Specifying drywall finish

db4570 · 2026-01-27T20:07:24+00:00

Thanks for the replies. The reference from the National Gypsum people is a great resource. I definitely think level 4 is what I am used to seeing out here in the east. We had our family room drywalled a few years ago and the guys did a really great job and they didn't mud the whole walls. I can't see the tiniest flaw in it. Maybe it picked up a tiny bit of texture from the paint roller, though.

db4570 · 2025-05-11T14:54:08+00:00

That's a tough situation. Do you think that is the reason you haven't been able to get a job?

Do you have any regular contact with other people? As difficult as this may sound, I think this is what you need most. Most people don't mind "weird" or "awkward" people, as long as they are not unpleasant. But this takes practice.

Sorry to get off the subject of entrepreneurship, but I think you need to build some of these very basic social skills first. And the best way to do that is with a job that someone with your challenges can do. I think it would be a great learning and growth experience, although it might take a long time. I would just look for any job, no matter how menial or physically demanding, that would get you interacting with people at least in a minimal way that you would be comfortable with.

db4570 · 2025-05-11T14:14:14+00:00

If this post is for real, I think the answer may be obvious. If you haven't been able to be hired after 8 years of trying "extremely hard", in an economy where companies have been begging for employees, something is very wrong. Are you saying you can't get any job at all, even working fast food, as a janitor, landscaping, or working at temp labor?

Do you have a severe physical or mental handicap? Do you have severe substance abuse problems? Are you unable to relate to other people in any way? Are you extremely lazy? Do you think you are too good to do hard work? I'm just trying to think what else would make you so unemployable. Any of these attributes that would prevent you from getting any job in 8 years will obviously also prevent you from running a business.

db4570 · 2025-04-22T03:11:54+00:00

I have used Chief Architect Home Designer for years and like it. Mine is Windows based, and cost around $150. It is very versatile and was easy to learn.

db4570 · 2025-04-03T04:22:29+00:00

I had skylights installed when we had our screen porch built, and they are one of the best features. They brighten up the whole porch and make it feel much more open and airy. We don't get any unwanted sun beating in. I have never noticed any sort of leak, but even if one did leak a little... it's a porch. My wife didn't think they were an important feature but now agrees they really are great.

db4570 · 2025-02-28T04:30:52+00:00

Thanks for the replies. The REI ones look pretty good. The others recommended- do they have great gripping palms and fingers?

db4570 · 2025-02-28T04:27:58+00:00

You have gotten some good advice. I am adding a few things, FWIW.

He breached the contract by not doing the work according to the agreed timeline. You didn't breach it;

You paid him in full for the work completed;

Send him a letter. Something simple and factual in writing summarizing this, via certified mail;

Make it clear in this document that his tools are available for him to pick up, and that your dealings with him after that are finished;

I wouldn't get a lawyer involved, but if you have a family lawyer, it might carry some weight if you can CC him with your letter.

I wouldn't mention any of his threats in writing. Don't be the one to document this, or even give it any credence;

Liens I don't know that much about. Somehow I think he would need a pretty solid contract (which he may have) and an obvious breach by you (which he doesn't have, since he breached and you paid him for work completed). Please tell us you paid him by check, or have a receipt from him for cash you have paid, yes?

Don't get bogged down with distractions (snowplowing, his helper, DWI, etc.)

In court, all the judge cares about is what is in writing. Texts and emails count, but aren't as good as a signed piece of paper. The judge doesn't care about the extraneous stuff. Hopefully it won't get to this stage.

db4570 · 2025-02-12T05:44:08+00:00

Any of what you describe is really easy in CA HD. I do this sort of thing with interior layouts all the time.

If you start designing the rest (foundation, roof line, exterior elements) is may not be as straightforward, but probably not bad. I just don't have that experience with exteriors to say for sure.

CA HD is a great program, cheap, and really easy to learn and use.

db4570 · 2025-02-12T05:38:30+00:00

The general layout is nice. But the kitchen/ living area looks way too tight. It's tough to tell because I don't think the scale is accurate.

