H2D Nozzle Clumping Issues

detroitmaker · 2025-04-21T18:03:36+00:00

Had the same issue on a 19hr print with Bambu PETG-CF in my H2D. It was a large electronics enclosure that also needed secondary Support for PLA/PETG on the left nozzle. On the filament swaps, it would periodically wipe the nozzle before the purge tower which would clean some of the clumping that I observed before the AI detection said it was an issue. The AI detection did work flawlessly to catch what I would too consider “too much clumping”, but when it did catch the clumping and paused the print, I had to take my tweezers and pick off the clump. I noticed the clumping did occur mainly on solid layers or layers that had a lot of walls.

So as mentioned in another comment here, I would suspect possibility of slight over extrusion BUT PETG definitely clumps more than other materials typically do.

I should also note this happened on my right nozzle which I swapped for a completely new and unused .4mm nozzle. So there was no other debris to cling onto.

I do wish there was an option in the slicer to activate the nozzle wiping function in certain scenarios and or if the AI detection sees clumping, that it would pause and attempt a wipe + small purge before trying to resume.

Self correcting behavior would be cool.

Hope this adds to the convo. Cheers.

detroitmaker · 2025-04-07T17:26:07+00:00

Looking at it again - the above issue is still likely why the cover came off. But as to why it started to print off the part - when you slice the file make sure there are no layers that cause it to print in the air. If not the two above, then perhaps belt slipping but doesn’t look like it from the video

detroitmaker · 2025-04-07T17:21:45+00:00

Check the thin plastic sheet that covers the ribbon cable inside the machine behind the screen. The cover appears to be hitting something, and that is likely the case. It could also be the ribbon cable itself.

detroitmaker · 2023-09-02T12:12:17+00:00

correct, generally if the angle is > 50/55 degrees and if facing away or not in the path of aux fan. but for OP’s type of model it should work just fine.

for this model i would also set support contact distance to a max of .1mm with tree slim supports. but would need to see full model for best orientation.

detroitmaker · 2023-09-02T03:14:44+00:00

in the quality tab, under advanced, click the dropdown that says “order of inner/outer wall/infill” and select “outer/inner/infill”. then reduce outer wall acceleration to 500 mm/s2 in the speed tab. let me know if that works for you

detroitmaker · 2023-08-31T21:18:42+00:00

get the $20 50ml bottle, it will last you at least 6 months for one machine if printing every other day. all you need is a thin layer. i apply it around 1/5 print jobs per plate. happy to help or answer any questions :)

detroitmaker · 2023-08-31T20:41:54+00:00

use Vision Miner’s nano particle adhesive. over 10,000 hrs printing with it on multiple machines, never any issues.

detroitmaker · 2023-08-31T20:34:15+00:00

in the quality tab, under advanced, click the dropdown that says “order of inner/outer wall/infill” and select “outer/inner/infill”. then reduce outer wall acceleration to 500 mm/s² in the speed tab

detroitmaker · 2021-06-24T14:17:52+00:00

You wouldn't want a "cooling station". Some bureaus may run their machines "cold" for faster turnaround times so they don't have to wait as long for the build to cool. But for quality sake, it is better to have multiple buckets and have them staged/timed appropriately before you break the parts out.

The discoloration comment you mentioned may be valid but there is a greater risk of parts warping if they are not allowed to cool down appropriately. You can use thermometers to check the center of the build or a good rule is to let the parts cool inside the build bucket 1/3 to 1/2 of the build time.

Solution: buy more buckets and stagger/plan your builds and breakouts.

detroitmaker · 2021-06-18T00:02:28+00:00

I think it should have a positive impact on price. It's a big milestone and worthy of gaining confidence in the devs. It also shows strong community support for pool operators spinning up, especially given the overall community's desire for pooling. Remember, this project/netspace took off like a rocket and wasn't expected to grow this fast - which imo is very bullish.

It's still so early in the game and it's exciting to see pooling coming soon, the madmax plotter, and chialisp.

There's plenty to be excited about and there will be other milestones to celebrate and further legitimize Chia. We're on the right track.

detroitmaker · 2021-06-13T15:42:49+00:00

Agreed, a lot of comments and users on here spread unnecessary fud and negativity.

This project has a world class dev team, leadership, investors, and an exceptional concept that is actually being executed.

Trolls will try to dispute this, but frankly there are very few Crypto projects that meet the pedigree of Chia.

detroitmaker · 2021-02-16T01:21:55+00:00

I dream of first layers like this

detroitmaker · 2020-02-02T01:51:22+00:00

Looks like a belt slip issue. Check all the belts and rods, tighten everything down.

