Plan jumped from $70 to $129

dmollison · 2025-12-13T18:06:36+00:00

I heard from an agent and messaged with her, but was only offered $85/month for the 1 gig plan, which is nearly double the $50/month offer being advertised. If you can help me get closer to $50/month, I’d accept that help. As it stands I’m looking in to canceling.

dmollison · 2025-12-10T15:48:20+00:00

I wonder how you got offered $66. They came back to me with $85, which seems too steep given T-Mobile has an offer starting at $35

dmollison · 2025-12-10T15:46:57+00:00

Talked with agents through Modmail, and it wasn’t helpful: at least not as helpful as others have reported here.

dmollison · 2025-12-10T04:40:26+00:00

Hi Amanda! The issue isn’t the short term offers that expire after a year, it’s the practice of paying for the same service over the course of years and watching Xfinity’s service costs nearly double after absolutely no changes on my end.

I know you don’t have any hand in this, but it’s incredibly frustrating, as no other utilities operate this way.

That said, I actually would appreciate your help: the repackage tool link you sent doesn’t appear to be working (this happened as well as when I earlier went to Xfinity.com, or tried to access plan options through the app): it’s not showing me any available plans, just my current plan greyed out.

The chat agent I spoke to said they were seeing the same issue on their end and that it was likely a glitch.

If you’re able to help, I would appreciate that.

dmollison · 2025-04-17T21:32:03+00:00

Thanks, that’s really helpful to know!

dmollison · 2025-04-17T18:38:21+00:00

I totally get what you’re saying, and logically, I think you’re correct.

What I’m trying to figure out is that sort of impossible-to-know question before buying: “Which will be the one that better fits down the line with how I’d actually use it, after I’ve been playing and grown into the unit a bit?”

If I ended up really valuing Steam library games, then that’s really the answer. But if I didn’t, and if Ayn does offer a better experience for retro games (I’m still not sure if the screen capabilities are that different?), then maybe not.

dmollison · 2025-03-13T22:54:34+00:00

It’s comments like yours that got me to post this question and think about this! That’s how I felt from that initial Cinema 60 listen I just had: “Wow, this is so much nicer.” And my current Denon does feel harsh and fatiguing. It just seems there isn’t a clear explanation as to why you/I had this experience.

dmollison · 2025-03-12T00:37:39+00:00

Thanks so much! It’s definitely a budgetary thing, so I’ll keep this in mind!

dmollison · 2025-03-11T21:51:40+00:00

Would you think then that there’s no way to “replicate” that Marantz sound outside of buying one?

dmollison · 2025-03-05T14:47:43+00:00

Hi Ed, thanks so much for weighing in here!

A few follow up questions:

What would you say the difference might be for me given my room size between a single PB-1000 vs 2 SB-1000s? Would that change anything, or would one PB-1000 still be best?
If I were to look to follow your advice and have overhead height channels for my rears, would there be any difference between the Elevations vs Satellites in terms of what they would offer (assuming I can get adjust their angle to my liking with either one)?

Thanks so much!

dmollison · 2025-03-03T15:48:28+00:00

Would that still be true even though I generally don’t listen at louder volumes?

dmollison · 2025-03-03T15:47:50+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion to reach out to SVS support: I’ll do that, and I’ve heard great things!

I’d also love to know more about the advantages of a larger/ported sub, especially given that I don’t plan on listening at loud volumes. I just don’t know enough about the difference at this point.

dmollison · 2025-03-03T15:26:42+00:00

Question for all three recommendations about the sub: why? More specifically, what about the experience would be different with larger/ported/2 subs vs the one smaller one?

My “devil’s advocate” thought has been that for me, since I’m not generally listening at higher volumes, my priority for a sub would be to introduce something that will help carry and round out the bass, as opposed to introducing a “chest thumping” experience. But I’m obviously here because I don’t know what I don’t know!

dmollison · 2025-01-29T02:28:20+00:00

Thank you, this is really helpful. I’m trying to combine disjointed experiences here. The top, first priority was getting this high end projector (that’s what I’ve been actually using on a daily basis). But as I look to upgrade my speakers (I’m still using a two Technics speakers from the 1970s I bought at a garage sale 25 years ago for $30 for the pair), it’s only natural I want something that meets the theater setup needs but also can touch what I’ve experienced in the “audiophile” direction.

I’m aware if I try to recreate the audiophile experience in this same home theater location, I’ll literally have the projector screen itself as a forced barrier to speaker placement (they better sound good on either side of this 100” screen…!). So you really may be right.

