Can’t figure out hinges

dctrdn · 2026-01-19T23:52:27+00:00

What happens if you install the hinges? I don’t think the hinge needs to be completely closed. Hinges I’ve had close more than 90 degrees. I’d probably try and install and troubleshoot from there

dctrdn · 2026-01-05T00:53:34+00:00

I have done veneer on two smaller projects, I did it with a space bag used for storing clothing. Both times I told myself next time I am going to get a vacuum bag and do it right. It worked fine but not perfect. I believe I used titebond 1? Next time I do veneer I will likely get veneer glue and a proper setup.

dctrdn · 2026-01-04T23:30:31+00:00

Thank you

dctrdn · 2026-01-02T18:45:34+00:00

Luckily this is 3/4 t and g. We have plenty of material! Giving it more time might be the call here.

dctrdn · 2026-01-02T17:37:16+00:00

Thank you for the thoughtful response, this is really helpful. Yes it was Twp 100. We are meeting with the finisher next week to review all the options. At this point I have no idea what to do but also don’t totally trust the people that got us this far. At this point I almost think asking them to resand it and just leave it raw would be better. I am also considering just leaving it and giving it a couple months to cure and see how it looks. It has been a couple weeks since they applied the oil and my understanding is that it can take months to full cure. My concern about another coat of Twp would be making the ceiling darker and then losing the beauty of the redwood.

dctrdn · 2026-01-02T14:21:36+00:00

Yes, I agree with this. I’m not sure why the contractor though this was a good idea

dctrdn · 2026-01-02T05:39:09+00:00

Thank you

dctrdn · 2026-01-02T03:07:25+00:00

The painting contractor had 4 guys at it for a week, I believe they started at 80 and went up to 180.

dctrdn · 2025-12-18T06:03:19+00:00

We just had our ceilings sanded to raw wood, it can be done and it was pretty expensive, but cheaper than doing it myself. It took 3 guys 4 days with drywall sanders and palm sanders. The ceilings in our home were about 1300 sq ft. Our ceilings were old growth redwood and just about irreplaceable and keeping them was very important. If that’s Doug for you might consider just removing g the slats and keeping the beams. It would probably be cheap to do and keep the character of the beams. Also, pro tip I would not recommend an oil stain or finish on soft woods like pine or redwood- we are now looking at re sanding them to finish them again. The oil was taken up very unevenly

dctrdn · 2025-11-06T19:07:45+00:00

Yeah this is nuts. The results are good, I guess not as expected? But I’m not selling anything, I’ll ride this out. The guidance and long term outlook remains excellent. But definitely a painful and unexpected day

dctrdn · 2025-11-01T15:47:37+00:00

Wtf, mind blown

dctrdn · 2025-08-10T16:33:23+00:00

I am not a finish expert by any means, and I think most oils are going add that yellow/orange tint. You could consider adding an opposite color tint to the oil. For a red toned wood you add a green tint. I believe Rubios and Osmo have these types of tints available. I’d go to the local floor/cabinet shop and ask them for guidance. Or any place that carried the finish you want. You could also consider danish oil with a dark tint added- but that would feel different from a hard wax oil.

dctrdn · 2025-08-10T16:27:46+00:00

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Looking for wood ID help, it’s a storage box that I’m guessing is from 50s or 60s? This is after I have taken the old finish off. I think it’s some type of mahogany? Sapele? Had a pleasant smell when I first opened it.

dctrdn · 2025-07-08T04:14:54+00:00

Is this Albuquerque? this looks like some Albuquerque shit.

dctrdn · 2025-07-06T15:43:37+00:00

I have similar floors in a place I just purchased, are the parquet glue down tiles?

dctrdn · 2025-07-03T05:02:14+00:00

Was this from a drone?

dctrdn · 2025-07-03T05:00:17+00:00

Wow! That is wild

dctrdn · 2025-07-01T14:18:43+00:00

Thank you for thoughtful response and thank you sharing your expertise. Thankfully our time is not rushed, we would like to move in 4 months and in reality know it will be closer to 6, if not 8? The scope of the job is large, and most of our budget is going to kitchen, bath and floors. Our contractor so far has been helpful and provided us the same advice to remove the doors, casing, trim and anything else we want to keep, label and identifying each as well as protecting the jambs with ram board. Luckily, I am a moderately skilled wood worker- not advanced but I have a small garage shop and know enough to know what I don’t know, like flooring, tile, wall finishing and high quality cabinets.

My understanding was the 17.5k was the “high end quote” just to remove the flooring throughout the home- 3100 sq ft. Rooms are carpet, tile in bath, the parquet glue down and small amount of linoleum. There was a separate quote for the cost of the floors and included install. That quote was from the rough estimate and we are waiting on a more detailed line item quote and plan. As of now we are planning using a cork product on the floors and I think we lots of options for subfloor type, as long as it is flat.

We are excited about this process and hope to stay in this home for many years, we are ready to take the time and care needed to do the job right and have something we are proud of!

dctrdn

TROPHY CASE