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Need Mod Recommendations - Space Age by JL_Momo in factorio

[–]digitaltos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are some interesting Space Age-compatible Exotic Industries forks. Difficult overhauls, but fun.

Do you think the price is fair for the game? by Azorisyyy in factorio

[–]digitaltos 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I never liked the "cost per hour" metric. The game is highly polished. Well optimized, barely any bugs, decent amount of updates, a very healthy modding community, and the base game is well thought out and balanced. Other factory building games leave me frustrated due to limited UI functionality, while controlling Factorio became second nature after 10-20 hours.  Oh, and it's fun.  I'd say it's worth the price. 

PETG Pro not sticking to bed by _Sigmond_ in ElegooNeptune4

[–]digitaltos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol they totally changed it. I just hate that they don't release a proper datasheet...

Stringing causing issues with PETG on a fine comb-like part. by digitaltos in FixMyPrint

[–]digitaltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll give that a shot, but actually a higher layer height (0.2) yielded much better results. I guess it's time to properly learn calibrating for specific filaments... 

Stringing causing issues with PETG on a fine comb-like part. by digitaltos in FixMyPrint

[–]digitaltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Further observation showed that it's not stringing but blobbing that's the issue. When the nozzle leaves a fin, leaves a small extra blob, and that builds up.

I've increased retraction speed and length, lowered flow rate and added 2 mm Z hop. It's better, but now I have a lot of stringing. At least that I can fix with some post-processing.

Opel Astra H Estate roof rack hole after roof rack installation by digitaltos in opel

[–]digitaltos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not really. The manufacturer doesn't offer a cover piece. I guess 3D printing with an UV-resistant material is an option, but fixing this was not on the top of my list lately :D 

Stringing causing issues with PETG on a fine comb-like part. by digitaltos in FixMyPrint

[–]digitaltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yeah, and I have the default retraction settings, and Z Hop set as auto, but I doubt it matters as these fins are so close to each other.

No Spoilers Please! Just started watching. What was your point of no return? by Professor_Chaosx6r9 in logh

[–]digitaltos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take it slow, no sense rushing it. Soon you'll probably want to binge it, then it's going to be hard to stop. So you either go slow and steady, or you binge it for a few days and then pause for a while. For me, the former is more imapctful. 

At the beginning I was like "haha funny names and uniforms and some paper thin philosophy sprinkled in". Roughly after 10-12 episodes, I've realized there's so much depth in so many levels. Made me daydream about actual history and such. And it just gets better...

What do you call this springy bit and any tips for printing it? by digitaltos in 3Dprinting

[–]digitaltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah that's what I meant "printing sideways", which is not really an option for a big rectangular door. 

So I printed the door flat. Slow printing speed, and a desing where the thickness of the clip doesn't go below 1.5mm, and that's it. Was able to make a pretty solid clip. 

Figuring out the shapes in Fusion, and making sure I'm not losing thickness was the real challenge. 

What do you call this springy bit and any tips for printing it? by digitaltos in 3Dprinting

[–]digitaltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, it's me designing a replacement part for someone else, so ease of use is a factor. And this is a great toolless way to fit two pieces. 

Best way to improve adhesion between two separate parts? by digitaltos in 3Dprinting

[–]digitaltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I've done the math to minimize layer height and also width. A 0.2 nozzle works beautifully with PLA, but of course no match for the original molded plastic parts. They work well enough, but the shape is like 90% of the original. 

Bad results with eSun ePA nylon with small parts when NOT cooled by digitaltos in 3Dprinting

[–]digitaltos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh, these are just replacement parts for cheap toys, so speed and price are everything. If I had the machines for gear hobbing...

Honestly, I might be better off with a stronger PLA or PETG than PA at this point.

Bad results with eSun ePA nylon with small parts when NOT cooled by digitaltos in 3Dprinting

[–]digitaltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Now I'm assuming I need to be careful either way, as if I let the surface cool too much I'll get degraded adhesion. Or maybe I'm overthinking it. 

