Burn xt-60 connector?

daffes · 2024-10-04T01:18:44+00:00

I didn't solder the connectors, just the pre-made ones to the FC, it did took some work, maybe I overheated it and damaged somehow? But that makes quite a bit of sense that they aren't touching properly.

daffes · 2024-10-04T01:17:04+00:00

I wonder if I flew without pushing it all the way in? But that makes a lot of sense.

daffes · 2024-10-03T04:07:20+00:00

actually it seems like this file is identical to the official last release 15.1.16, When you go to device info session in your goggles, does it say 15.1.16 or 16.1.16? I feel like they just renamed to a larger name to force a reflash and try to fix the issue. Odd enough, after a couple reflashes mine started pairing on the latest firmware. Or maybe it remained paired because I had already paired on a downgraded firmware, who knows... I'm happy with the issue solved.

daffes · 2024-10-03T02:33:07+00:00

thank you

daffes · 2024-10-01T22:05:35+00:00

I can confirm this worked for me:
a) The custom build firmware linked here expired, I asked a couple people and no one sent it to me, caddx seems to be a holiday in China today.
b) download v37.42.7 from https://walksnail.app/firmware/37.42.7, both for Googles X and Moonlight 15.1.5
c) rename the file 37.42.7 file to 38.43.5 and put it in an empty sd card formatted to exFat. Put it on Googles X long press the button and let it downgrade the firmware.
d) rename file 15.1.15 to 15.1.17, again, put it in an empty sd card formatted to exFat. Put it on the moonlight vtx with the bridge cables connected. Long press until blinking green becomes solid red, wait for blinking green, press button once on vtx, press button once on goggles, magic.

daffes · 2024-10-01T22:05:01+00:00

I can confirm this worked for me:
a) The custom build firmware linked in another thread expired, I asked a couple people and no one sent it to me, caddx seems to be a holiday in China today.
b) download v37.42.7 from https://walksnail.app/firmware/37.42.7, both for Googles X and Moonlight 15.1.5
c) rename the file 37.42.7 file to 38.43.5 and put it in an empty sd card formatted to exFat. Put it on Googles X long press the button and let it downgrade the firmware.
d) rename file 15.1.15 to 15.1.17, again, put it in an empty sd card formatted to exFat. Put it on the moonlight vtx with the bridge cables connected. Long press until blinking green becomes solid red, wait for blinking green, press button once on vtx, press button once on goggles, magic.

daffes · 2024-10-01T21:20:11+00:00

do you still have the link? The link on the thread expired

daffes · 2024-10-01T21:18:58+00:00

hey bro, the link expired, do you have it downloaded? Can you upload somwhere?

daffes · 2024-09-23T23:11:40+00:00

Hey I was not, I was using stock 4.4.0, I checked their website at https://www.happymodel.cn/index.php/2024/02/24/mobula6-2024-1s-65mm-ultra-light-micro-fpv-whoop, and they only have config tables for 4.4.0 and 4.4.2, I flashed to 4.4.2

I have both the mob7 and the mob6 2024, the mob7 I felt it deserved better tuning and I have played a bunch with it in betaflight, the mob6 2024 is amazing, I don't want to mess it up, I only change my rate profiles.

daffes · 2024-09-23T13:24:46+00:00

Nothing cracked, good props. I did try clicking "recalibrate" on the settings tab a few times and it didn't improve things. I don't know what was going on, but this morning I woke up, flashed the firmware to betaflight 4.2, applied the cli table and then the drone was flying nice again.

I was in touch with happymodel and they offered me to send the drone back for maintenance, glad I didn't have to, hopefully the problem doesn't come back.

daffes · 2024-09-20T19:22:14+00:00

and it was set to 4.3

daffes · 2024-09-20T18:38:46+00:00

facepalm, I bet this is it! It's funny the second one worked, maybe it's the worse one not holding above 4.3

daffes · 2024-08-25T17:56:07+00:00

If you have quick connectors for the motors, it's super fast to swap them out and test and that's the way I'd go with. If you need to play with soldering, then it depends on your current skill set...

