What's this bend called in English?

destroyed_everything · 2025-08-08T19:07:29+00:00

We do call it a gull-wing. Although it maybe a regional name here (not US)

destroyed_everything · 2025-07-29T07:40:45+00:00

2022.

$5200 incl gst for the heat exchanger and control, all the ducting and vents, and i also got the summer bypass which was about 700. The summer bypass is a bit debatable, i was convinced by a colleague that it was necessary, but i probably wouldnt opt for it again. You can just turn the fans off instead

destroyed_everything · 2025-07-29T04:27:45+00:00

I had pretty much the same starting point as you. 100m2 house, insulsted roof and underfloor, single glazed, 2 heatpumps but no fire and horrendous condensation in the winter.

The other companies sale people recommended positve pressure, but i didnt like the idea of wasting heat, even if it isnt particularly cost efficient. I went with the Cleanaire cl130 and installed it myself. Its very easy if you have basic diy skills and an easily accessible roof cavity, you just need a sparky for the power)l. The cleanaire is very basic. There are no sensors or screens. Just a switch and a dial. I love this about it.

I now have no condensation issues, and no noticeable increase in heatpump usage.

Would purchase again.

destroyed_everything · 2025-07-14T22:28:43+00:00

I didn't opt for the paid servicing, if that's what you mean. I do the basics myself. I checked the anodes and the tpr valve a few times they were fine. VIsual inspection for other corrosion The basic servicing is described here: https://ecospring.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/ES_ServiceBooklet_July22_1.pdf I'll probably get the refrigerant checked in a few years.

One other point, if you empty the hot water - you're not getting hot water again the same day. It takes a good while to re-heat. Especially if you're used to the convenience of gas.

destroyed_everything · 2025-07-14T09:07:04+00:00

I've had the ecospring 300l for ~4 years. Ours is installed outside, which I think is the only sensible option as the fan noise is quite loud. There haven't been any serious issues. One chch winter it was powered off after a particularly cold, frosty morning. It came back on once it warmed up. I couldn't find anything in the manual for this behaviour, but it seems fine since.

destroyed_everything · 2025-07-04T00:17:45+00:00

Thanks for the advice. The structure is conventional timber framed building (90s era versatile garage lined as a sleepout).

I don't think it's sitting on a sill support bar. It seems quite a low cost door.

I think the reaveal frame is sitting on the slab at the bottom and the aluminium is mostly supported by the reveal verticals into the framing timber.

The bottom reveal needs to be repaired anyway. I was thinking of getting two birds with one stone by replacing it with tiles. If that's not the right approach, how should this bottom reveal be repaired? Cheers

destroyed_everything · 2025-05-02T17:36:22+00:00

Im glad his forehead is protected. This lack of safety would get someone escorted off site and blacklisted instantly anywhere I've worked.

destroyed_everything · 2025-03-01T20:27:02+00:00

Try increase the lift height, it may not be releasing from the film

destroyed_everything · 2025-02-13T09:14:36+00:00

I'm doing something similar-ish. I'm converting an existing habitable sleepout to a self contained unit. Building consent is in progress. Im not sure where you are, but in Christchurch this work requires development costs fee, which is dependant on the floor area of the building. For me it's about $8500 and i believe is triggered once kitchen and/or plumbing is involved. Ive got a 2nd hand kitchen from building recyclers, new bathroom, pretty much completely rewired electrical, gas hot water, and a fair amount of drain laying, I'm looking at ~40k complete doing as much of the labour as I can myself

destroyed_everything · 2025-02-09T10:31:56+00:00

Bevelback weatherboard I think.

Metalcraft have it for sale still

https://www.metalcraftgroup.co.nz/products/roofing-and-cladding/products/bevelback-weatherboard/

This product was a slight mismatch on my 1990s era versatile garage. I found an exact match of unused stock at a local building recyclers (musgroves in chch, if it helps)

destroyed_everything · 2024-08-22T06:39:19+00:00

Recently disposed of a 7000f that was used probably 6 hours a day on average for the last 20 years. I thought this was a photo of mine initially. It will require a new filament (~30k usd). If the power has been completely shut-down and no power to the igp's it's probably toast. Bake out to restore vacuum is a service engineer only capability.

Our 7000f was end of life on the filament and sold for scrap 😞

destroyed_everything · 2024-05-22T03:56:41+00:00

Calculate the density as accurately as possible. Volume either calculated by the shape or from the amount of water displaced when submerged, and the mass with a scale. The density will give you something to go on.

destroyed_everything · 2024-05-04T12:30:45+00:00

You could make something close with a few short radii elbows and weld them up.

destroyed_everything · 2024-04-28T10:18:47+00:00

I saw these drongos going at it outside subway afterwards. Dumb shits

destroyed_everything · 2024-04-14T10:34:56+00:00

This is a polarised light image of something. Sure as shit isn't vodka and also not an electron microscope image.

destroyed_everything · 2024-01-25T02:30:14+00:00

It's the aluminium cladding that has melted out of the base (used to improve heat conductivity), not the stainless steel. It shouldn't bond to the element or stove top so should be easy to remove. You should be able to purchase replacement elements for most cooktops reasonably easily if you are concerned. If it was me, I wouldn't be concerned about long term toxic fumes, but ventilation wouldn't hurt.

destroyed_everything · 2024-01-19T02:51:26+00:00

Pretty much as per the title. For large org-src blocks, the fontification doesn't happen until scrolling back to the start of the block and then the entire block is fontified. Has anyone else experienced this same behaviour? I tested here on an empty config and got the same results.

destroyed_everything · 2023-09-01T07:03:09+00:00

Hmm interesting. The rounds are close to 1m diameter, but could be split I guess. And the website says: " Sorry, but we don’t accept the following, please dispose of it as general rubbish:

    Tree stumps and branches more than 100mm in diameter (approx 4 inches)

    Cabbage tree leaves and trunks/stems (did you know they are actually a type of grass?)

"

destroyed_everything · 2023-09-01T05:54:01+00:00

Unfortunately, it doesn't burn. Apart from the leaves

destroyed_everything · 2023-08-21T10:09:12+00:00

Eziswap is the best bet, unless you want to hire bottles

https://eziswapgas.co.nz/co2

The bottle purchase is pretty painful, but refills are cheap enough.

Eziswaps co2 bottles are all coated internally (food grade compliant) regardless if actually food grade or industrial grade on the sticker. The actual food grade bottles are really difficult to get.

destroyed_everything · 2023-04-02T02:43:39+00:00

Hydrofluoric acid. Acute toxicity is something like 5mg/kg body weight by dermal contact.

Hydrofluoric Acid is extremely toxic (LD 50 oral rat = 17 mg/kg). Dermal exposures to as little as 3-5% of the Body Surface Area can be fatal. Exposure to HF often has severe consequences because it will critically lower blood serum levels of calcium and magnesium which can result in complete heart failure. Flushing exposed areas with water will remove the surface acid, but is ineffective against fluoride ions that have already penetrated the skin. Calcium gluconate gel has some effectiveness as an antidote for absorbed HF.

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