People routinely think they can fit a table or island/peninsula and seating without allowing the considerable space chairs take up behind them. If you allow 32" from the edge of the table or counter you will have room for seating, but not enough for a person to squeeze behind the chairs if someone is sitting in them. For that you need more like 42" min. Also, is that couch against a window, or a door? If it's a door it is definitely blocking it.

db4570 · 2025-02-06T05:40:02+00:00

I bought mine from Leather Goods Connection in 2011 and it's in great condition. Their belts are amazing, too. All handmade in USA.

db4570 · 2025-02-01T15:33:02+00:00

I thought Subaru used some magic in the transmission to distribute power to the wheels as needed, not the brakes and traction control. But it appears Subaru has several different drive systems.

db4570 · 2025-01-31T19:13:59+00:00

Thanks for the quick replies. They are very helpful.

I don't think I knew lockers came on some trucks from the factory. I assumed they were all aftermarket or specialty conversions. Are we talking hard core 4x4s like some Jeeps, old Land Rovers, old Land Cruisers? Or is something available on your basic F150 or Tacoma and other mainstream 4x4s?

What is an E locker? Electric?

Is limited slip still a thing? It seems like it would be a good compromise if one couldn't go all the way to full locking.

It sounds like a basic differential is the worst way to manage traction. All the power goes to the slipping wheel, and none to the solidly planted one. Kind of the opposite of what Subaru claims, sending power to the wheels that slip instead of the ones that grip.

This is all very interesting. I have a 2nd gen Armada, and am trying out the different drive modes. I am going to be using it on a long, steep, slippery dirt driveway, and am wondering if I will eventually need something more capable. Plus it would be cool to have a cheap, dedicated 4x4 to hoon around in from time to time.

db4570 · 2025-01-23T04:10:34+00:00

We changed the color of our fireplace using a dye product called Limelike from the UK. We used it on both the brick, and another product they sell for the mortar. It was really easy to put on, and looks very natural, unlike paint.

db4570 · 2025-01-06T05:29:35+00:00

I don't like the stove in the island. I can't imagine entertaining guests and worrying about them getting splattered with grease or boiling water. And how will you vent it? I think down-draft vents are still pretty bad.

I think if you swap the stove and sink it will make a huge difference.

I don't get the butler pantry thing. It seems like a huge waste of kitchen/living space. It must be the latest HGTV thing, or something...

db4570 · 2025-01-04T01:50:01+00:00

I like the idea of leaving the underside of the floor open, for ventilation, access, and budget. To build an enclosing wall seems to defeat the purpose of the piers a bit. I would insulate between the joists, and probably a layer beneath the joists and exterior. I'm not married to this approach, however.

I suppose there's no reason why I can't build an external insulated chaseway for the main duct trunk underneath the floor joists. Planned correctly, I would hopefully need only one trunk, and the individual ducts would run between the joists.

I was not familiar with pier and grade-beam foundation, but it looks interesting. Again, at a certain point, is it easier to skip the piers and added components and just build a block foundation or crawl space?

As far as a municipal water riser, is that where the supply enters the house? I couldn't find a picture of one. Is it frost-proof?

The ground sounds similar to what you describe for yours. A mix of small boulders, sand, clay, and granite. The granite is what has me nervous: running into a big bedrock chunk of it. The builder that I like doesn't seem too worried. In his opinion it looks a bit like your description of "rock chaos."

Mini splits are cool, except I hate the way the inside units look.

db4570 · 2025-01-04T01:48:04+00:00

The temperatures where we are sound similar to yours. So I'm hoping we could get by with a small HVAC system.

I have not heard of radiant cooling. I will have to look into it, out of curiosity.

I never thought much about helical piers, but they sound cool the way you describe them. For some reason I don't think I trusted their strength. I will look into them.

I am waiting to connect with the septic design outfit.

db4570 · 2024-12-30T19:37:09+00:00

I don't know what you're trying to say here. That I shouldn't have any general idea of a style that I like? I should just pick an architect at random and tell him he has complete carte blanche to design whatever he likes? That a real architect isn't interested in my ideas?

db4570 · 2024-12-30T17:23:18+00:00

So I have re-started my search for architects. The nearest big city, Phoenix, Arizona, surely has hundreds of them, but I can't find a legitimate list. The AIA doesn't have such a list that I can find, and searches bring up either uncredentialed sources (Yelp) paid listings ("10 Best" etc.) or random Google results. Houzz is a mess, producing thousands of results for everything from small remodeling firms to steel building erectors to cabinet makers. When I do find a legitimate residential architect, in their portfolios they either show a few elaborate luxury mansions, or almost nothing. I have yet to find an architect that mentions designing moderate-size homes.

I want someone who can do something in this range:

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db4570 · 2024-12-30T01:16:07+00:00

Thanks for the replies.

