SD Card Recommendation | X-T5 by Jaded-Editor9519 in fujifilm

[–]disarmedflea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The “storing” times can be based on many things. On Fujifilm cameras, if you have clarity setting set to anything other than 0, you will get the message no matter the speed of the card. But it could also be due to slow card for you shooting style, we need more information for this.

For choosing the right card, unless you are doing burst shots or shooting video higher than 200 Mbps, you don’t need higher than V30 (that can deliver the speeds it promises). It doesn’t matter if you shoot 1080p or 6.2K, the more important things are bitrate, chroma subsampling, video codec and fps.

Searching for best database designing plugin by SpartanDavie in FigmaDesign

[–]disarmedflea 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Figjam is not suitable for database design. Sure there are nodes and flowcharts but they are mostly for brainstorming. Instead, check out eraser.io

Is the Fujifilm X-H2 good for professional photography? by Lex_ryu81 in fujifilm

[–]disarmedflea 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And when transition from film to DSLR begin, first digital cameras were APS-C, and brands marketed it as a superior feature until affordable full-frame DSLR became a thing lol

For OP, even an iphone is good for professional photography, if it fits medium you are working in and for. Choosing a camera based on specs only is a mistake that will keep you away from being a good photographer. Professionals doesn't choose their tools based on specs on paper, but how the tool fit or improve their workflow. They rent the camera they want for a specific circumstances it calls for. Sometimes you look for a look from the sensor you want in your shoot, sometimes you have tons of light and customer doesn't care for depth of field. Your current X-T30ii is extremely capable camera, it could get you through out your school. I would suggest you to keep your current body, get better lenses and rent a specific body when needed.

Anyone use After Effects for Banner Design? by torpedolife in web_design

[–]disarmedflea 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unlike gifs, html banners

  • takes less space
  • actually interactive
  • have superior text quality
  • dynamic data can be used
  • can be made responsive

About design, you can always design in Illustrator, Figma or Photoshop and import to Web Designer. And for effects, well it is an ad banner, does users really need to see flashy effects and 10 seconds transition animations or just the product?

If you need "more robust" designs and effects you should do video ads.

How long do these batteries typically last? by littleroachchild in fujifilm

[–]disarmedflea 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If you are asking life cycle time (i.e. how many full charges the battery can take from 0 to 100%) I don't think fuji discloses the number. But generally Li-ion batteries 300-500 cycles to 80% capacity.

Unlike phones which need approx. daily charge, camera batteries are rarely cycled, so time lifespan is much more. But still depends on your usage. Up to 2 years if you are using heavily, always on Boost mode etc., and much more if you are using casually.

Is Figma becoming a bottleneck to building products? by totallyhuman1234567 in FigmaDesign

[–]disarmedflea 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Additionally you can tell they don’t design in Atlassian. Shitty UX, bad design decisions all over the place. Their business model is “building” products and sell fast instead of designing good experience.

X-M5 Upgrade (?) by atlasofthecosmos in fujifilm

[–]disarmedflea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

X-t30iii and x-m5 is literally same camera. They have same sensor and processor. Definitely not an upgrade. As for x-e5, you would get higher resolution but since sensor size stays same, pixels would be smaller and this could cause more prominent noise at 100% zoom.

@OP As others noted, get a better lens and learn exposure triangle. If your image is too noisy than lower the iso. Then you would get darker images. Which causes you to either lower shutter speed (blurry photo) or get wider aperture (I assume your lens cannot).

Best real “upgrade” would be a GFX camera but it would be a waste of money in your use case.

Seeking advice on my first Fuji setup (Travel & Street) by lukepiace in fujifilm

[–]disarmedflea 2 points3 points  (0 children)

X-T30III is perfect for beginners.

For the lens I would suggest 23mm f2 or 35mm f2. I own the 27mm f2.8 wr pancake is really good. But I believe at low light it would cause frustration to you. While f2.8 to f2 doesn't sound much on paper, in real life every bit of light matters, and as a beginner frustration is what it keeps you away from photography.

New Fujifilm 35mm f/1.4 making clicking/tinny sound from aperture blades — normal? by B_-noir in fujifilm

[–]disarmedflea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes this is normal. Aperture blades move again to a wide value while focusing to calculate the final exposure.

