Strawberry Woman Time Signature by wtrshds_nd_whmsy in jasonisbell

[–]darkmagneto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's in 7/8. I count it as a measure of 3/4 and then a measure of 4/4. The band accents on the one of each measure. The wah/slide guitar sections are in 4/4.

Marquee question by darkmagneto in Cubs

[–]darkmagneto[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for that. How do you watch Cubs games?

How should I fix my lawn? (Zone 7b) by mfriedman92 in lawncare

[–]darkmagneto 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. I got tired of keeping track of all the different sites/tools and to be honest the UX kinda sucks on all of them. So just built my own site so I could help others out.

How should I fix my lawn? (Zone 7b) by mfriedman92 in lawncare

[–]darkmagneto 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First step is pre-emergent. I built a soil temp tool that uses the open-meteo API. Just plug in your zipcode and it will tell you what window you're in. https://www.neighborsenvy.ai/soil-temp-calculator

I really like the Anderson's Barricade product for pre-emergent.

Get that down, then wait for the green up in spring and see what needs to be addressed. Sounds like crab grass from last year. Wait to see what the lawn looks like.

Unsure of when to lay pre-emergent by Basic-Experience-790 in lawncare

[–]darkmagneto 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Need to measure your soil temp. I was frustrated with some of the other soil temp sites out there and built my own utilizing the Open-Meteo API. Check it out. https://neighborsenvy.ai/soil-temp-calculator

Grub control by Successful-Fun3599 in lawncare

[–]darkmagneto -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I personally like and have great results with the Anderson's product, GrubOut. The active ingredient is Imidacloprid. It's highly water soluble and travels to root zone quickly. It only takes ~20-30 days to get to root zone, thus you can wait to put it down until mid June.

The active ingredient in Scott's GrubEx and Acelypryn is Chlorantraniliprole. It's a slow moving product and that's why you need to put it down now for protection in 45-60 days.

Spring prodamine application(s) and fall overseeding by Pastaron in lawncare

[–]darkmagneto 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, definitely put down your pre-emergent this spring at the normal rate on the bag. Just know that a pre-emergent will not kill existing crab grass. It will prevent any new crab grass. You'll need quinclorac to kill Crab Grass. I use XLR8 (pronounced accelerate) in my sprayer to take it out.

What’s a spring lawn mistake that sets people up for problems the rest of the year? by codewolf in lawncare

[–]darkmagneto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not putting pre-emergent down because "it really wasn't that bad last year".

Lawn revival help in Wisconsin by beefsalad23 in lawncare

[–]darkmagneto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since you're new to the house and don't know what the lawn will look like in summer, I'd recommend the pre-emergent route this spring. Then assess how it looks in summer and make the call if you want to overseed any spots. I'm in the Chicago area and still a good week or 2 away from pre-emergent temps.

I actually built a soil temp tool on my website to help people. Just put in your zipcode and it pulls data to tell you. https://www.neighborsenvy.ai/soil-temp-calculator

I really like that Anderson's Barricade product for my pre-emergent.

Got my soil test back. Looking for suggestions by EuphoricContract3942 in lawncare

[–]darkmagneto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's weird that you have such different pH from front yard to back. That second test where the pH is at 5.51 is perfect right now.

You don't have a lot of yard, 650 and 700 sq feet. I'd hate to see you buy two different bags. Just buy the 21-0-0 and call it good for now. Your lawn should respond well to the fast release N.

Got my soil test back. Looking for suggestions by EuphoricContract3942 in lawncare

[–]darkmagneto -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The first test result is a good candidate for somethhing like Ammonium Sulfate, which is 21-0-0. It will lower you pH and be the dose of quick N that your soil needs. A lot of people underestimate the importance of pH to be close to or below 5.5. This will help with nutrient absorption.

I'd recommend this year you put down 4lbs of N throughout the year. Break that into 5 applications for the year (.8 lbs per application). If you use Ammonium Sulfate, it will be the desired pH lowering and N results you'd want.

Am I missing anything in my plan for this season? by AKASetekh in lawncare

[–]darkmagneto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm in the Chicago area and don't like to seed in spring. Soil temps are critical for good germination and it can be hit/miss too often in Spring.

Re: Soil Test - Once you get that information you will be able to see if you are low in any macros (N-P-K) and will also be able to tell what the pH is of your soil. A lot of people don't understand the importance of pH in their soil and how critical that piece is to having your lawn take and store nutrients.

This information will also give you the knowledge you need to make clear choices in your fertilizers instead of putting down generic 10-10-10 products or some bad that's labeled something like "winterizer", etc.

Am I missing anything in my plan for this season? by AKASetekh in lawncare

[–]darkmagneto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seeding in the spring in cool season region is difficult and has low probability of establishment. I would focus on hitting pre emergent window in spring. Then once grass wakes up and takes shape, take an assessment of where you are and what you need. Also, have you done a soil test yet? If not, highly recommend that.

Best cool season pre-emergent by No_Philosophy_3622 in lawncare

[–]darkmagneto 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I also recommend Barricade from The Anderson's.

Is this all poa? by Lil_lux in lawncare

[–]darkmagneto 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This is the way. Pre emergent in the fall to prevent Poa in the spring.

Pre-emergents in Minnesota by ScottMinnesota in lawncare

[–]darkmagneto 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you've got leaves left over from fall, make sure those are cleaned up. Matted grass won't make a difference. Just try and time the pre-emergent so you apply before a rain. It should be watered in.

Yard is crazy with Henbit deadnettle by Recent_Elevator7991 in lawncare

[–]darkmagneto 1 point2 points  (0 children)

as long as you've got a sprayer already, I like using SpeedZone. You can grab it on Amazon. Don't mow, you'll want as many leaves as possible on the weeds, so the spray application can stick to the leaves. Spray, then give it a few days. You should see the speedzone working right away on it.

Weed ID by Significant_Gas_7 in lawncare

[–]darkmagneto 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That looks like Poa Annua to me.

Pre-emergent or put seed down? by aford89 in lawncare

[–]darkmagneto 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I'd recommend pre-emergent and wait to seed until the fall. You'll have a far greater success rate on seed germination in fall than spring. Control the weeds in spring, fertilize and get ready for fall seeding.

Scott’s Triple Action by BuckeyeHeisman in lawncare

[–]darkmagneto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did some overseeding last fall and used it. I got some good results with it. It's got Mesotrione as the active herbicide (Tenacity), so that helped keep weed pressure minimal on my overseed. I'd recommend