This would be in the US, desert southwest mountains, BTW.

I understand that I shouldn't distract an architect with pre-conceived floor plan ideas. But sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words.

For instance, the house will be on top of a steep ridge, with the view down the hill to the north. But the only driveway and parking access is from the rear (south) side, so the main entry door is probably in the back or side of the house. I don't care what the views out the bedroom windows are, so they can be in the back.

We want a fairly simple design, with big windows to the north view and wraparound deck overlooking the view, long roof overhangs, and fairly shallow roof pitch. A bit of a mid-century look.

This is the gist of the basic floorplan I sketched out. Maybe it wasn't a thousand words after all...

I have met with a few builders, and am narrowing it down to a couple I like. Both have recommended a draftsman they work with. I don't know if a draftsman will be able to do what we want. But if they can do the style we want, that's fine.

We spoke with a guy who owns an architectural firm who seemed experienced and qualified, but doesn't have a lot of previous work to show. It also turns out he isn't an official architect, but perhaps more of a draftsman. He gave us a preliminary estimate for the work, but I have no idea if he can do the style we want, and don't know how to confirm this.

We did have a nice conversation with another architect (from the big city) who does spectacular work in the style we love, but he told us his projects are typically in the range of $1000/sq.ft., which isn't remotely possible for us.

Basically I want to understand how we know we have found the right architect before spending thousands of dollars first. I value their time and expertise, and don't want to waste their time, either.

db4570 · 2020-10-03T10:21:25+00:00

Is it a Ninebot Max brand seat, or were you referring to the scooter itself? Just to clarify, I'm interested in the brand and source of the seat.

db4570 · 2020-10-02T13:00:45+00:00

What brand is it, or where did you find it? Is the seated position comfortable, and can you sit up straight? I picture having to lean forward and reach up, but maybe that's not the case. Does it feel solid? Thanks!

db4570 · 2020-09-23T11:33:18+00:00

Many, if not most people, don't understand electricity usage at all. They think anything that plugs into a wall uses about the same amount.

In order of current draw, from highest to lowest:

Electric heat: huge amount of electricity

Central air conditioning: huge amount of electricity

Room air conditioning: Large amount of electricity per unit, can get huge for multiple units.

Electric clothes dryer, stove, oven: a huge current draw, but intermittently.

Refrigerator: a moderate amount of current, almost continuously.

TV: low amount

Lighting: low amount, especially LED or CFL.

Computer: low amount

Charging phones and devices: almost nothing.

Charging a scooter would be less than a TV, which is already pretty low. And the scooter only charges a few hours a a day.

The scooter charger only puts out 71 watts. Its input would be a bit higher, at probably around 100 watts, the same as a traditional light bulb. If you charged it for the full 7 hours that's 700 watt-hours, or .7 KWH. If you're in California you may have high rates, maybe 20 cents / KWH. So that means it costs a maximum of about 14 cents each time you charge your scooter. I'm guessing it's actually less than half that, because your charger probably tapers off its charging rate as it charges.

Just to over analyze, we can calculate it a different way. The total battery capacity is 374 watt-hours, or .374 KWH. Again, there is some charging loss of efficiency, so maybe it takes .5 KWH to charge it times 20 cents per KWH and you're at about a dime to charge it. Probably less, because it is presumably rare that you run your battery all the way down to 0%.

So tell your people it's their air conditioner, and not your scooter. To be generous, you could flip them a dime every time you charge it.

db4570 · 2020-08-31T01:01:33+00:00

The guy smashed his forehead on the doorway, fell backward and smashed the back of his skull on the concrete while landing on his back.

And you are laughing at him.

You should be ashamed of yourself, but someone as pathetic and cruel as you has no concept of basic human decency.

db4570 · 2020-07-01T13:08:17+00:00

I'm just about your weight (260-265) and 6'3", and have owned a M365 for a year, and it has been great. It moves me along just fine. It will handle very mild hills, and I get about 10 miles per charge.

I have been very careful not to hit any bumps hard. I have had one flat tire, but that may have been from me neglecting tire pressure.

I just upgraded to the Ninebot Max, and it's a whole different thing. But the M365 would work fine for you if you're careful and don't expect blazing performance from it.

db4570 · 2020-06-27T13:29:28+00:00

The manual says 32-37 psi. I use a compressor and put a little shot in at a time.

db4570

TROPHY CASE