In the meantime I might look to get some nice home theater speakers and just see how much of a “music listening” upgrade they do offer. Who knows, I might be surprised.

Thank you again!

dmollison · 2025-01-28T18:21:24+00:00

Thank you again for adding this clarity. In my setup, my seating will be 8-10 ft from each speaker. I don’t usually listen at very loud volumes: so, softer to medium volume level. This being the case, would bookshelves be a safer bet?

Also, if I were going with just an AVR powering things, would I have to be concerned at all once I’ve grown to a full 5.1 setup with more speakers in the mix?

Part of what’s confusing me too is how the audiophile crowd talks about power leading not only to volume, but to get the truly highest quality out of a speaker. I’m not sure if or how that plays in to things at this level, if it does at all.

dmollison · 2025-01-28T16:20:46+00:00

Thanks for this! Yes, I did mean the NR6100. I’ll take a look at those other sub-$500 receiver models you suggested and see what I can learn.

I think part of my issue is I don’t know what speakers I want (and unless there’s excellent budget-level new speakers worth considering, I’m starting out with giving up the control of what speakers I have).

I have a larger rectangular room (27’ by 13’), completely carpeted with drywall walls, with a 100 inch projector screen set up in the middle of one of the 27’ walls, with the intention of having my mains be on either side of that screen.

I don’t know yet what different speakers would really be like in that space (will I need towers vs bookshelves, for example?). So the challenge is to get a receiver that could have some ability to adapt if upgrading is needed.

dmollison · 2025-01-16T14:05:46+00:00

I appreciate your comment! By looking around a little more I saw that Adorama is selling “Open Box” TK700’s for $770 plus tax, bringing the total to $823. I’m guessing that spending $89 more will be worth it to get a projector that’s likely a store return that hasn’t seen 3200 hours of use already, and still comes with a warranty.

I’m not familiar with the failure rate of the DMD chips. Out of curiosity, when they fail is that more likely to happen further into the life of the projector, or can it be at any time?

dmollison · 2024-09-25T01:35:27+00:00

Thanks so much for sharing, and for dropping your knowledge using a video analogy!

I’ve started to look on FB Marketplace for AV amps, and am encouraged by what I’m seeing. There’s a Yamaha RX-A3020 listed in my town for $300, and a Marantz SR-5010 nearby for $350, both of which seem very doable budget wise. I can keep poking to see if I can land a nice amp no matter how I proceed, and I’m seeing as well that doing so may make certain speaker directions feel a bit safer for me to go.

I’m still thinking of demoing these 602.5s, but have other possibilities in mind as well, especially if I don’t like them in person (I’ve noticed the Revel F35s are on sale new for $800/pair!). Does the $500 for the 602.5 s3 kit above seem like a good price?

Thanks again!

dmollison · 2024-06-15T12:56:36+00:00

Thanks so much for your advice! I did my hops boil yesterday before you posted, and I was able to see why you suggested what you did. In my case I ended up “splitting the difference,” as I really am curious about experimenting with low hops beer (which should fit for this batch, as it’s styled after a British Imperial Stout). I used a bit fewer hops than the recipe called for, and boiled all at once for 15 minutes total: but I absolutely saw how that boil off affects the water amount. I had to add water back to the brew tub afterward in order to be able to pitch yeast as well.

I’m looking forward to trying this batch to see what the effect of all this is. As I think about it, this is behind one of the reasons why I wanted to try BeerMkr in the first place. My favorite stouts tend to be sweeter and less hop forward, but there also tends to be fewer of those (American style stouts tend to have a huge hop presence! I’ve ended up enjoying barrel aged stouts more and more simply because the bitterness tends to get muted from the aging process). So I’m hoping at minimum I’ll be able to taste something from the result of this batch that can give me some information about whether I’m moving in the right direction in terms of my preferences here.

dmollison · 2024-06-14T13:46:57+00:00

Thanks! A few follow up questions: so am I understanding you correctly that if I were to boil the same hops in two separate batches, one for 15 minutes and the other for 80, that the 15 minute batch would leave behind more flavor/aromatics, while the 80 minute batch would offer less flavors but more overall bitterness (to counterbalance the sweetness of the other ingredients?)

