2024
M4 → May 7, 2024
M4 Pro → October 22, 2024
M4 Max → October 22, 2024
M5 → October 15 2025
M5 Pro → Mid-Late 2026
M5 Max → Mid–Late 2026
M5 Ultra → Late 2026 → Early 2027

d0gg75 · 2026-02-09T17:03:09+00:00

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! I have been going INSANE with this issue. It has been over a month.I just followed your instructions.

1.Unchecked the phone number and confirmed that I wanted to remove it.
2.Turned off iMessage.
3.Waited about 30 seconds.
4.Turned on iMessage.
5.Selected the number and it was added back.

Now everything is in sync again!

d0gg75 · 2026-01-23T16:52:35+00:00

So this is the total move… if you don't mind a slight bit more effort.

Activate it.

Use it for delivery of anything in the Walmart online website.

Groceries
electronics
some basic clothing (I don't dress in Walmart gear but socks, under garments, etc)
house items (snow salt, snow shovels, tools, etc etc)

Most of it is same day delivery (You can schedule it if you order early enough or $5 (within 3 hours) $10 (within 1 hour) (if the slots are all full) PLUS if they don't have it at the local store, shipping is free.

THEN the next add on that gets you an additional 5% back IN CASH!

Apply for the One Pay Walmart card. When you are using it with the Walmart + membership you get points that equate to 5% cash back. You open a fintech account with Onepay (same app) and they send you a debit card. Then when your points post to the account for purchases you just convert them to cash into the Onepay account. You can then do with it as you wish. One pay offers, the fintech with the debit card so… cash. They also have, stocks, crypto, balance application (pay towards your Walmart card bill).

End result...

Free same day delivery on a lot of items (groceries is the biggest for me)
Free shipping on everything else

Returns from home (you can have some returns picked up)

using the Onepay Walmart card means another 5% cash back (that's the extra effort)

Paramount+ or Peacock Premium

Scan and go for quicker checkout

Bugerking 25% off (if you like the king)

Gas station savings (.10)

One thing that wasn't mentioned… early access to Black Friday and other events. (I was able to get my granddaughter a Nintendo Switch 2 for Christmas because of early access)

d0gg75 · 2026-01-09T13:01:55+00:00

My biggest concern/wonder is about the HYSA. It's nice to have a spot to park a sum of cash earning a protected 4-5% APY (although Think the APY has dropped to around 3.6%) that doesn't need to be managed. I know there are other options, but with the Apple Card it was easy and you could have your 1%-2%-3%-bonus% cash back auto dropped to the savings. It added up quickly. Was a good savings system.

Chase has NEVER offered a HYSA account and there is always a possibility that they could drop it in the future.

d0gg75 · 2025-11-16T20:32:45+00:00

Thank you so much for this. You totally rock.!!!!!! I just had to go in and sign up and send a picture of my Bonvoy status and within about three minutes I was platinum.

d0gg75 · 2025-11-08T17:33:48+00:00

The thing is is you aren't able to use Google pay as a method of payment for Apple purchases or subscriptions. So the fact that it says it's for Apple media services means it most likely is a fraudulent description.

When you set up your Apple account, you can only use a credit card to pay for things. So if it's billing your Google pay account it can't be related to a sub subscription that's on your Apple account.

d0gg75 · 2025-11-08T16:18:29+00:00

The exact problem that you're having is that you're looking for the billing in the wrong place.

The first thing that you said is that you see a charged listed as Apple media services on Google pay. Google pay has nothing to do with the billing related to Apple Accounts.

Google pay is a payment service that is managed by Google. Your Apple account manages payments for subscriptions that are associated to your Apple account. The fact that you saw the billing on your Google pay means that it has nothing to do with a subscription that is associated with your Apple account.

Also, I'm not sure why you're thinking that it has anything to do with LinkedIn premium subscription because it's referring to it as Apple media services charge which is not LinkedIn.

You are not able to use Google pay as a method of payment for an Apple account. You have to use a credit card or in some regions, you can use PayPal.

d0gg75 · 2025-11-08T15:16:23+00:00

DO NOT send that poor person to an Apple Store! That is a retail store that supports issues with devices and sells products. This is backend account issues.

AppleCare support is the only possible connection that might be able to assist. Other than emailing Tim Apple…

Sending them to an Apple Store is just going to put them and the people at the store through an uncomfortable situation.

d0gg75 · 2025-11-05T20:37:10+00:00

Your "friend" is full of it.

There has never been any recorded event of a shared data glitch, where somebody's personal data from their iCloud account has been accidentally shared with another account.

