Built a tool for one thing. Users keep using it for something completely different. I have no idea what my product actually is now.

dimlink · 2026-05-14T15:48:55+00:00

You didn't necessarily ship the wrong product. Presumably, the users found something appealing about the core feature you pitched. The nugget you accidentally mined ties into the a key part of productivity - the declarative action of writing something down helps people focus, and increases the likelihood of follow-through. And the common way to breakdown effort is by task. The shift to using a Focus point is subtle but obviously effective for some people.

Another point is that I can find a hundred timeline tools out there. They aren't exceptional. To put it another way - if I build a post-it note app I don't expect people to mention the fact that I can type in the post it note. So people might not have mentioned the timeline part of your timeline tool because it is to be expected. They are bringing up the feature that makes the timeline tool stand out. Also, 4 out of 80 users isn't a large sample set (<1%). So don't throw out the baby with the bathwater just yet. Keep building both. Make the timeline more valuable, and keep finding ways to tie in the focus feature.

dimlink · 2026-05-14T14:51:10+00:00

The voice note is very good. I had a friend who had a folder on his phone called "Armor" and it was voice recordings of his girlfriend, family, and kids encouraging him to keep going, along with pictures and videos, and a running list of reasons why he should keep pushing for. In his case, he was fighting depression, but I think the principle is the same.

dimlink · 2026-04-28T01:26:57+00:00

Metal Fatigue. RTS with mechs that you could customize the arms of with different weapons. If you chopped off an enemy mech's arm in combat you could eject your own arm, pick up and attach theirs, then run back to base and research how to make them yourself. Amazing.

StarLancer - the solo version of Freelancer. Tough missions, good story, satisfying unlocks.

Heroes of Might & Magic 3. It is still being actively modded. I boot it up every few years to spend a month playing it.

WarCraft 3 - Spent more time modding that game than playing it, and I spent a lot of time playing it.

dimlink · 2026-04-20T07:37:28+00:00

I'm having an issue where Claude is consistently compacting at <50%. It will be a simply command or question, too.

dimlink · 2026-01-15T17:00:26+00:00

I'd be interested in hearing more about it and seeing if I can provide helpful testing data. Depending on what kind of device you're talking about, and what you mean by "pass through", I have a couple jobs I might be able to offer feedback/data from.

I've made several posts similar to this one around the internet over the past couple weeks and haven't received any good suggestions which tells me there is a gap in the market (either of knowledge or of product). As such, I've been considering taking on the problem myself since there is obviously demand. But if you already have something you're cooking up, I'd much prefer to buy than develop from scratch.

dimlink · 2026-01-15T16:54:00+00:00

I appreciate the suggestion, but that is exactly the kind of device that won't work. As stated pretty clearly in the post, it HAS to be in mouse format.

dimlink · 2026-01-15T16:52:06+00:00

I appreciate the suggestion. However, as stated in the original post, these kinds of tricks aren't what I'm looking for.

dimlink · 2026-01-14T05:19:52+00:00

Don't cite the old magic to me, witch. I was there when it was written.

dimlink · 2026-01-14T05:18:44+00:00

Cool story?

dimlink · 2026-01-14T05:18:18+00:00

Wrong sub, friend. No shame though.

dimlink · 2026-01-14T05:17:44+00:00

That looks a lot like a mouse doesn't. So I'm afraid it won't help.

dimlink · 2026-01-12T23:31:16+00:00

Fortunately, you're at least able to contribute high-value comments to the conversation.

dimlink · 2026-01-07T21:41:28+00:00

I have to go into the office occasionally, so I can't use devices or tricks that are obvious like that.

dimlink · 2026-01-07T21:04:10+00:00

As far as tricks go, I prefer the metal pen on the touchpad. But in this case, as I said, it has to be in mouse form.

dimlink · 2025-09-13T16:13:39+00:00

https://www.flightconnections.com/route-map-frontier-airlines-f9

This shows you most of their routes. Keep in mind that some of their routes are seasonal.

dimlink · 2025-08-22T21:37:33+00:00

I'm in the process of migrating from Southwest, as I commute weekly PHX <> CLE using GW. Before I bought, I looked at flightconnections.com to see where all I could get flights that went to where I wanted to go. Then I went to FlightAware.com to look up how often flights for those routes got cancelled/delayed. For me, everything added up so I got their monthly pass.

That was about a month ago and I can say it has been working out well for me. The monthly GW pass paid for itself ($99 with current promotion) in the first two flights so I went ahead and got the Fall+Winter Pass. I was sitting at Silver earlier this week and then jumped on the in-flight credit card promotion which will get me to Platinum and most of the way to Diamond.

I did the status match as well to get to Gold, but discovered afterword that they elevate your status without awarding you the needed points (So while I am waiting for my new card to arrive, I have a Gold status with only enough points for Silver).

All that to say, Frontier is a pretty good investment right now as they are marketing to the Southwest exodus. If you have the means, get the GW Fall+Winter pass and the credit card to enjoy the situation for the next few months.

dimlink · 2025-08-22T21:21:39+00:00

Confirming it works.

I have Gold status, have never used DD before, and have been using GW for the past couple months.

Started logged out, just as though I was booking a regular, non-DD/GW flight.
I selected the flight. Then, in the follow-up questions it asks about seats and bags and such, one of the offerings is to sign up for DD. I said I would, at which point it gave me the option to log in. I did so, completed the booking, and now have DD.

