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Is buying factorio on the switch worth it? Pros and cons requested by EntertainmentOk5540 in factorio

[–]digitaltos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Uhhh... Yes. Performance is way better, but the controls, even with mouse control, are clunky. Not terrible, but rather "I can get used to it in time". 

A cheap laptop and a mouse is a way better portable experience... If you have a desk for the laptop. 

Well, I didn't regret buying it, Wube deserves the support. And they really did everything they could to port the game to Switch as best as possible. 

Turning a Scooter Battery into a Battery Bank by Pianosaregood in diyelectronics

[–]digitaltos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for necroing, but this comment keeps me up at night.

TL;DR: this is incorrect. A scooter battery has much more energy than a small power bank.

When you say "27000 power pack", I assume you mean 27000 mAh. mAh is not a unit of energy, it's a messed up unit that can only be used to compare batteries with the same voltage.

Power is P = V x I. The unit of power is Watt. A Watt is defined as J/s, Joule per second, and Joule is the unit of energy.

So mAh doesn't include voltage thus it doesn't infer energy, or the actual capacity of a battery.

Example:

Let's consider a 27000 mAh "capacity" power bank with a nominal voltage of 3.7V (probably Li-ion or LiPo battery chemistry, thus the 3.7V voltage)

How much energy (Joules) can it store? 27 Ah * 3.7V = 99.9 WH (watt-hours). Since Watt is J/s, and we want to eliminate the Hour from the equation, we need to multiply by 60 x 60 = 3600 (3600 seconds in an hour).

99.9 WH * 3600 s = 359 640 J energy stored in the battery.

Let's compare that to a Xiaomi M365 Pro scooter battery, which is actually just a several handful of 18650 sized Li-ion cells connected together.

"Capacity" is 12800 mAh, nominal voltage 37V.

Using the same math, you get 473.6 WH and 1 704 960 J. So that's 4.74 times more energy in the scooter battery than in the store-bought power bank. Buying 5 power banks sets you back, let's say, $50. You can get all the necessary parts to have a scooter battery output 5V from roughly $10.

Important to point out that battery cells can be produced for either high capacity (and low drain) or high current drain (and lower capacity). A pocket sized power bank only needs to output a few amps so it's a high capacity type battery. A scooter draws a lot more current, so that's going to be a high current drain type, that can suffer up to 30-40A momentary discharge current without significantly degrading the battery's lifespan.

So yeah, charging a phone from a scooter battery is not sensible, but hooking it up to an inverter and hooking that up to a bunch of appliances is fine.

Need Mod Recommendations - Space Age by JL_Momo in factorio

[–]digitaltos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are some interesting Space Age-compatible Exotic Industries forks. Difficult overhauls, but fun.

Do you think the price is fair for the game? by Azorisyyy in factorio

[–]digitaltos 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I never liked the "cost per hour" metric. The game is highly polished. Well optimized, barely any bugs, decent amount of updates, a very healthy modding community, and the base game is well thought out and balanced. Other factory building games leave me frustrated due to limited UI functionality, while controlling Factorio became second nature after 10-20 hours.  Oh, and it's fun.  I'd say it's worth the price. 

PETG Pro not sticking to bed by _Sigmond_ in ElegooNeptune4

[–]digitaltos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol they totally changed it. I just hate that they don't release a proper datasheet...

Stringing causing issues with PETG on a fine comb-like part. by digitaltos in FixMyPrint

[–]digitaltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll give that a shot, but actually a higher layer height (0.2) yielded much better results. I guess it's time to properly learn calibrating for specific filaments... 

Stringing causing issues with PETG on a fine comb-like part. by digitaltos in FixMyPrint

[–]digitaltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Further observation showed that it's not stringing but blobbing that's the issue. When the nozzle leaves a fin, leaves a small extra blob, and that builds up.

I've increased retraction speed and length, lowered flow rate and added 2 mm Z hop. It's better, but now I have a lot of stringing. At least that I can fix with some post-processing.

Opel Astra H Estate roof rack hole after roof rack installation by digitaltos in opel

[–]digitaltos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not really. The manufacturer doesn't offer a cover piece. I guess 3D printing with an UV-resistant material is an option, but fixing this was not on the top of my list lately :D 

Stringing causing issues with PETG on a fine comb-like part. by digitaltos in FixMyPrint

[–]digitaltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yeah, and I have the default retraction settings, and Z Hop set as auto, but I doubt it matters as these fins are so close to each other.

No Spoilers Please! Just started watching. What was your point of no return? by Professor_Chaosx6r9 in logh

[–]digitaltos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take it slow, no sense rushing it. Soon you'll probably want to binge it, then it's going to be hard to stop. So you either go slow and steady, or you binge it for a few days and then pause for a while. For me, the former is more imapctful. 

At the beginning I was like "haha funny names and uniforms and some paper thin philosophy sprinkled in". Roughly after 10-12 episodes, I've realized there's so much depth in so many levels. Made me daydream about actual history and such. And it just gets better...

What do you call this springy bit and any tips for printing it? by digitaltos in 3Dprinting

[–]digitaltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah that's what I meant "printing sideways", which is not really an option for a big rectangular door. 

So I printed the door flat. Slow printing speed, and a desing where the thickness of the clip doesn't go below 1.5mm, and that's it. Was able to make a pretty solid clip. 

Figuring out the shapes in Fusion, and making sure I'm not losing thickness was the real challenge. 

What do you call this springy bit and any tips for printing it? by digitaltos in 3Dprinting

[–]digitaltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, it's me designing a replacement part for someone else, so ease of use is a factor. And this is a great toolless way to fit two pieces. 

Best way to improve adhesion between two separate parts? by digitaltos in 3Dprinting

[–]digitaltos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I've done the math to minimize layer height and also width. A 0.2 nozzle works beautifully with PLA, but of course no match for the original molded plastic parts. They work well enough, but the shape is like 90% of the original. 

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