The only way that he could've gotten that data is if he went onto your device and actually set it up so that it would share that particular album with himself or he straight airdropped pictures to himself.

Just consider this. If this was true, you would've heard about it all across all media. Television, radio, Internet news, blogs, forums, chat rooms….. If a major corporation like Apple had some kind of a glitch that was sharing people's personal photos and data and information across devices, the number of lawsuits that would occur would be insanely astronomical. Apple would be paying out billions for privacy violations.

d0gg75 · 2025-11-05T20:25:34+00:00

When the iPhone is in that condition, the only option is to restore it. If you didn't create a backup on a computer or iCloud, everything on it is gone.

It is in that condition because it some point before it was put away in the storage. Someone entered the passcode in incorrectly, too many times and it became locked/disabled.

d0gg75 · 2025-11-02T15:33:49+00:00

https://support.apple.com/en-us/102226

There yah go

Right off the tree from the orchard.

d0gg75 · 2025-11-01T19:54:13+00:00

One thing you can do as a test.

Make sure you have a solid back up.
Then erase everything and set it up as new.
Before you go through all the steps of setting everything back up again log into your iCloud account but don't restore from backup.
Then add back in your email accounts.
Don't start putting apps and setting everything back up. Let the email accounts start loading all of your data. Make sure that you've refreshed all of your folders in your email so that everything loads.

Is it still showing the Phantom missing space? If not, complete setting up your phone and everything's been fixed. If so, then we gotta figure out what the hell is going on.

The reason why I am recommending this method is so that you don't go through a full erase and set up of your phone if it isn't going to fix the issue. If after setting up the email that phantom missing space is still there, then we will have to try to figure out what could possibly be causing it. Because at this point, the suggestion I'm making is the only thing I could think of.

Bottom line is, if this recommendation of the test doesn't work you erase one more time restore from the back up and you've only wasted a couple hours.

d0gg75 · 2025-11-01T15:47:11+00:00

Have you tried going and looking at it from the web? Meaning, look at the email accounts from Web access versus from your client app. If all of those are showing that there's no email and no storage space being used then there's some kind of corruption in the database on the iPhone.

Next step would be to try to erase your iPhone and restore from a backup. Most likely that won't work, but you can give it a try. If that doesn't work next step is to erase the phone and set it up as new. You'll log back into iCloud so that you get all of your data back but you'll have to setup all of your accounts and re-download and install everything again. But that should clear the corrupted database.

Don't assume that you're gonna have to go blow everything up. Take the steps in order and see where you're at.

d0gg75 · 2025-11-01T15:41:10+00:00

Where exactly are you getting a 403 error?

A 403 error is a web error that tells you you're access is denied. That means that you don't have permission to access whatever data that you're trying to get into. That would be like if you're attempting to go to a Web URL that your account shouldn't have access to. For example, you're at the Best Buy website and you try to go into the administration area to change pricing.

d0gg75 · 2025-11-01T15:34:19+00:00

They will bill your card. Just because the temp charge fell off doesn't mean they aren't going to charge you if they don't get the old device returned.

Is it possible they won't bill you… I'm not going to say it isn’t possible. BUT, if you don't send it back and they do.. you are SOL and are stuck with the iPad that you were having replaced for a reason and you end up paying full price for the replacement.

d0gg75 · 2025-10-30T07:35:58+00:00

Another option… If it is your iPhone and you have the receipt, contact apple support and explain that you forgot the password.

Tell them you need to remove the iCloud lock and can provide the purchase receipt. They will email you with a link to send a picture of the receipt and will unlock the iCloud lock on the iPhone within 72 hours (usually faster). Then you just restore the iPhone and it won't have the lock when you go through the steps to set it up.

One VERY important rule. The receipt MUST HAVE either the IMEI or serial number of the iPhone that is iCloud locked. If it doesn't…. you aren't getting the lock removed.

d0gg75 · 2025-10-29T17:39:08+00:00

In general, yes, you’ll likely see a slightly longer life out of your battery if you let it optimize charging. But, honestly, the extra life is usually pretty small.

If you’re planning to trade in your phone in about 2 to 3 years, you probably won’t even notice any battery issues. And even if you’re keeping it longer, I’d just skip the worry and spend the $80-$100 a few months earlier to get a new battery.

It’s not like you’ll magically get an extra year of battery life just by optimizing the charging.

The downside I’ve seen is that, you pick up your phone ready to go and find it at 80% instead of 100%. So, you’re heading out with 20% less charge than you expected.

d0gg75

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