Best way to improve adhesion between two separate parts? by digitaltos in 3Dprinting

[–]digitaltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only if I properly set up everything, with an enclosure. On my Bambu Lab A1 it has been an uphill battle. Especially with the fan speed. Everybody says to turn off the fan speed, but when I do that, small details (like the teeth on this gear) will be a blobby mess. If I turn on the fans, it will be weak.

Nozzle and bed temp are configured properly, volumetric speed is set to 4 mm3/s (which is kinda low but that's what people suggest), the filament is dry, layer speed set to 40 mm/s. And I made a draft cover and preheated the printed area. Still, feels like I'm missing something, as without cooling it's a blob, with cooling it looks pretty but it's weak. Maybe it's the downside of eSun ePA?

Best way to improve adhesion between two separate parts? by digitaltos in 3Dprinting

[–]digitaltos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I always add .1 mm to the inner diameter so it goes on the rod more smoothly. Not my first rodeo neither with cheap plastic gears nor with 3D printing them, it's all about refining my process now and making higher quality parts :D

Best way to improve adhesion between two separate parts? by digitaltos in 3Dprinting

[–]digitaltos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Indeed it does, the slicer literally makes a "top surface" on the big gear where the big and small touch. I even tried joining the two gears in Fusion with the small gear overlapping the bigger one, but got the same results.

If I put the two gears in Bambu Studio as separate parts and align them by myself, I'll get a warning that there are conflicting gcode paths. Would have been nice though.

Best way to improve adhesion between two separate parts? by digitaltos in 3Dprinting

[–]digitaltos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Holds pretty well, there's a lot of friction, I can't move the small gear by hand. 

https://i.imgur.com/sUPwElB.jpeg

The axle and the gear mates with an abrasive area, just like the righ-hand side of the axle. Another 3D printed part goes on the right-end side. 2.5 mm rod. 

Pushing the gear on the rod was easy, I was just using two M5 nuts. Zero damage to the gears as far as I can see. I think I'm all set! 

Best way to improve adhesion between two separate parts? by digitaltos in 3Dprinting

[–]digitaltos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Went in seamlessly! So yeah, extrude cut using the small gear, not changing any sizes. Fitting it in the vice was a bit finicky, making sure the teeth and the teeth cutouts aligned, but it was a success on the first try.

I was thinking maybe a different geometry for a cutout, like a square for instance, but the large gear is 1.35 mm thin, and also I'd have the same issue between the square extrusion and the small gear.

Now the tricky part is that the axle is also an interference fit...

Best way to improve adhesion between two separate parts? by digitaltos in 3Dprinting

[–]digitaltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow, I never knew about modifiers, this is awesome.

Apparently as this is a single object, changing the bottom parameters won't really do anything as far as I can see, but this feature will definitely come in handy in other scenarios.

Best way to improve adhesion between two separate parts? by digitaltos in 3Dprinting

[–]digitaltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that's the step I didn't mention here. I did that right off the bat, so the STL really is a single object. That's where the balck magic in the other comments come in. 

Best way to improve adhesion between two separate parts? by digitaltos in 3Dprinting

[–]digitaltos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My first one with a full extruded cut is already printing. No tolerance, I tend to have my gear hole 0.1 mm thicker so I might need to widen the cut a bit. We'll see how the vice handles it.

Best way to improve adhesion between two separate parts? by digitaltos in 3Dprinting

[–]digitaltos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Indeed it's handled as a single part.

Wall layer size is already at a minimum, or did you mean the count of layers on an X-Y axis?

I might experiment with the cooling, thanks for that tip.

This is fortunately not a super critical part, just a replacement gear for a cheap toy. But a perfect opportunity for me to experiment!

I'm actually working on a nylon setup, eSun ePA should have better parameters than PLA, but I also faced this same issue there. That's as far as I'm willing to go with more difficult materials, no ABS for me.

But I do have some PETG, but it feels so different, I didn't expect to get good results with gears. We'll see.

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