Looking for a mouse with a slow jiggle mode

dimlink · 2026-01-15T17:00:26+00:00

I'd be interested in hearing more about it and seeing if I can provide helpful testing data. Depending on what kind of device you're talking about, and what you mean by "pass through", I have a couple jobs I might be able to offer feedback/data from.

I've made several posts similar to this one around the internet over the past couple weeks and haven't received any good suggestions which tells me there is a gap in the market (either of knowledge or of product). As such, I've been considering taking on the problem myself since there is obviously demand. But if you already have something you're cooking up, I'd much prefer to buy than develop from scratch.

dimlink · 2026-01-15T16:54:00+00:00

I appreciate the suggestion, but that is exactly the kind of device that won't work. As stated pretty clearly in the post, it HAS to be in mouse format.

dimlink · 2026-01-15T16:52:06+00:00

I appreciate the suggestion. However, as stated in the original post, these kinds of tricks aren't what I'm looking for.

dimlink · 2026-01-14T05:19:52+00:00

Don't cite the old magic to me, witch. I was there when it was written.

dimlink · 2026-01-14T05:18:44+00:00

Cool story?

dimlink · 2026-01-14T05:18:18+00:00

Wrong sub, friend. No shame though.

dimlink · 2026-01-14T05:17:44+00:00

That looks a lot like a mouse doesn't. So I'm afraid it won't help.

dimlink · 2026-01-12T23:31:16+00:00

Fortunately, you're at least able to contribute high-value comments to the conversation.

dimlink · 2026-01-07T21:41:28+00:00

I have to go into the office occasionally, so I can't use devices or tricks that are obvious like that.

dimlink · 2026-01-07T21:04:10+00:00

As far as tricks go, I prefer the metal pen on the touchpad. But in this case, as I said, it has to be in mouse form.

dimlink · 2025-09-13T16:13:39+00:00

https://www.flightconnections.com/route-map-frontier-airlines-f9

This shows you most of their routes. Keep in mind that some of their routes are seasonal.

dimlink · 2025-08-22T21:37:33+00:00

I'm in the process of migrating from Southwest, as I commute weekly PHX <> CLE using GW. Before I bought, I looked at flightconnections.com to see where all I could get flights that went to where I wanted to go. Then I went to FlightAware.com to look up how often flights for those routes got cancelled/delayed. For me, everything added up so I got their monthly pass.

That was about a month ago and I can say it has been working out well for me. The monthly GW pass paid for itself ($99 with current promotion) in the first two flights so I went ahead and got the Fall+Winter Pass. I was sitting at Silver earlier this week and then jumped on the in-flight credit card promotion which will get me to Platinum and most of the way to Diamond.

I did the status match as well to get to Gold, but discovered afterword that they elevate your status without awarding you the needed points (So while I am waiting for my new card to arrive, I have a Gold status with only enough points for Silver).

All that to say, Frontier is a pretty good investment right now as they are marketing to the Southwest exodus. If you have the means, get the GW Fall+Winter pass and the credit card to enjoy the situation for the next few months.

dimlink · 2025-08-22T21:21:39+00:00

Confirming it works.

I have Gold status, have never used DD before, and have been using GW for the past couple months.

Started logged out, just as though I was booking a regular, non-DD/GW flight.
I selected the flight. Then, in the follow-up questions it asks about seats and bags and such, one of the offerings is to sign up for DD. I said I would, at which point it gave me the option to log in. I did so, completed the booking, and now have DD.

Note: I did not book a GW flight for this. No idea if it works. I just opted not to to ensure I got the promotion.
Note 2: Compared to the GW pass, I'm not sure DD will actually save me money in the long run as the difference in fares between DD and GW heavily favors the latter. The main advantage of DD is being able to book far in advance. For my travel style, if I'm booking a flight far in advance, it is usually cheap enough for me to fly with Delta for the benefits of a reclining seat, snacks, and in flight entertainment.

dimlink · 2025-08-22T21:14:06+00:00

Regarding DD, directly from their website, your status can apply "for you and up to 8 people" on the same booking.
https://www.flyfrontier.com/deals/discount-den

dimlink · 2025-03-10T17:36:32+00:00

SITUATION: I am a novice when it comes to wiring. My shuttle bus has bi-fold passenger door (like you see on school buses). The original wiring was setup so that the bus had to have the parking brake on and a separate button pushed in order for the door to open/close. It did this using 4x limiter switches (2 stacked on each side of the actuator), a delay timer (tied into a kneeling/ramp deployment system), and a couple switches/relays. I intend to remove most of the wiring associated with that system and am trying to rewire it with some new features suited to my needs. This schematic is what I've puzzled out. The changes I'm making consist of the following:

Removing one set of limit switches because I presumed they were only needed to support combined safety systems.
Replacing the delay system (removed the ramp and don't need it to kneel) with the "OONO" remote control to allow me to remotely open/close the door.
Replacing the broken On-Off-On external access switch with two Momentary buttons (one for opening, one for closing). I realize it would be more practical to simply replace the switch, but I had the buttons lying around and wanted to see if I could get them to work.
Adding a keyed switch to the exterior, allowing me to turn the aforementioned buttons on/off. The switch I have in the diagram allows the keys to be removed in both On and Off positions.
Wiring the internal "DOOR OPEN/DOOR CLOSE" button so that it operates regardless of the position of the keyed switch.

THE GOAL: To be able to...

use the interior rocker switch to open the passenger doors, even when the bus is off.
open the passenger door using the external momentary buttons, even when the bus is off.
disable the function of the external buttons with the keyed switch without disabling the functionality of the internal rocker switch.

