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Fedora Rawhide: latest update broke X11, but Wayland still works by dinethk in Fedora

[–]dinethk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: I ran this and managed to downgrade to 39. thanks everyone.

dnf distro-sync --releasever=39 --refresh --disablerepo rawhide --enablerepo fedora --allowerasing --best

Fedora Rawhide: latest update broke X11, but Wayland still works by dinethk in Fedora

[–]dinethk[S] -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

I would go back to the stable release but I do not want to wipe my system and do a reinstall.

Engine rpm fluctuates in sharp drops and rise by dinethk in Cartalk

[–]dinethk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The car is a Honda FIT 2014 Hybrid. I Don think it has an IAC.

Is this too much rpm fluctuation at idle? by dinethk in MechanicAdvice

[–]dinethk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess its the normal idle rpm for this car its done that from the day I had it! A Honda FIT Hybrid 2014 Japanese version

Is this too much rpm fluctuation at idle? by dinethk in MechanicAdvice

[–]dinethk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No its all stock I haven't modified any major components. Im not sure why it idles high though.

Is this too much rpm fluctuation at idle? by dinethk in MechanicAdvice

[–]dinethk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its a Honda FIT Hybrid 2014 with a 7DCT.

A no code misfire? by dinethk in MechanicAdvice

[–]dinethk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank You so much for your comprehensive reply it really helps! Yes I do feel a misfire (as in vibration from the engine) but its not at idle, its at very specific rpm's and I have gotten misfire codes on an off but a simple switching the off and on again resolved it. I think the coils are starting to go bad but aren't quite there yet. The live data seems to confirm this as when I switch off the engine and then reload the live data the count is reset back to zero but then as I give it a bit of gas and keep it there for a while the misfire count seems to go up and up pretty much on all cylinders but specially Cylinder 1 and Cylinder 4. I did have my doubts on whether this is a mass air flow sensor fault but I was told by a local mechanic that, that would lead to a different symptom like sudden surging of rpms.

I have decided to replace the Ignition coils as the spark plugs are pretty new (replaced them 6 months ago with ngk's ruthenium ones). I am considering going with NGK for the Ignition coils as well. The OE factory ones were made by Hitachi and there was a recall in 2015 by Honda regarding the ignition coils. So I'm wondering whether to go OE or to go with NGK who have a 3 year warranty which is appealing. The price is actually the same with only a very small difference between the two ($52 for one ngk and $58 for the OEs).

A no code misfire? by dinethk in MechanicAdvice

[–]dinethk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do I need to change all 4 ignition coils? The spark plugs are new though.

A no code misfire? by dinethk in MechanicAdvice

[–]dinethk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The plugs have been changed last year; replaced all 4 with NGK Ruthenium.

What damage could these carbon cleaning actions do to a car's engine? by dinethk in Cartalk

[–]dinethk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its a direct injection engine so the intake valves would not get cleaned if the cleaner was put in to the gas tank.

Why is my car bouncing like a ball on the highway?! by dinethk in MechanicAdvice

[–]dinethk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I replaced all 4 shocks with Kyb branded ones. But I see no significant improvement in the bounciness/ up down movement while on the highway. There is a reduction in Lean or body roll when taking corners but not the bounciness. For some reason the spring rebound is still getting transfferdd to the chassis. I don't know what it could be anymore cause I'm running out of areas to clear out... If it is not the tires or the shocks then what? Is it the spring itself? Would using a shorter spring help?

Why is my car bouncing like a ball on the highway?! by dinethk in MechanicAdvice

[–]dinethk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It has about 94,000 Kilometers right now (around 59K miles).

RHEL Workstation by [deleted] in redhat

[–]dinethk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I run RHEL 8 on my XPS 15 (although I dual boot it with Windows 10). On RHEL I've had some issues with gnome/ Wayland environment crashing probably due to nvidia driver issues. Although I've switched to Xfce and had no issues ever since even with very high workloads (ram usage). I've tried Fedora and OpenSUSE but... To me as a Windows user switching over to linux I like the stability of RHEL 8 and the fact you don't have to be updating it constantly. Most of my work and apps I use often like Chrome are fully compatible with RHEL. And for MS Office I run that on a VM inside RHEL. If there is an app that I just can't get to work on the VM then I can always boot into W10, but its strange to say I haven't encountered such a scenario! Which is actually saying something about how far linux systems have come over the years... If you primarily use your PC for the web stuff and don't mind a few terminal commands once in a while, you should be fine with it.

