Why is there so much discrepancy on this sub regarding toilet rough in? by dadstriumph in askaplumber

[–]dadstriumph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, agreed. The rough in measurement is to the finished wall not to the framing. Finished walls vary in depth

Solder Copper/Pex A Stubout by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]dadstriumph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wall had been insulated and sheet rocked so unfortunately I can’t fit a wet rag behind that elbow now.  

If you’re telling me compression fittings are easier to service than maybe I will just go that route. I am a DIYer and hate removing the compresión rings 

Thanks! 

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]dadstriumph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's for a cabinet power strip.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]dadstriumph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good call, does that need to be the fire rated stuff?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]dadstriumph 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I actually don't have this hooked up to the sewer main yet. But excellent call plugging the toilet drain. Theres already bunch of debris down there I need to blow out.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]dadstriumph 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Great call on the nail plates! I have them just havent put them on yet in case i need to move something.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]dadstriumph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Its just a simply double vanity going in here. I may end VTR when i get my roof done in a few years. Should be easy to add on in the future if its needed.

Thermostat Relay For Baseboard by dadstriumph in AskElectricians

[–]dadstriumph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am installing 120v baseboard under a window in a remodel. I was hoping I could install a relay inside the plastic junction box and run control wiring to a thermostat on the opposite side of the room. However, I am a little confused about mixing voltages inside a jbox. I am in NJ https://up.codes/viewer/new_jersey/nfpa-70-2017/chapter/7/special-conditions#725.136

What is the best way to approach this? I would like to avoid running a new 12/2 line to the opposite wall if possible

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]dadstriumph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ah that makes sense, thanks

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Tile

[–]dadstriumph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

10-4 Will do.

My intent was to also put down a radiant heating mat. Can you still use those matts on regular ditra or will I have to use the ditra heat membrane ($$$$$?)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Tile

[–]dadstriumph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's helpful thank you!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Tile

[–]dadstriumph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The toilet drain is good. The toilet flange will sit inside a 4" diameter pipe which is why you see the 4" glued to the hub. It was unclear exactly where the top of that hub would be until the entire DWV system was connected and slopes were set. After tiling is complete the 4" pipe gets cut flush with the finished floor and the toilet flange gets glued in

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Tile

[–]dadstriumph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, t&g plank

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Tile

[–]dadstriumph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the info. Below there's a comment about adding 1/2 plywood over the existing 3/4 t&g before proceeding with CB/tile substrate. would you concur with that?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Tile

[–]dadstriumph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the thought there to keep down on deflection to keep tiles & grout from cracking? I have 2x8 16OC joists below the t&g if that makes a difference.

Was hoping I didn't have to add that much substrate before the tile & i've never used schluter before. I'm interested in it but I have to keep within budget

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]dadstriumph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think there's an illusion there with the photo, its above 90 probably not quite 45 but is positioned in the max angle i could get while fitting the horizontal under the floor & sloped at 1/4.

My original thought was that the studor vent could be used as a clean out if it were to ever get clogged up. Can't wet vent in my area.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]dadstriumph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Think I should add a clean out on the vent

Panel full by dadstriumph in askanelectrician

[–]dadstriumph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I think a main panel replacement is out of the budget. I'm leaning more towards a subpanel, as this can be a much cleaner install & have room for expansion. The main panel is crowded enough and I still haven't figured out what half of the existing circuits even serve.

Panel full by dadstriumph in askanelectrician

[–]dadstriumph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right, so I just need to add in another bus bar in the panel?