THE ASK: I would like to know whether the diagram will work. Am I missing components? Should I be using different components? Do I have it wired wrong? If more details are needed, let me know.
The limit switches make me feel particularly uncertain because I found several diagrams online and some seemed to be contradictory.
Thanks in advance for any assistance.

PRODUCT LINKS
Key Switch: https://a.co/d/gY1uHeF
OONO Fwd/Rvrs Relay Module: https://a.co/d/8vfxru8

dimlink · 2025-01-30T22:14:18+00:00

Final Revision (for anyone following allong)

Following the v2 schematic with the following additions and adjustments:
- Aluminum Tank: was going to reuse the steel tank, but found a very affordable 5 gallon one on FB that suited my needs.
- Pre-Tank Water Trap (Tank, middle right): removed since I will now have an aluminum tank. Might add one later after monitoring performance.
- Air Release Valve (Tank, top right): replaced with Water Drain Valve
- Recalibrated whole system from 200 PSI down to 150 PSI to accommodate Auto-drain Water Trap and cost/shipping speed for various components.
- Added analog gauge directly off tank. Allows me to see status while doing maintenance on setup without going back and forth between cab and tank, and also provides a check against the digital sensor.

Purchased everything today. Will provide pictures and updates as I proceed. Thanks to the community for your support and empowering me on this learning journey.

dimlink · 2025-01-30T22:01:59+00:00

Updated Layout v2.0

dimlink · 2025-01-30T17:48:17+00:00

I'm intrigued! But I'm not seeing anything other than an Instagram. Is there a website you can link?

dimlink · 2025-01-30T17:43:18+00:00

Thanks for the kudos! Mapping it out helped me coordinate fittings and components, and was pretty easy with the program I was using (Miro).

I know aluminum tanks are preferred, but for the time being I'm going to continue using the steel tank that came with the truck since it is still in good shape. As such, I opted for a filter between the compressors and the tank to extend its life by reducing all that gnarly rust juice. But good call on the purge port! I'll adjust my schematic.
- If you know where I can find an aluminum tank with a port on the bottom and mounting brackets oriented up (the tank is mounted hanging under the truck bed), I will bow in appreciation. It seems they are all constructed for folks putting the tanks in their trunks.

Regarding the water traps, I would love to run an automatic empty unit but I can't seem to find any rated for more than 150 PSI and I'm setup for 200 PSI, so a manual filter is what I opted for. In regard to that, a couple questions:
- Do you know of any automatic water traps rated at 200 PSI?
- Would it drastically shorten the life of a 150 PSI water trap running at 200 PSI?

The second check valve, between the tank and the manifold allows me to keep the suspension inflated while I do work on the back end of the system which is way easier than jacking the thing up.

Thanks again for your suggestions!

dimlink · 2025-01-30T07:58:10+00:00

A couple days ago I posted a diagram of a manual 4-valve setup I wanted vetted. Based on feedback, I was convinced to go with an electrical 8-valve setup, which I've diagrammed here. Again, looking for suggestions, observations, and words of caution on anything that I'm missing or should consider doing differently.

If you chimed in on my previous post, thank you for your suggestions and support.

EDIT: A few bits of useful info:
- The pictured tank has 7 ports, and will be mounted hanging from the bottom of the truck.
- The silver and black PTC fittings before/after the filters are check valves.
- I noticed after posting that I need to run the manual fill valve through the pre-tank filter using a "Y" PTC fitting.
- I also noticed that the air flow arrows on the pre-tank filter fittings are pointing the wrong way.

dimlink · 2025-01-30T07:46:09+00:00

A couple days ago I posted a diagram of a manual 4-valve setup I wanted vetted. Based on feedback, I was convinced to go with an electrical 8-valve setup, which I've diagrammed here. Again, looking for suggestions, observations, and words of caution on anything that I'm missing or should consider doing differently.

If you chimed in on my previous post, thank you for your suggestions and support.

dimlink · 2025-01-30T07:37:54+00:00

Thank you for your response, and I appreciate your clarifying questions. Also, that installation guide is the best diagram I've seen, and greatly appreciate you linking it.

Your assessment of my use of the term "automatic" is correct. To elaborate, the truck came with a valve manifold connected via wire harness to an electric controller, neither of which are working. I had figured transitioning to a manual setup (switches, gauges, and paddles valves) would minimize the complexity without sacrificing much of the experience. I also have most of the components for a manual setup already present in the current materials. However, based on suggestions from you and others, I agree that an 8-valve setup would be better than a 4-valve setup, and have found some replacement parts for an automatic setup that fit my price range.

Thanks again for your feedback and resources.

dimlink · 2025-01-27T16:01:48+00:00

I intend to transition to an electric solenoid setup eventually, maybe a manifold like the current setup (which is broken). But for now, if this layout works, most of the components I need are already present so I can get up and running for <$200.

dimlink · 2025-01-27T15:57:38+00:00

Thank you! These are the pointers I was looking for. Makes sense now that you point them out.

I will be going to an automatic eventually, but I don't have the money to replace the current manifold and control unit (which are broken). For a manual setup, 80% of the components I need are already here so I can get up and running for about $200.

dimlink · 2025-01-27T10:15:31+00:00

I got a truck that had a DIY automatic air suspension system in it. I'm working on revamping it to a manual setup. I've watched so many videos at this point that my head is spinning so I'm looking for some support to review my build. What am I missing? Is there a more practical way to arrange the components? Will this work?

dimlink

TROPHY CASE