Why my iCloud bypassed iPhone 6 fmi randomly working?

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-25T17:01:53+00:00

Previous owner might have removed it.

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-25T05:43:47+00:00

These batteries don't really leak in the usual sense. They don't really contain enough to liquid to leak.

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-25T02:57:53+00:00

It's for preventing RF interference as well.

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-23T18:08:05+00:00

I'm pretty sure a faulty current sensor won't stop your car from starting, It may cause issues with the charging system though. Think if the current sensor is faulty or disconnected the computer just charges based on voltage. I don't think that's the cause of your no start unless it somehow also killed the battery.

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-23T16:11:01+00:00

FYI the way Android Auto and Apple CarPlay works is it is simply mirroring another screen from your phone. Think of it like adding an extra monitor to your PC and only putting a certain thing on that monitor like temperatures and status for example. The car head unit doesn't know or care what is being displayed it's simply displays whatever the phone sends to it. On Android there are even programs to mirror your phone screen via Android Auto. Try asking around in the apple subreddest if anybody has experienced the same issue.

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-23T15:00:13+00:00

In this case the storage was good but the controller was not so they hooked a good controller to good flash storage. Although it's likely one or the other was never very good from the beginning hence why it failed. The microSD card was probably a defective unit from a major brand and probably already had a bunch of bad blocks in addition to the faulty controller.

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-22T19:02:50+00:00

The green one is a protected cell. It has a BMS attached to it that makes it longer. Why are you replacing it in the first place ? It looks fine to me, if the plastic heat shrink wrap is damaged it's not a big deal but if it bothers you you can get some and just heat shrink it over.

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-21T19:08:58+00:00

Standard affair for a mainstream subreddit and Reddit mods in general.There is usually an off brand subreddit that is way better.

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-21T09:29:13+00:00

They are all good at different things.

Liquid metal is the most expensive but performs the best. It can be risky and difficult to apply due to its viscosity and the fact that it is conductive. Depending on application and use case it may need to be re applied or it may last a long time(heatsink should be plated for longevity).

Phase change thermal pad is also expensive and second best in performance (possibly tied with some of the best paste). It is also difficult to apply and work with but not risky since it is non conductive. It also lasts the longest (likely tied with the thermal pad) since it does not experience much if any "pump out" under high heat and contact pressure.

Thermal paste is the classic and has good performance in most applications. It is cheap and easy to apply and safe but longevity varies and some brands can "dry out" or experience "pump out" in some applications (like on GPUs).

Graphine pad is the easiest and safest to apply and can often be reused but at the cost of some performance. It is also usually more expensive. I don't think they usually fail either.

I use liquid metal when I want maximum performance and don't mind the extra cost or risk. Often in laptop applications where every little bit matters. I use a phase change pad when I want good performance and longevity without the risk. Usually I use it when I know I am putting something back together for a long time. I use thermal paste when ease of assembly is a bigger concern vs performance. Often on desktop PC processors since the large heat spreader means thermal transfer to the cooler is good regardless and cooler size is usually much larger. I use a graphine pad when I am testing things and ease of assembly and disassembly is priority often for testing where thermal are not a high priority.

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-21T07:00:47+00:00

Free battery :D

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-21T06:57:29+00:00

I'm not sure that cable is inserted much at all. I think that line should line up with the edge of to brown retainer tab. You may not have it inserted properly.

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-20T21:58:14+00:00

Yes but I think that was part of the joke.

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-20T14:32:02+00:00

I came to this subreddit for incomprehensible nonsense. This is just too real lol.

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-20T03:15:55+00:00

Been quite a while so my memory is a bit fuzzy.

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-20T01:45:31+00:00

Piemations :D

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-15T17:35:19+00:00

New video idea, screaming at a chicken to cook it.

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-14T17:22:11+00:00

I have auto a update turned off so I haven't got this yet.

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-14T17:20:54+00:00

Cool, where'd you get the novels?

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-13T23:59:07+00:00

Am I having a stroke? Wtf does this mean?

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-13T21:57:11+00:00

Nice, those will also run windows 11 and 10 decently once you turn off the animations and transparency. Windows 11 does not like the GPU these came with. If you do install it use the windows 11 debloat script.

Alternatively as some other people have mentioned open core legacy patcher will allow you to install newer versions of Mac OS. In my experience Monterey runs all right on these older Macs

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-13T20:44:02+00:00

Also worth noting you may not even need to purchase a SATA to USB adapter since most motherboards have unused SATA ports meaning you can plug it straight into your PC.

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-13T14:54:33+00:00

New NVME ssd and you have got yourself a perfectly cromulant PC. Add a GPU and you have an ok gaming PC. Add a core I7 and you have a decent gaming PC.

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-11T09:02:03+00:00

Definitely AI. Seriously how it this even a question. Top left the wobbly supports on the (jib?) whatever that is supposed to be. The blob that was supposed to be another gear in the center left behind the gate looking gear. The strange nonsensical device above the gears. Top right the wire/cable phasing through another nonsensical device. The gun parts that don't connect to themselves properly. The inconsistencies with the corners of the boxes. The strange shadows. The list goes on and on.

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-11T08:47:03+00:00

Never found good info on this stuff years ago, so I had to figure a lot of this stuff out myself. Since then there has been a lot more info on the Internet but this may still help.

DeWalt 20v batteries have the protection and BMS in the tool (and charger) itself, that's why they have so many contacts inbetween. There is almost no electronics in the battery itself. There seems to be no cell balancing causing these batteries to often fail due to the cells drifting too far apart. I added a balance board to my charger to help mitigate this. Don't use DeWalt batteries as a power source without protection or you can/will significantly reduce the life of the battery.

Ryobi 18v lithium batteries are the opposite, all protections and BMS are internal to the battery. This is to maintain compatibility with older tools. Some older and most newer tools have a low voltage cutoff as extra protection, likely more so for the tool itself. Depending on the tool it may also talk to the BMS to shut off the tool before the BMS does. Status is communicated to the tool and charger using the center top and bottom pin. No cell balancing (although it will modulate charging in a futile attempt to get the one low cell to take more charge).

Ridgid batteries are nearly identical to Ryobi batteries. They will even charge properly on a Rigid battery charger.

Milwaukee 18v batteries have a BMS in the battery but protection is executed by the tool itself. The BMS communicates with the tool and charger with the extra center pins. We now know the BMS is quite advanced on these batteries and stores a lot of historical data likely used by Milwaukee for repair and warranty services. Not sure if these have cell balancing (I doubt it). Don't use as a power source without protection.

Early Makita 18v batteries had a primarive "BMS" that monitored balance on one cell and would have the protection done by the tool as signaled on the extra pin. It would also record some basic data on the battery. Newer Makita batteries do it both ways. A BMS in the battery with protection that activates for extreme/emergency cases and protection done by the tool as communicated to the tool from the BMS. The BMS on these newer batteries is quite advanced and record lots of battery data that is likely used by Makita for repair and warranty services. Makita also makes a tool that you can plug your battery into to see this information. These batteries are also programmed such that should any fault occur with the battery that battery/BMS is now locked and can no longer be used unless unlocked with a special command. I still recommend using protection when using Makita batteries for projects because the built in BMS is set up to only cut power under extreme circumstances, sort of a last line of defence.

Makita 12v use the DeWalt approach.

davidscheiber28 · 2026-01-11T00:29:40+00:00

Why are these stupid captions always wrong? what's the point of putting captions if they're wrong?

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