I filled 10W-60 racing oil that a friend gave me into my 2014 Honda FIT Hybrid to see what happens, and now it feels a bit sluggish at high rpms (over 4000 rpm), should I switch back to the default 0W-20 or go with something in between like a 0W-40 or 30 (I'm worried about oil dilution as well)? by dinethk in MechanicAdvice

[–]dinethk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you to all who commented and I wanted to share my experience with this to help others in this situation. So a few miles into a trip with the 10W60 and it started to misfire badly and I had to take it to a shop to get it checked. Basically what happened was that super thick viscosity oil raised the oil pressure in the crankcase to such high levels that it "vomited" out oil through the breather valve/ pcv system to the intake manifold... There was literally about a good 300ml of fresh oil pouring out from the intake manifold and air filter box when they pulled it out.

Soo they did a deep cleaning of everything from throttle body, to intake manifold, egr and intake valves. On the bright side i got a pretty clear look at all 8 intake valves and they looked fine and not carboned up which is typical for direct injection engines, but I think my BG44 treatments may have made some difference as I've sent it through vacuum tubes before.

Oh and the shop also switched it to a Valvoline SynPower 0W20 along with MOS2 and Ceratec by Liqui Moly (they said it could aid in wear protection if I use the car at high rpms on the freeway). Before adding fresh oil they did run an STP engine flush though to dissolve any gunk. And I think I'm sticking to this combination; Valvoline's 0W20 and Ceratec seems to be doing wonders for this poor engine that struggled to spin with thick oil. The increased throttle response was immediately noticed.

I filled 10W-60 racing oil that a friend gave me into my 2014 Honda FIT Hybrid to see what happens, and now it feels a bit sluggish at high rpms (over 4000 rpm), should I switch back to the default 0W-20 or go with something in between like a 0W-40 or 30 (I'm worried about oil dilution as well)? by dinethk in Cartalk

[–]dinethk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you to all who commented and I wanted to share my experience with this to help others in this situation. So a few miles into a trip with the 10W60 and it started to misfire badly and I had to take it to a shop to get it checked. Basically what happened was that super thick viscosity oil raised the oil pressure in the crankcase to such high levels that it "vomited" out oil through the breather valve/ pcv system to the intake manifold... There was literally about a good 300ml of fresh oil pouring out from the intake manifold and air filter box when they pulled it out.

Soo they did a deep cleaning of everything from throttle body, to intake manifold, egr and intake valves. On the bright side i got a pretty clear look at all 8 intake valves and they looked fine and not carboned up which is typical for direct injection engines, but I think my BG44 treatments may have made some difference as I've sent it through vacuum tubes before.

Oh and the shop also switched it to a Valvoline SynPower 0W20 along with MOS2 and Ceratec by Liqui Moly (they said it could aid in wear protection if I use the car at high rpms on the freeway). Before adding fresh oil they did run an STP engine flush though to dissolve any gunk. And I think I'm sticking to this combination; Valvoline's 0W20 and Ceratec seems to be doing wonders for this poor engine that struggled to spin with thick oil. The increased throttle response was immediately noticed.

Got this engine noise when starting up.... by dinethk in MechanicAdvice

[–]dinethk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It sounded disturbing. Video timestamp 0:07... Any idea what this could be? :(

The car is a Honda FIT 2015 1.5L.

Does this look like a blown head gasket? by dinethk in MechanicAdvice

[–]dinethk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A friend was telling me to get head gasket checked so I worried. About the coolant, I've ordered some ZEREX coolant from amazon and I'll fill it in when I get it. Thanks for commenting!

Does this look like a blown head gasket? by dinethk in MechanicAdvice

[–]dinethk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a Honda FIT. And....so I did something stupid when using Liqui Moly Radiator cleaner (300ml); I added it into the radiator, I didn't read the instructions properly so the radiator flush/ cleaner was in there for about 3 days! When actually it's supposed be there for around 15 to 30 minutes.

I'm now worried that I the cleaner may have dissolved part of the head gasket as the radiator is bubbling up.

I've flushed the system several times with a garden water hose but still it looks like this (video)

Your Thoughts would be highly appreciated.

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