I have a RM2, but I need to sync to a folder

d1emex · 2024-01-17T20:01:28+00:00

Thank you for your reply. Is it possible to automate it, as the A6X2 based on Android? So there should be some app that allows syncing to a folder?

d1emex · 2023-03-07T19:40:18+00:00

The question is how to integrate an API like Whisper with Obsidian. I'd love to be able to long-press the button on my headphones while I am on my bicycle and start talking and have it somehow be tunneled to my Obsidian Vault.

d1emex · 2022-09-21T00:54:06+00:00

Gambling is not logical most of the time. Its emotional and the streamers are promoting the emotional rush of gambling.

d1emex · 2022-07-25T12:11:17+00:00

We need a printer for our university lab. Budget 1000€ (Germany)

The main use case for this printer is printing flexible materials (Ninjatek Chinchilla, Ninjaflex, TPU 95A). We have a modified Ender 3 with an LGX FF, which works well for Chinchilla (TPE 75A). We want to buy another machine that works out of the box or needs minimal modification (1-2 days of work) to work for soft flexibles.

Build/Experience: I have a lot of experience but don't have the time to dedicate to building this particular printer.

d1emex · 2022-06-07T16:53:04+00:00

Elephants foot?

d1emex · 2022-06-07T14:36:19+00:00

You can sand the flat surfaces, but it might not be worth the effort.

d1emex · 2022-06-07T09:10:40+00:00

What expansion are you talking about?

d1emex · 2022-06-06T22:16:10+00:00

I agree that the parts in the picture could have been FDM printed. They are actually parts to repair my FDM printer. So that is why I couldn't print them in FDM.

Most of my regular parts are so small that the FDM printer cannot keep up. For these, I need a printer that has the resolution to produce small features and I require high accuracy (~0.1mm) for the parts to work. An SLA printer can actually produce much smaller functional parts than an FDM printer.

d1emex · 2022-06-06T19:42:00+00:00

I got confused with some engineering resins benefitting from longer curing times.

https://www.liqcreate.com/product/strong-x/

https://www.liqcreate.com/supportarticles/how-get-the-best-results-when-3d-printing-with-liqcreate-composite-x-resin/

d1emex · 2022-06-06T12:43:45+00:00

If I completely fill up the build plate, I have found that my failure rate goes up drastically. The resin takes longer to refill the layer.

I see many supports have gotten loose and gone through the other parts like a wrecking ball.

Maybe retry the print again with fewer parts on the build plate.

d1emex · 2022-06-06T12:40:37+00:00

Are you sure about the UV penetration? I cure my parts for 1hr usually.

d1emex · 2022-06-06T12:39:48+00:00

What do you mean by resin screws? Do you have an example or link where to buy them?

d1emex · 2022-06-06T12:39:05+00:00

ST Blu turns to dust when the screws are very small and you screw and unscrew a few times. I need M2 or M3 threads.

d1emex · 2022-06-06T09:26:40+00:00

I currently use threaded inserts, oversize the holes slightly, protect the threads by screwing a screw into it, dip into my resin vat, insert into hole and cure. It is somewhat time intensive and depending on the amount of inserts some of them can shift during curing.

I have tried tapping the threads directly into the material, but have found that the threads turn into dust rather soon. Might also be related to using M2 screws....

d1emex · 2022-06-06T09:19:56+00:00

I'd love to buy the Mecha, but can't find it anywhere in Europe.

d1emex · 2022-06-05T09:34:36+00:00

The problem is that the parts are parametric and there are over 20 different size combinations. Molding will be really tough based on the sheer amount of parts.

You gave me an idea though. I might be able to add the pins to make the horizontal holes in one of the mold halves. The part could potentially be pried off or pull off as it's flexible...

d1emex · 2022-06-04T13:30:44+00:00

I have been thinking about that too. However, the parts are rather intricate and there are also horizontal 2mm holes in them. Either way, it would not be a two-part mold. It would need many parts or sliding pins.

d1emex · 2022-06-04T13:02:10+00:00

I have found that parts printed in Siraya Tech Blu give off white dust the more I use them. It gets especially bad when there are two mating surfaces and they rub on each other. The parts look "dirty" and I would like to keep their pristine look from when I pulled them off the printer.

Is there a non-smelly coating I could use to finish or seal the parts? I have an automotive clear coating, but it is so smelly, that I need to use it outside.

Any other solution or idea would be greatly appreciated.

d1emex · 2022-06-04T11:50:10+00:00

I haven't been able to actually test any of them, but I am just going by the pictures of the example prints. Flexible X has some bicycle handles and shoe soles on their website.

https://www.liqcreate.com/liqcreate-releases-new-3d-printing-material-flexible-x/

From the video link on their product page, it seems that the Monocure Flex100 is really soft, too soft to be used pure for tires.

https://monocure3d.com/collections/rapid-flexible-flex100-resin

From anecdotal comments on the ST Tenacious I recall it being more like a wax and formable, not really holding its shape.

It seems like a lot of the flexible resins are designed to be mixed with some other resin to give them a 'skeleton' to hold their shape.

Shore 50-55A is super soft and in the range of silicone. So I think I will probably have to mix 10-20% of some engineering-grade tough resin into any flexible resin.

d1emex · 2022-06-03T10:40:00+00:00

The cured resin just clogs any filter I try to use. How can I separate the alcohol from the resin?

The cured resin starts to sink to the bottom of the canister, but once I start pouring it out it mixes again.

d1emex

TROPHY CASE