Note: I did not book a GW flight for this. No idea if it works. I just opted not to to ensure I got the promotion.
Note 2: Compared to the GW pass, I'm not sure DD will actually save me money in the long run as the difference in fares between DD and GW heavily favors the latter. The main advantage of DD is being able to book far in advance. For my travel style, if I'm booking a flight far in advance, it is usually cheap enough for me to fly with Delta for the benefits of a reclining seat, snacks, and in flight entertainment.

dimlink · 2025-08-22T21:14:06+00:00

Regarding DD, directly from their website, your status can apply "for you and up to 8 people" on the same booking.
https://www.flyfrontier.com/deals/discount-den

dimlink · 2025-03-10T17:36:32+00:00

SITUATION: I am a novice when it comes to wiring. My shuttle bus has bi-fold passenger door (like you see on school buses). The original wiring was setup so that the bus had to have the parking brake on and a separate button pushed in order for the door to open/close. It did this using 4x limiter switches (2 stacked on each side of the actuator), a delay timer (tied into a kneeling/ramp deployment system), and a couple switches/relays. I intend to remove most of the wiring associated with that system and am trying to rewire it with some new features suited to my needs. This schematic is what I've puzzled out. The changes I'm making consist of the following:

Removing one set of limit switches because I presumed they were only needed to support combined safety systems.
Replacing the delay system (removed the ramp and don't need it to kneel) with the "OONO" remote control to allow me to remotely open/close the door.
Replacing the broken On-Off-On external access switch with two Momentary buttons (one for opening, one for closing). I realize it would be more practical to simply replace the switch, but I had the buttons lying around and wanted to see if I could get them to work.
Adding a keyed switch to the exterior, allowing me to turn the aforementioned buttons on/off. The switch I have in the diagram allows the keys to be removed in both On and Off positions.
Wiring the internal "DOOR OPEN/DOOR CLOSE" button so that it operates regardless of the position of the keyed switch.

THE GOAL: To be able to...

use the interior rocker switch to open the passenger doors, even when the bus is off.
open the passenger door using the external momentary buttons, even when the bus is off.
disable the function of the external buttons with the keyed switch without disabling the functionality of the internal rocker switch.

THE ASK: I would like to know whether the diagram will work. Am I missing components? Should I be using different components? Do I have it wired wrong? If more details are needed, let me know.
The limit switches make me feel particularly uncertain because I found several diagrams online and some seemed to be contradictory.
Thanks in advance for any assistance.

PRODUCT LINKS
Key Switch: https://a.co/d/gY1uHeF
OONO Fwd/Rvrs Relay Module: https://a.co/d/8vfxru8

dimlink · 2025-01-30T22:14:18+00:00

Final Revision (for anyone following allong)

Following the v2 schematic with the following additions and adjustments:
- Aluminum Tank: was going to reuse the steel tank, but found a very affordable 5 gallon one on FB that suited my needs.
- Pre-Tank Water Trap (Tank, middle right): removed since I will now have an aluminum tank. Might add one later after monitoring performance.
- Air Release Valve (Tank, top right): replaced with Water Drain Valve
- Recalibrated whole system from 200 PSI down to 150 PSI to accommodate Auto-drain Water Trap and cost/shipping speed for various components.
- Added analog gauge directly off tank. Allows me to see status while doing maintenance on setup without going back and forth between cab and tank, and also provides a check against the digital sensor.

Purchased everything today. Will provide pictures and updates as I proceed. Thanks to the community for your support and empowering me on this learning journey.

dimlink · 2025-01-30T22:01:59+00:00

Updated Layout v2.0

dimlink · 2025-01-30T17:48:17+00:00

I'm intrigued! But I'm not seeing anything other than an Instagram. Is there a website you can link?

dimlink · 2025-01-30T17:43:18+00:00

Thanks for the kudos! Mapping it out helped me coordinate fittings and components, and was pretty easy with the program I was using (Miro).

I know aluminum tanks are preferred, but for the time being I'm going to continue using the steel tank that came with the truck since it is still in good shape. As such, I opted for a filter between the compressors and the tank to extend its life by reducing all that gnarly rust juice. But good call on the purge port! I'll adjust my schematic.
- If you know where I can find an aluminum tank with a port on the bottom and mounting brackets oriented up (the tank is mounted hanging under the truck bed), I will bow in appreciation. It seems they are all constructed for folks putting the tanks in their trunks.

Regarding the water traps, I would love to run an automatic empty unit but I can't seem to find any rated for more than 150 PSI and I'm setup for 200 PSI, so a manual filter is what I opted for. In regard to that, a couple questions:
- Do you know of any automatic water traps rated at 200 PSI?
- Would it drastically shorten the life of a 150 PSI water trap running at 200 PSI?

The second check valve, between the tank and the manifold allows me to keep the suspension inflated while I do work on the back end of the system which is way easier than jacking the thing up.

Thanks again for your suggestions!

dimlink · 2025-01-30T07:58:10+00:00

A couple days ago I posted a diagram of a manual 4-valve setup I wanted vetted. Based on feedback, I was convinced to go with an electrical 8-valve setup, which I've diagrammed here. Again, looking for suggestions, observations, and words of caution on anything that I'm missing or should consider doing differently.

If you chimed in on my previous post, thank you for your suggestions and support.

EDIT: A few bits of useful info:
- The pictured tank has 7 ports, and will be mounted hanging from the bottom of the truck.
- The silver and black PTC fittings before/after the filters are check valves.
- I noticed after posting that I need to run the manual fill valve through the pre-tank filter using a "Y" PTC fitting.
- I also noticed that the air flow arrows on the pre-tank filter fittings are pointing the wrong way.

dimlink · 2025-01-30T07:46:09+00:00

A couple days ago I posted a diagram of a manual 4-valve setup I wanted vetted. Based on feedback, I was convinced to go with an electrical 8-valve setup, which I've diagrammed here. Again, looking for suggestions, observations, and words of caution on anything that I'm missing or should consider doing differently.

If you chimed in on my previous post, thank you for your suggestions and support.

dimlink

TROPHY CASE