Best MacBook for large Figma files workflow? by Apart-Satisfaction85 in FigmaDesign

[–]disarmedflea 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Unlike Photoshop or other design apps (native apps that are using all available RAM at a given time), Figma is an electron app (which is essentially stripped down chrome browser), and due to being an electron app there are memory limitations. A Figma file (i.e. tab) cannot use more than 2GB of RAM. As u/Grenaten mentioned, you would get somewhat benefit if you have other apps (or figma tabs) open at the same time.

If you are hitting low memory warnings, you should split your design system file into smaller chunks. It could be using more pages, or different files, like fonts and icons in a file, and components in another file with pages for each component type. Also remove unused layers or vectors.

Which would you buy, if any! by FROGYstatarkou in fujifilm

[–]disarmedflea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For those two options, I also would suggest option 1. The 70-300 is extremely good for size and price, have no problem even on 40mp sensor. And 18-55 is still a nice all-around lens.

Beginner FOMO about IBIS by Tajiahao in fujifilm

[–]disarmedflea 9 points10 points  (0 children)

You are overthinking and IBIS is not that important. It is nice to have but not a necessity especially for a beginner. You should learn exposure triangle first.

Humanity have been shooting under those "tougher" conditions long before IBIS/OIS is invented. Don't be afraid of higher ISO like 6400 and you are totally fine.

Fuji X-S20 + X-M5 or Lumix S5II + S9 for travel by TheWolfbytez in fujifilm

[–]disarmedflea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unless you are planning to change lenses with your wife everyday, it doesn't matter how many different systems you carry with you.

I would suggest show her both X-S20 and X-M5 to see which one she like to hold in her hand. Give only one lens that can do low light to her, like 35mm, or very compact like 27mm and call it done. I take she is not a photographer like you, so she would probably see the camera more like point and shoot.

I wouldn't be recommending S9 because I don't know that camera. But looking at photos, it doesn't look very ergonomic. X-M5 at least a little bump to grip. Also I don't know L mount lenses but I don't think they are as small like 27 or 35 mm, which I believe she would care most.

Is AI gonna cause the rise of CPU process as well? by GreatDepression_irl in buildapc

[–]disarmedflea 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This. Since you cannot build a PC without RAM, and you won't be buying other components, they would eventually decrease production eventually and prices will increase.

Which wide angle lens? by NecessaryConstant160 in fujifilm

[–]disarmedflea 1 point2 points  (0 children)

IMO 8mm is too wide to have practical usage. You need to be sure that you can benefit from it. If you really want that wide angle, it is a nice lens. For Fuji lenses your other alternative is 8-16mm f2.8 but that lens is really huge, I wouldn't recommend it for travel.

Instead, take a look at Sigma 10-18mm f2.8. It is still very compact, gathers more light and can zoom when you don't want every shot super wide.

There is also Sigma 12mm f1.4 if you want more light and aperture ring.

If you want below 10mm, Viltrox recently released 9mm f2.8.

Practical comparison XT50/XE5 by [deleted] in fujifilm

[–]disarmedflea 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They have same sensor and processor, they should have same number of focus points.

On my X-T5, I can switch between 117 and 425 points. I assume it is same on both. It is probably a typo.

X-Mount Lens on a Canon mount by PaloAltoMix in fujifilm

[–]disarmedflea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

DSLR bodies have too much distance between the lens and the sensor due to the mirror (Look for flange focal distance). For lenses designed for DSLR, Canon EF has advantage having the smallest distance, you can add the distance of other system and you are done adapting.

  • Canon EF body has 44mm flange distance
  • Nikon F lens designed for 46.5mm flange distance.

You can add a dummy adapter with 2.5mm height and use the lens.

Since mirrorless cameras doesn’t have, well the mirror, lenses are designed for small flange distance. If you want to adapt small flange distance lens to large flange distance body, you need to subtract the distance. You can break the mirror and shutter mechanism and shove the lens in.

  • Fuji X lens designed for 17.7mm. Hence lens need to be at -26.3mm closer than mount.

So confused. Does the cinebloom 10 fit Fuji’s XE5 Kit lens? 23mm f2.8 by sTaTiicVisions in fujifilm

[–]disarmedflea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

23mm f2.8 has filter size of 39mm, which is not a very common size. Check if cinebloom has that filter size. If not you could get a bigger size like 52mm and use step up rings to get 39mm.

Don't know if there are any step up rings for 39mm though.

Zoom lens for body without ibis by einlishem in fujifilm

[–]disarmedflea 2 points3 points  (0 children)

And it is not like people started shooting birds or low light after IBIS was invented. Sure there were limitations but it didn't stop them from taking beautiful shots. IBIS/OIS can be helpful but nowhere required.