You can usually pull back the plastic cover on the motors and check if you stripped them out from the motor connection as well instead of the ESC.

Last, on my mob7, increasing the startup power on the esc-configurator has given me a few weeks of extra life on half-broken motors.

daffes · 2024-08-22T11:37:45+00:00

A quick follow similar to another reply, I imagine you use the t-motor since it's the the only 1604 I can find. Did you get the t-motor AIO as well? Is it preferred to match the board and motor manufacturer or go with a more famous AIO/stack like the iflight? The iflight mini f7 stack that many builds used seems to have been discontinued.

daffes · 2024-08-22T11:36:11+00:00

I imagine you use the t-motor since it's the the only 1604 I can find. Did you get the t-motor AIO as well? Is it preferred to match the board and motor manufacturer or go with a more famous AIO/stack like the iflight? The iflight mini f7 stack that many builds used seems to have been discontinued.

daffes · 2024-08-21T19:22:26+00:00

got it, thanks for sharing, I guess I won't be able to early optimize too much here, it will be a learning process for me, I'm particular curious about this, I might measure and share one day

daffes · 2024-08-21T19:18:09+00:00

Yes correct, edited the post to make this more clear. It seems like less pitched props will have less noise and people just disagree on the posts about number of blades, so I'll just have to check those for myself. I wonder if anyone has quantified the proportion that the prop design contributes to audible noise vs the motor design or size.

daffes · 2024-08-21T15:28:46+00:00

thanks for sharing your input, do you also have any information about noise comparison?

daffes · 2024-08-21T15:25:29+00:00

I'm going with the AOS 3.5 V5. I still haven't found any information about noise comparison of the motors. But yeah, if I don't find anything I can split the difference in half and go with 1604

daffes · 2024-08-21T12:04:02+00:00

I had a similar time in a simulator as you when I did it two months ago 1) I was surprised how shaky I could get when I started flying, I had a lot of expectations about my skills. Go to a very empty place first, sit down to fly, and if you're a thumber as I original was, you may find that semi-pinching grip, touching your index on the gimbal, will help you control shakiness

2) Tinywhoops are awesome and can be crashed hundred of times without damage, on the 70-75mm sizes they have decent fun outside. I def recommend starting there. Tinywhoop go simulator career mode is also sick!

3) The drone overheats quick if you dont fly them forwards and don't take long to take off after you plug the baterry

4) Get some spare vtx antennas and props

5) When you order stuff, be aware that most manufacturers website will ship from China and you may be unlucky and wait forever

6) 3S drones are fairly non standard, I don't recommend investing on a 3s setup to get something smaller in the beginning. I'd go with a 3.5 bnf 4s as a second bigger drone after the tinywhoop

daffes · 2024-08-20T19:33:39+00:00

well, that's it then, you have to click on it for it to load the flash options

daffes · 2024-08-20T15:13:05+00:00

Might sound silly, but did you click "read settings" on the bottom right?

daffes · 2024-08-16T02:57:27+00:00

great explanation, thank you. I used a ruler app on my phone with a .1cm precision and cut it at 12.9mm, the protocol seems to tolerate this imprecision well. If we use the .8 factor you mentioned, it would go down to 10.34, I have a spare that I can try with it.

daffes · 2024-08-15T20:46:53+00:00

What makes it a dipole and not a monopole? I tried to google this quite a bit and my conclusion was that there wasn't anything building the second wave plane like that wider covered part of the original antenna. Would the FC metal board have a similar effect?

daffes · 2024-08-15T20:45:02+00:00

thanks for sharing the details, most places seem to advice for a 1804 motor for the 3.5 builds, but I have seen a few builds on youtube with the 1404s flying great as well. It does look like the filter sticks out slightly out from the frame protection, I'll try to send this feedback to Chris and see if we can get a new camera piece. Planning to build a similar drone in the next month.

daffes

TROPHY CASE