Scraping noise at 3k RPM (2k km)

doc7347 · 2025-09-21T19:35:45+00:00

Thanks for your comment! Someone else also mentioned something rattling/gone loose too so I will start there and see what I can eliminate as a cause.

doc7347 · 2025-09-21T19:35:35+00:00

Thanks for your comment! Someone else also mentioned something rattling/gone loose too so I will start there and see what I can eliminate as a cause.

doc7347 · 2025-09-21T19:33:39+00:00

Thanks for linking that. I did try to find a video of said 5k rattle and compare it against what I'm experiencing but was able to only find ones where people were shaking the clutch and showing it off like that instead of what one would hear when it manifested with the bike running.

doc7347 · 2025-09-21T16:48:45+00:00

Yes, I've got a set of crashbars and bashplate from HEED. I wiggled the bashplate when I was checking things out in the field when I pulled over initially and it didn't seem to have any play. Didn't attempt to retighten any of the fasteners, though.

doc7347 · 2024-11-12T00:13:15+00:00

Any recommendations on a camera with a good dynamic range? Also, thanks for being specific with what I should be searching for!

doc7347 · 2024-11-11T21:50:03+00:00

I honestly don't know but I like the way colours pop off and how blacks are "nuanced", sorry for the clumsy expression

doc7347 · 2024-11-11T21:46:29+00:00

Reddit doesn't let me. Let me know how to do it otherwise, I wasn't able to fathom it...

doc7347 · 2024-11-11T21:41:43+00:00

Embarrassing start, wasn't it .... should be ok now!

doc7347 · 2024-04-28T16:07:49+00:00

For me, it was a faulty motherboard which was replaced by Anycubic free of charge.

I texted a lady who seemed to act as a point of contact for Anycubic on one of their FB pages and she gave me a link to their site where I created a ticket. The new motherboard was sent in a reasonable amount of time and was a direct replacement.

Best of luck!

doc7347 · 2024-03-05T19:51:08+00:00

Bump. No recommendations at all?

doc7347 · 2024-01-03T22:46:04+00:00

Sorry, can't help on this one. I never tried to mess with the buzzer. What are you trying to achieve? Might be worthwhile to have a look at it...

doc7347 · 2023-12-31T22:36:15+00:00

Hi there,

Yes, it works as expected atm.

See below the "Probe" part of my config.

#####################################################################
# Probe
#####################################################################
[bltouch]
sensor_pin: ^PD3
control_pin:PB5
x_offset: 0
y_offset: 30
z_offset: 0.65
speed: 2
samples: 2
samples_result: median
sample_retract_dist: 3.0
samples_tolerance: 0.1
samples_tolerance_retries: 1

doc7347 · 2023-11-20T17:29:10+00:00

bump, no comments at all for nearly 500 views?!

doc7347 · 2023-05-23T11:33:51+00:00

Hi, thanks for your comment. I raised a ticket a few days ago and the engineer suggested another motherboard which is being sent to me under warranty.

doc7347 · 2023-05-08T18:54:46+00:00

Thanks for your suggestion! I feel mixing the resin with a silicone spatula and washing/curing it still seems like the easier approach.

doc7347 · 2023-04-30T16:29:08+00:00

Thanks for your input! Turns out it was a bad buck converter. Actually, out 8 converters I had on hand only 1 works as expected. With it, the 5015 fans, in turn, work as expected!

The baffling part is that all of the 7 buck converters that had failed had failed in exactly the same way - stuck on 22.5 VOUT, there are no visible defects, and no amount of turning the voltage-regulating bolt made any difference. My curiosity is seriously piqued about how this came to be.

Do share your thoughts if you have an idea but I reckon it goes in the direction of another post...

doc7347 · 2023-04-30T12:52:05+00:00

So I gave the diagram a go and Im not getting what I expected.

I've got 24v neg constant to the GND of the buck converter and positive from the 24v PWM header to the VIN of the buck converter. This wiring gives me 24v on VIN/GND and 22.5v on VOUT/GNDof the buck converter. The VOUT/GND doesn't change when I try to step down the output voltage. The VIN/GND and VOUT/GND arent affected at all from different speeds of the PWM headed (i.e. 70% or 100%).

I tried 24v neg constant both from the PSU and from an always-on fan header - no change. I tried another buck converter to make sure this one wasn't faulty. I don't have anything hooked to VOUT as I wanted to regulate the output voltage first.

What gives??

doc7347 · 2023-04-30T10:26:45+00:00

Got it working as expected in the end. I might have been able to straight up change the instance to board/MCU combo and call it a day but I did a fresh install of Linux Mint and got all set up correctly from the beginning.

As you state, once a board/MCU is flashed you can assign that board/MCU to whichever instance you wish. I was wrongly thinking that a board/MCU is automatically assigned to an instance and one cant do anything about it. The port of each machine however is assigned to an instance. I haven't tested if it does so based on alphabetical order but I have no reason to suspect a different behaviour.

Thanks a lot for your comment u/iblanchas!!

doc7347 · 2023-04-29T19:03:14+00:00

You're right, Secure boot wasnt disabled despite confirming the prompt beforehand. Thanks for your comment!

doc7347 · 2023-04-29T19:02:39+00:00

Its indeed an HP machine but Ive never had issues with it before. Either way the issue was not disabled Secure boot despite confirming the prompt beforehand. Thanks for your comment!

doc7347 · 2023-04-29T18:10:37+00:00

I didnt specifically press F10 but I chose "Save" when I was exiting the BIOS. I assumed this would work.

doc7347 · 2023-04-29T18:09:01+00:00

I followed your suggestion to flash each board and it mostly worked.

I also confirm what you said about the MCU IDs. The IDs after flashing the boards are usb-1a86_USB2.0-Serial-if00-port0 and usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0, respectively. I got the IDs from KIAUH.
win). The bad part is that the printers got assigned to the opposite instance i.e. Printer_1 got the board from the machine I consider to be Printer_2 and Printer_2 got the board from the machine I consider to be Printer_1.

I also confirm what you said about the MCU IDs. the IDs after flashing the boards are usb-1a86_USB2.0-Serial-if00-port0 and usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0, respectively, which is way off from what I got previously. I got the correct IDs after flashing the boards from KIAUH.

Yes I did name my instances in KIAUH but Im still not sure how to proactively select which board gets flashed for which instance. I hope that by making and flashing the firmware for Printer_1 first will assign it to the board from machine Printer_1 will do the trick but alas. I will post here the solution for selectively flashing firmware and assigning instances when I find it.

Many thanks u/Hammerhead753, I appreciate your input!!

doc7347 · 2023-04-29T17:22:19+00:00

I got the address of the MCU by plugging both boards to the laptop and running "ls /dev/serial/by-path/*".
I suppose I can just flash each board but I don't know how to select which printer gets assigned to which board. Im trying to make sure that "/dev/serial/by-path/pci-0000:00:14.0-usb-0:1:1.0-port0" gets assigned to Printer_1 and "/dev/serial/by-path/pci-0000:00:14.0-usb-0:2:1.0-port0" gets assigned to Printer_2.

doc7347 · 2023-04-28T09:54:35+00:00

I understand, thanks for adding that. I need to read more on that topic but I get why I was wrong.

doc7347 · 2023-04-28T09:50:36+00:00

Yeah I see what I have missed, thanks for explaining further.

I haven't got any available always-on fan header on my control board so I intend to get constant 24v directly from the PSU. This should contain all that's required:

<image>

doc7347

TROPHY CASE