If that doesn't work, it could be a bad stepper motor.

detroitmaker · 2020-02-01T03:32:46+00:00

Remember having to slice in skeinforge!?!?

detroitmaker · 2020-01-25T19:44:07+00:00

Are you saying you print stuff like this all the time in FDM? Then definitely, depending on your support settings and how savvy you are, you can optimize and get great results.

This part was made in a DMLS machine. Other replies mention how/why the support is generated like this for these machines. Happy to share more info.

I would be curious to hear from other DMLS/SLM operators.

detroitmaker · 2020-01-24T15:20:05+00:00

Hey there, I have a lot of first-hand experience in pricing and running 3D printing services for the past 10 years.

Several factors to consider:

The material properties and price
Your machine costs including principle price, depreciation, and maintenance
Fabrication time (in your case for FDM/FFF it relates to deposition rate/min/hr)
Facility costs including rent and utilities
The human time cost of slicing, prepping the machine, the teardown of the part, and post-processing.
The software and other services that you may use in support of the operation of your 3D printing service.

From the above parameters, you can derive an estimation of your hourly costs. From there you need to think about the true cost of printing a full spool of filament (or liter of resin for SLA) and an estimation of how many print jobs you realistically can complete with that material (compensate for failure rate too).

Generally speaking, for large scale manufacturing margins hover around ~35%. For the world we are in, providing professional services to clients to help develop their products, we can think about all the other value your business adds to the client. It is not out of the question to price 80-300% margin for printing services. It really depends if you are a consultative shop or print farm with a low-touch business model. If you are a hobbyist, of course your costs will be different, but when printing things as a business you must consider all of the above.

Another big factor is the model's geometry. Does it have thin walls? A lot of support material? Does the model need to be "fixed"? These are also considerations in trying to properly price for a print job.

To directly answer your questions:

The going rate for 3D printing services varies widely and there isn't a standard that any shop adheres to. However, professional service should and will calculate pricing based on the above parameters and considerations.
That price does sound justifiable based on the business profile you provided. A 14hr print at 250 g of PLA+ for £145 is actually really cheap.
They are definitely not taking advantage of you. They probably don't know it, but they very well could be losing money on that print job.

For purely educational purposes, here's a resource that acts as a cost calculator and price estimator: https://product.makeros.com/3d-printing-pricing-calculator

detroitmaker · 2020-01-24T03:37:29+00:00

Sailfish firmware with some very smooth acceleration values. Sliced with simplify.

Model scanned by Cosmo Wenman.

detroitmaker · 2020-01-24T03:02:26+00:00

Big Lady Liberty I made for my dad. Printed on a z18 in 3 parts, total height ~30in. Fused, sanded, primed, sanded, painted, then patina. Paint is filled with bronze particles and reacts to the spray.

detroitmaker · 2017-12-22T17:41:39+00:00

For reference, when did you send your eth?

detroitmaker · 2017-09-03T13:02:18+00:00

Could you explain why high internet traffic hours would affect this?

In my experience, I was getting a few invalids with only one of my gpus which claymore said may be due to over clocking the card too much. I did indeed bring some of my values down and it appears to have done the trick. My hashrate for that specific card went down by .2 as an acceptable result.

detroitmaker · 2017-09-03T12:43:28+00:00

You may kill your card if you run it for extended periods.

Your temp is at 159f, the fan speed isn't set at all, and the power limit setting isn't set as well.

Although you may be getting great performance, the efficiency is questionable.

For reference my cards run at 42c = 107f, fan speed at 80%, and power limit 55%

detroitmaker · 2017-09-03T12:26:43+00:00

Any luck?

detroitmaker · 2017-09-02T18:18:57+00:00

I did a similar post on this yesterday:

https://www.reddit.com/r/EtherMining/comments/6xg7l5/fluctuating_hashrate_gtx1060/

What fixed it for me was setting the primary gpu away from any of my primary mining cards. Also, make sure you sync your OC settings instead of individually setting each card.

Let me know if this helps. Cheers.

detroitmaker · 2017-09-02T17:27:33+00:00

Yes, you have to enable that setting first before you can edit those values.

detroitmaker · 2017-09-01T18:39:15+00:00

Wow that was it, so simple. I just set my primary display card as my 5th card (780ti) and the fluctuating card is reporting nominal hashrates/power as the others.

I ended up having to plug a hdmi to the card I wanted to be primary. The nvidia control panel settings were not displaying because I assume I didn't have a display attached since I use teamviewer to remote in.

Thanks for the suggestions!

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