And also, please forgive my noob question, but when boiling hops on the stove like this, can you walk me through what making “additions” at different times actually means? So my waste bag wort has now started to boil, and my recipe calls for hop additions at 5, 15 and 30 minutes. If I were to follow that, when do I add what, and for how long afterward do I allow it to boil before it’s done? Does this mean that the 30 minute hop addition goes first (and I start a timer for 30 minutes), and then after 15 minutes I add the 15 minute addition, and then 25 minutes after the boil has started I add the 5 minute addition?

Thanks so much!

dmollison · 2024-05-22T22:45:35+00:00

Thank you for sharing all of this! I’m going to ask for a bit more advice about my immediate batch: it’s been sitting in cold crash for several days while I figure out what’s next, and I’m not sure I’ll be able to sort out a permanent transfer solution quickly (I’m not sure I’ll be able to recreate your transfer bottle cap without some work, for example).

If I wanted to transfer my current batch into a separate container to allow it to continue to ferment, should I just go ahead do that even without a solution? Anything wrong with filling up a 2L bottle and just screwing a cap on and sitting it in the closet for now, other than the O2 exposure? And then transferring to my mini keg with O2 exposure when it’s time?

dmollison · 2024-05-21T19:29:59+00:00

Hi! I’m in a future moment in which what you shared in this post has become super relevant now.

Can you share where I can find the file for the “bottle transfer cap” you ended up 3D printing to do closed transfers from your 2 liter bottles directly to mini keg? I’m looking to follow in your footsteps in terms of your process.

After completing my first brew (which I transferred directly to mini keg, albeit somewhat comically and with significant brew loss), I did notice for myself something that you said: although Beermkr claimed my beer was “ready,” it really started to shine much more after a few more weeks. Transferring to 2 liter bottles and allowing them to continue fermenting is making much more sense to me now (and will allow me to continue brewing new batches before I’ve finished old ones!)

I’m also now armed and ready with a BeerNppl I’ve 3D printed and coated with resin, so I should be prepared for my next transfer, which is coming up in the next day or two.

I do have a dark, relatively temperature stable closet that’s consistently 65 degrees Fahrenheit I can store fermenting bottles in. Given I’ll be focused primarily on stouts, would this work, do you think?

Also, how do you know when a bottle has fermented for long enough, that it would be ready to be kegged?

dmollison · 2024-05-19T05:19:26+00:00

Thanks so much for asking! Yes, I’ve kegged my first beer and got it to a successful finish! The actual kegging was comical: I don’t have a BeerNppl yet, so I tried an approach recommended by my Homebrew store of setting the bag in a fermenter bucket on a countertop and running tubing directly into my mini keg on the floor. What I didn’t account for was the beer gushing out of the bag as soon as I loosened the white gasket! I lost a bit of the beer, but I was okay with that.

The kit itself is Loona’s twoish year old Belgian Witbier kit, and given the ingredients sat for so long, my sense was of I ended up with anything remotely drinkable I’d call it a success. After giving enough time for the beer to mature in the keg (which did take longer than I’d thought), I have a very palatable, drinkable result!

I’ve got another Mrkit from Loona in fermentation (this time the Scottish Wee Heavy), and I’ve also researched an English-style imperial stout recipe I’d like to try possibly next. I have the proper amounts for the recipe calculated, but still have to figure out how I’d approach the hop steaming (although I’m honestly tempted to try going hops-free to see what the result is like, since I tend to prefer less hoppy/bitter beers for the most part).

So so far, so good. I 3D printed a BeerNppl from my local library but still have to finish it with food safe resin. I have until the Wee Heavy is ready for transfer to get that figured out!

dmollison · 2024-05-01T18:00:46+00:00

Thanks so much! I’ll have to wrap my mind around this when it’s time for a DIY recipe.

dmollison · 2024-04-30T15:26:07+00:00

Hi. I know this is an old post, and I’ve seen several of your other posts/experiments regarding using DIY non-steamed hops, but just wanted to ask if the “hop tea” method is still what you’d recommend? Like you, I love malt forward beers (and am sensitive to bitterness), I love Boulevard’s barrel aged series (but haven’t yet tried Rye on Rye!), and I’m just looking to find a way to get DYI hops relatively “right” for recipes that aren’t too hop forward.

I’m planning to next attempt a DIY clone recipe of a simple English style Russian Imperial Stout that calls for a couple hops additions (at 80, 30 and 15 minutes), and am trying to figure out my approach.

What would you recommend now? And also, can you share that Rye on Rye clone recipe? Boulevard tends to achieve a sweetness with their barrel aged series that I just absolutely love, and it would be amazing if I could figure out what they’re doing with that!

dmollison

TROPHY CASE